I am planning on replacing the front upper/lower control arms. I have been doing research on the forum about this matter. When putting new arm to the axle, some say that the axle will be misaligned and will need ratchet strap and floor jack to align them up. My question is that if I have one pair of jack stands on the frame and another pair on the axle. Would that prevent the axle from misalignment? I know that I have to replace one arm at a time.
Not necessarily, but that's about as good as you'll be able to do. The bolt hole only has to be off by a fraction of an inch to cause you to have to wrestle it around while trying to get the bolt back in the hole.
I've done it on a ZJ with the same setup....it's not hard, but might take some muscle or a strap.
If you do one at a time, the axle shouldn't move at all. Ive been removing mine about twice a week for the last few weeks trying to dial in my caster. Which actually involves intentionally moving the axle. Its not hard at all. And if you are just simply replacing them and not changing your caster or anything, just remove one, adjust the new one to the same length and bolt it back up. Simple as that. Just dont torque them down until all 4 are done. Oh, dont raise the jeep at all. Itll be much easier with no tension on the bolts if the jeep is on the ground.
2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, 3" exhaust, Magnaflow hi-flow cat, Flowmaster 50 series
I have full stock WJ 4.7 limited with Quadratrac. I dont see how to replace the upper arm without raising the jeep. I would imagine it is really tight down there if not jacking it up. I am appreciated for all your suggestions.
If you need to jack, try jacking under the axle so the position of the CA stays the same relative to the chassis. I used a small bottle jack under the coil spring bracket to rotate the axle a little bit (my CA bushes were so worn out the axle wasn't properly aligned in any case) All and all it wasn't a lot of work.
If you do 1 at a time you shouldn't have a problem with miss alignment.
2001 WJ 4.7 V8 Ltd QD. 2" Rough Country BB, TF QD's, Rough Country shocks, BDS Adjustable front UCA's, RC 2.2 steering damper, 245-70R17 Firestone Destination muds/ 245-75R17 Wrangler A/T's on Moab's, Flat Land non-winch steel bumper, rear sway bar removed, Power Brake matched disc and pad set. More to come!
Since I was replacing spring isolators, I already had the front of the frame up on jack stands, and both front wheels removed. The front axle was 'hanging', but had it on low jack stands to support its weight. With the axle suspended, I had just enough room to removed the UCA front bolts, and pop out and replace the axle bushings (what a *****!).
Did one at a time. The new arms lined up almost perfectly. I guess I lucked out on that aspect, at least.