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Unread 11-28-2010, 05:10 PM   #1
DaveRous
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Front drive shaft conversion question

So I've been looking into it for a bit now, and I've found all of the set ups for converting to a u-joint style through tom woods and carolina, but had a question still. I've got access to several parts jeeps, some with a double u-joint set up. I'm at 4.5" of lift and keep eating up my double CV style, with access to the complete parts WJ, can I swap over one of the stock double u-joint shafts with the parts available? I don't want to change out my front axle.

I have a 99 with 4.7, quadra-drive, 247 TC, 4.5" of lift. I just needed a straight answer from anyone that's done it or knows about it, since it would save me a few hundred bucks compared to buying a new set up. Thanks!

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Unread 11-28-2010, 09:29 PM   #2
outlaw30
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if your parts jeep has the double u-joint shaft, the swap is a bit of a pain, but will bolt right on to your jeep (it has to be a V-8 parts jeep, or the length will be wrong). The pain part isn't bad, but you have to remove the yokes from the TC and axle side of the parts jeep and transfer to your jeep. You take the risk that the parts jeep shaft is worn out too. Best and simplest option (a few more bucks, but peace of mind): buy a Carolina DS with the CV adapters already built-in. Its a simple bolt on to your yokes, no need to change anything else.
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Unread 11-28-2010, 09:42 PM   #3
AustinTexasXJ
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I used a drive shaft from an 02 WJ with a 4.7 and a np242 TC, I then ordered a new yoke from a local drive train place or IRO has one forsale, then I got a used yoke off a D30 at a local jeep shop.

all in all it cost me about 200 bucks.
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Unread 11-28-2010, 10:04 PM   #4
moparwj
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i got the full yoke conversion from carolina considering i live 20 miles from them and its been great i would get it before anything else. the non yoke conversion is easier to install but it is way heavy and weaker it will eat up your power more than the double cardan already does
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Unread 11-30-2010, 10:20 AM   #5
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You don't need to change out the axle, just the jokes. Carolina doesn't recommend that conversion flange for 4" lifted jeeps.
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Unread 12-06-2010, 03:41 PM   #6
DaveRous
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Thanks for all the info. I figured for 50 bucks all parts included off a parts jeep it may be worth it if it will work. I suppose I'll give it a go.
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Unread 12-06-2010, 06:39 PM   #7
FirefightinWJ
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Make sure you measure rotational pre-load on your front pinion with an in/lb torque wrench prior to removing the original yoke. If you don't, you risk over-torquing the new yoke and destroying the crush sleeve along with your pinion bearings.
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Unread 12-06-2010, 07:29 PM   #8
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i wouldnt measure the pre-load with a torque wrench. especially not an in/lb one seeing as how theyre usually on well over 100ft lbs. its hard to get an accurate reading due to rust/seizing and factory installed thread lockers. this means often if you measure what it takes to pull the nut off and put it back on at that you risk breaking the crush sleeve all together. the crush sleeve is already positioned so you want your nut back exactly where it was before, even if the torque varies slightly. best way to do it is mark the nut and threads, count the exposed threads and put the nut back in the same location lining up your marks on the nut and threads.
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Unread 12-06-2010, 08:52 PM   #9
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Lol, you guys are making it sound so fun. Maybe Carolina would be easier in the long run...
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Unread 12-06-2010, 09:13 PM   #10
FirefightinWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick983 View Post
i wouldnt measure the pre-load with a torque wrench. especially not an in/lb one seeing as how theyre usually on well over 100ft lbs. its hard to get an accurate reading due to rust/seizing and factory installed thread lockers. this means often if you measure what it takes to pull the nut off and put it back on at that you risk breaking the crush sleeve all together. the crush sleeve is already positioned so you want your nut back exactly where it was before, even if the torque varies slightly. best way to do it is mark the nut and threads, count the exposed threads and put the nut back in the same location lining up your marks on the nut and threads.
You need to measure the torque in in/lbs that it takes to turn the pinion (rotational torque). Then you can retorque the new yoke to whatever torque it takes to turn the pinion with the original yoke.

Sure, the best method is to replace the crush sleeve, but this method should get it close enough to not have any bearing problems.

