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Unread 10-05-2013, 07:40 AM   #16
blsjeep
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Springfield, PA
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Had the same problem a while back. Fortunately I have a set of these in the tool box for these instances. I little pricey from Snap-on but you can get something similar from Harbor Freight for a fraction of the price.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

110stsy.jpg

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Unread 10-05-2013, 07:50 AM   #17
blsjeep
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After you get them off invest in a good set of lugs nuts. The factory ones are junk. Gorilla lug nuts are the way to go...

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92806_900X_PG.htm
screen-shot-2013-10-05-8.49.54-am.png

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Unread 10-06-2013, 08:05 AM   #18
mountaintracker
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I fell for some local autoparts store locking lug nuts once and ran into this issue. Pounding on a socket and PB blaster did well, although I did also invest in a removal kit later on. May I also suggest that you get a dead blow if you decide to do any pounding on your tire. A little overzealous and it is quite easy to mark up your wheels.
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Unread 10-06-2013, 10:13 AM   #19
its-me-B
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Originally Posted by blsjeep View Post
Had the same problem a while back. Fortunately I have a set of these in the tool box for these instances. I little pricey from Snap-on but you can get something similar from Harbor Freight for a fraction of the price.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
I use this same set at work all most daily... yesterday I used it to check the trans fluid in a bmw where the owner stripped check plug, And to remove the stripped lugs off a 300c that owner had rounded them so bad it had amazed guys who have been there for 20+ years.
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Unread 10-06-2013, 03:34 PM   #20
4x4fvr
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Usually happens when someone is using an impact gun putting the lugs back on. I had to drill out three to get them off. Popped in some new studs from oReiley with new lug nuts only use a tire iron.
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Unread 10-06-2013, 03:49 PM   #21
Darnice
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Day one when I buy a new car, I remove every lugnut and put anti seize on the stud threds and the wheel face where the lugnut contacts the wheel. They torque perfectly and won't ever get stuck.
When changing brake rotors, apply anti seize to the hub flange and the hub centric area. You will never need mallets of heat, or anything to service the car.
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Unread 10-06-2013, 04:43 PM   #22
alfaitalia
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Originally Posted by Darnice View Post
Day one when I buy a new car, I remove every lugnut and put anti seize on the stud threds and the wheel face where the lugnut contacts the wheel. They torque perfectly and won't ever get stuck.
When changing brake rotors, apply anti seize to the hub flange and the hub centric area. You will never need mallets of heat, or anything to service the car.
You should not need to do any of that if you know how to use a torque wrench correctly. The lug nuts don't magically seize on......they are just over tightened in the first place. I never use anti seize and have never had an issue getting wheels off my cars. I feel anti seize on something as critical as lug nuts won't help them stay on. Since I use 1.5 inch spacers, I go the other way and use red (permanent) thread lock on the spacer nuts and blue on the wheel nuts to eliminate the risk of them vibrating loose on bumpier trails. Each to their own I guess!

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Unread 10-06-2013, 06:52 PM   #23
Darnice
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Originally Posted by alfaitalia View Post
You should not need to do any of that if you know how to use a torque wrench correctly. The lug nuts don't magically seize on......they are just over tightened in the first place. I never use anti seize and have never had an issue getting wheels off my cars. I feel anti seize on something as critical as lug nuts won't help them stay on. Since I use 1.5 inch spacers, I go the other way and use red (permanent) thread lock on the spacer nuts and blue on the wheel nuts to eliminate the risk of them vibrating loose on bumpier trails. Each to their own I guess!

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I know how to use a torque wrench. See here they dump tons of salt on the roads in the winter. Brake disc will rust solid to the hubs, the lugnuts will actually chemically react with the aluminium rims and seize to the wheel.

I never use an impact wrench to install lugnuts, always stage tightened. Also, using this method, in driving over a million miles, I have never ever warped a brake rotor. You also get a truer torque, no squeak when tightening. No lug but tightened to the correct torque will ever come loose on its own using this method, so no locktite is needed.
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Unread 11-12-2013, 01:27 PM   #24
TontoKowalski
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As a follow up...I drove around on these for a few weeks, then found a good deal on A/T tires through PepBoys...so I figured if I get new tires I'd let the PepBoy fellas get them out. Well, they did and didn't charge me any extra for extraction or for the replacement lugs off of the shelf.

Funny that only 2 of the lugs on the rear wheels had this problem, one on each side...

Check these mangled things out:


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Unread 11-12-2013, 01:57 PM   #25
KayCeeJeep
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I had to go to a tire place to get six of mine off. One of them looked like yours, they almost didn't get it.

Great feeling when they are all replaced!
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