post #16 of Old 12-29-2010, 02:26 PM
00JGC00
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I contacted a dealership about the torque specs for that front output yoke nut and he said his book wasn't very clear about which nut it was referring to, but from what he could tell it was 23.5 lbs. I checked my Haynes manual and found the exact same thing. 23 pounds on a drive shaft yoke nut!? Does anyone else think that sounds crazy??


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post #17 of Old 12-29-2010, 02:28 PM
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I read on the forum somewhere that it is around 110 pounds.

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post #18 of Old 12-29-2010, 02:30 PM
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110 I can believe! But 23?? I just don't know why I can't find a definitive answer anywhere. I'm going to be doing the conversion on Friday and am tempted to just do 100-110 lbs and call it a day...

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post #19 of Old 12-29-2010, 02:37 PM
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well i dont own a torque wrench.i use a 1/2 drive rachet and a 2 ft pipe lol.never have had any trouble

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post #20 of Old 12-29-2010, 02:37 PM
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It's a shot in the dark, but could it have been referring to the bolts that are used around the u-joints? That connect the u-joints to the yokes? Does it say what the torque specs are for that?

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post #21 of Old 12-29-2010, 02:53 PM
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I thought that as well, but i think it said those were 16 pounds. Maybe tonight when I get home I'll actually post the page out of the Haynes manual so you all can see it.

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post #22 of Old 12-29-2010, 03:48 PM
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There's no crush sleeve on the front yoke, so its not as critical as say, the pinion nut. I made mine tight (not uber tight), but to no specific torque measurement.

Yes, the ujoint straps (or ubolts) are very minimal torque. I recalled 13 ft/lbs, but 16 could be correct. Either way, do not overtighten those or you will deform your ujoint. 13/16 ft/lbs is next to nothing.

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post #23 of Old 12-29-2010, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skain8 View Post
There's no crush sleeve on the front yoke, so its not as critical as say, the pinion nut. I made mine tight (not uber tight), but to no specific torque measurement.

Yes, the ujoint straps (or ubolts) are very minimal torque. I recalled 13 ft/lbs, but 16 could be correct. Either way, do not overtighten those or you will deform your ujoint. 13/16 ft/lbs is next to nothing.
Are you referring to the yoke on the t-case or the yoke on the Dana 30? I was under the impression that the 30 had a crush sleeve. Even if it didn't, you still don't want to torque the **** out of the pinion bearings.

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post #24 of Old 12-29-2010, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefightinwj View Post
are you referring to the yoke on the t-case or the yoke on the dana 30?
^ x2

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post #25 of Old 12-30-2010, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirefightinWJ View Post
Are you referring to the yoke on the t-case or the yoke on the Dana 30? I was under the impression that the 30 had a crush sleeve. Even if it didn't, you still don't want to torque the **** out of the pinion bearings.
Front output yoke. C'mon guys, what do you take me for, a newb?

I advocate proper torque settings on the front pinion nut. Front output yoke nut not so much.

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post #26 of Old 12-30-2010, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by skain8 View Post
Front output yoke. C'mon guys, what do you take me for, a newb?

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post #27 of Old 01-03-2011, 01:03 AM
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This is info from the FSM for dubs 99-01. It is in reference for torquing the pinion nut (D30) and flange nut (NV247). There is no specified amount of torque in the FSM for the pinion nut... believe me, I scoured it! Here are my screen shots of the FSM. I hope this clarifies a few things for anyone who needs it.

For the HPD30


And the NV247

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post #28 of Old 01-03-2011, 09:35 AM
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Any update on this being installed?

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post #29 of Old 01-03-2011, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
DaveRous
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It does go in as expected, but I still ended up with vibrations. Pulled it back out and am probably going to have a local shop build me one with a warranty
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post #30 of Old 01-03-2011, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveRous View Post
It does go in as expected, but I still ended up with vibrations. Pulled it back out and am probably going to have a local shop build me one with a warranty
Did you adjust your pinion angle? It that is the problem and not the shaft then you'll end up buying a new shaft and still having vibrations and needing to adjust your pinion.

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