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09-17-2010, 10:41 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hudson, CO
Posts: 112
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I was changing the front brakes today and noticed the axle has been leaking out of the end of the tube on the passenger side. The inside of the wheel was a mess and I suspect that the gear oil might have had something to with the pad failure. The brakes seemed dry, but I can't think of any other explination for the pads failing with so much material left.
Anyway, I've built a few axles in the past, but never one on a WJ. I was searching for the seals on the parts store sites, but no one lists it. Anyone have a source or part number?
Has anyone done this before? Any tips?
Thanks,
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09-18-2010, 08:15 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Lansing Michigan, Michigan
Posts: 1,521
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Should be a standard D30 inner seal for CV shaft axle.
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09-18-2010, 08:34 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Durham, North Carolina
Posts: 2,937
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major surgery to replace a D30 front seal, you have to pull the wheels, the brakes, the unit bearings, the shafts, remove the diff cover and drain, remove the carrier and then you can get to the seals as they are way down inside and are installed from the center section. You are looking at a days worth of labor to do it. Do both while you have it apart.
also either fill out your vehicle information or tell us what we are working on, year, model, accesory level, quadra trac, quadrra drive, etc.
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09-18-2010, 10:10 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hudson, CO
Posts: 112
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Sorry, you're right. I forgot that not all WJs are the same. I'm working on a '03 GC Larado V8 with Quadra Track II.
I agree that the seal "should be" the standard D30 seals, but I haven't been able source any or confirm. I appreciate the description of the job. It confirms what I thought I needed to do. Also, in looking at the bearing assemblies, they are held on by bolts with 12 pt heads. Anybody know the size? I'm going to have to go buy one. Last question, will the axle shafts come out while still attached to the bearing assemblies once the bearings are unbolted fron the upright?
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09-18-2010, 12:17 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Durham, North Carolina
Posts: 2,937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Grand
Sorry, you're right. I forgot that not all WJs are the same. I'm working on a '03 GC Larado V8 with Quadra Track II.
I agree that the seal "should be" the standard D30 seals, but I haven't been able source any or confirm. I appreciate the description of the job. It confirms what I thought I needed to do. Also, in looking at the bearing assemblies, they are held on by bolts with 12 pt heads. Anybody know the size? I'm going to have to go buy one. Last question, will the axle shafts come out while still attached to the bearing assemblies once the bearings are unbolted fron the upright?
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yes the shafts will come out with the unit bearings.
mopar part number from parts fiche
04874477 SEAL, Axle Drive ShaftRight or Left
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09-18-2010, 05:20 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Durham, North Carolina
Posts: 2,937
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13 mm on the hub bolts.
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09-18-2010, 06:06 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 322
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I'm about to do mine in the next week or so. Mine started a few months ago after I changed the passenger half-shaft, an occasional drip out the tube and onto the tire after driving it. Oddly enough, it dried up and I got to thinking the oil is finally below the seal, just recently it started dripping again, there's plenty of oil in the diff.
It's actually a pretty straight forward deal compared to replacing bearings as when replacing the seals you shouldn't be changing anything in the center section, the shims are behind the bearings and they never come off.
BUT - more than a 12pt socket/wrench you're going to need to figure a way to remove and press the seals in... There's many different ways to do this, but the easiest seems to be a piece (12") of threaded rod and some washers and nuts.
Now having said that... If you don't have a 12pt socket/wrench handy, you sure you're up to the task of separating the bearing from the knuckle and all the other stuff? there's no need to undo the axle bolt if you're not replacing the half shaft.
Have fun! I'll be doing this soon, but going to replace the driver's half-shaft also (cracking rotten boot oddly still together) so might as well while it's apart.
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09-18-2010, 08:05 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hudson, CO
Posts: 112
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A big socket on a long extension has always worked for me in the past. As for the 12pt socket, I normally have no use for them. I intensionally buy 6pt sockets because they are less likely to round off regular bolts. I believe my combination wrenches have 12pt box ends, so that may work if I can get on all three bolts.
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09-18-2010, 08:36 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Burlington, Kentucky
Posts: 5,400
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The Hub bolts are 3x 13mm 12 point bolts.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moPowered
The SRt-8's are a liberty design.
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2011 WK2 Laredo with ORA1
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09-19-2010, 04:51 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hudson, CO
Posts: 112
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Yep, that's why we were discussing 12pt sockets.
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