This method is a more accurate method than the thread/nut marking method.
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Unread 12-06-2010, 10:24 PM   #11
alifted4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moparwj View Post
i got the full yoke conversion from carolina considering i live 20 miles from them and its been great i would get it before anything else. the non yoke conversion is easier to install but it is way heavy and weaker it will eat up your power more than the double cardan already does

If you don't mind me asking, what did it cost from them?
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Unread 12-06-2010, 11:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveRous View Post
So I've been looking into it for a bit now, and I've found all of the set ups for converting to a u-joint style through tom woods and carolina, but had a question still. I've got access to several parts jeeps, some with a double u-joint set up. I'm at 4.5" of lift and keep eating up my double CV style, with access to the complete parts WJ, can I swap over one of the stock double u-joint shafts with the parts available? I don't want to change out my front axle.

I have a 99 with 4.7, quadra-drive, 247 TC, 4.5" of lift. I just needed a straight answer from anyone that's done it or knows about it, since it would save me a few hundred bucks compared to buying a new set up. Thanks!
Dude, it's actually pretty easy... I swapped out the CV/Rzeppa type shaft for a u-joint style that came from an '02 Limited. Axle side yoke and straps are from a TJ d30 and I bought the flanged TC yoke and bolts from 6 states. Diff side is torqued to 175 ft/lbs & TC was 160 ft/lbs (talk to Tom Woods or another respected driveline shop and ask what they recommend by way of torque on the TC side... I've heard conflicting responses, but 160 ft/lbs has been fine for me.) I've had absolutely no problems and have about 30k miles on this setup. Altogether I was out $122 including shipping
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Unread 12-07-2010, 04:47 AM   #13
patrick983
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Originally Posted by 801DubJay View Post
Dude, it's actually pretty easy... I swapped out the CV/Rzeppa type shaft for a u-joint style that came from an '02 Limited. Axle side yoke and straps are from a TJ d30 and I bought the flanged TC yoke and bolts from 6 states. Diff side is torqued to 175 ft/lbs & TC was 160 ft/lbs (talk to Tom Woods or another respected driveline shop and ask what they recommend by way of torque on the TC side... I've heard conflicting responses, but 160 ft/lbs has been fine for me.) I've had absolutely no problems and have about 30k miles on this setup. Altogether I was out $122 including shipping

this will work except for the flange, he's at 4.5in of lift, with a flange he'll likely get vibes, you want to swap yokes on the TC as well, which is as easy as removing the one big bolt and replacing the yokes.

FirefightinWJ, i agree with the concept definitely, what im trying to say is #1, ive never seen an in/lb torque wrench that measures in the thousands, which would be the amt it requires to remove this nut, since its torque to well over 100ft/lbs. #2 people often get inaccurate torque figures measuring how much break-away torque is necessary, and retorque either too high or too low, depending on situation. marking the POSITION of the nut ensures the crush sleeve has the same position as well, it usually comes out about right anyway, but just to be safe, i'd do it this way. ive seen several of them start leaking or the diff start howling when people have the nut set further back than it was to start.
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Unread 12-07-2010, 06:23 AM   #14
FirefightinWJ
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Originally Posted by patrick983 View Post
this will work except for the flange, he's at 4.5in of lift, with a flange he'll likely get vibes, you want to swap yokes on the TC as well, which is as easy as removing the one big bolt and replacing the yokes.

FirefightinWJ, i agree with the concept definitely, what im trying to say is #1, ive never seen an in/lb torque wrench that measures in the thousands, which would be the amt it requires to remove this nut, since its torque to well over 100ft/lbs. #2 people often get inaccurate torque figures measuring how much break-away torque is necessary, and retorque either too high or too low, depending on situation. marking the POSITION of the nut ensures the crush sleeve has the same position as well, it usually comes out about right anyway, but just to be safe, i'd do it this way. ive seen several of them start leaking or the diff start howling when people have the nut set further back than it was to start.
You're not using the in/lb torque wrench to remove the nut. You're using it to measure how many in/lbs of torque it takes to rotate the pinion. You then jot that number down, use an impact or breaker bar to remove the yoke, the re fasten the yoke as tight as it needs to be to get the rotational torque from the pinion back to your original measurement.
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Unread 12-07-2010, 06:01 PM   #15
801DubJay
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Originally Posted by patrick983 View Post
this will work except for the flange, he's at 4.5in of lift, with a flange he'll likely get vibes, you want to swap yokes on the TC as well, which is as easy as removing the one big bolt and replacing the yokes.
Haha, crap...You're right. I didn't mean flange. I was thinking of the flared seal around the yoke, like in my pic. Thanks for the correction
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