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Unread 01-03-2011, 03:40 PM   #1
Agent008
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Exclamation Foggy Windows. No heat. Smoking vents.

99 Limited with auto climate. The way it is now its really unsafe to drive.

It looks like smoke coming out of the vents. Im assuming that its condensation since the vents also get wet. The windshield fogs up really bad. I also have no control over the hvac controls. I try turning it off or changing from vent air to defrost vents, low fan to high fan. Nothing happens. Condensation just pours out of the vents.

Ive heard about the blend doors but I havent heard of condensation coming out of the vents. I also thought that the CEL comes on for blend door issues. I do not have a CEL

Im pretty handy with a wench and hope this is something I can tackle by myself. Can anyone shed any light on this issue or do I need to take it to a mechanic.

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Unread 01-03-2011, 03:49 PM   #2
CoolGuyDave
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sounds like a leaky heater core. does it smell like coolant?
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Unread 01-03-2011, 03:51 PM   #3
straty1987
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i had a similar problem, the snow staying On the glass would keep the glass frosty and have to wipe it.
try opening the window to get some outside air to even the temp out.

is it hot inside your jeep and could outside.

some more info on you jeep and the weather it happens in might help
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Unread 01-03-2011, 04:06 PM   #4
Agent008
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There is no odor. Could it still be the heater core? That doesn't explain my lack of hvac control.

No snow on the vehicle. I tried driving with both front windows down for a bit and it didn't do anything. I wouldn't say it is hot in my cabin. More like comfortable. Not hot or too cold.
There is no airflow from any of the vents. Just the condensation slowly pouring out

It's a 99 limited I6 with 160k on the clock. I'm in philadelphia and the weather is cold.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 04:26 PM   #5
rebuilder02
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Heater core. Unless exterior rain/snow somehow made its way thru the exterior air intake which is located on passenger side below the windshield wiper cowling. That is usually very hard to do though.

My 02 needs a new core as well. At first it was subtle and I couldn't smell it but could see it on the glass. It's got worse and it smells a lot now. I assume your coolant isn't extremely diluted which could also explain the lack of smell.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 04:53 PM   #6
Agent008
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Is it worth it to get the heater core from the dealership or can I salvage one from someone parting their wj? How involved is that job? I haven't begun to look into how to do the heater core replacement job. I'm on my phone.

I'm assuming the lack of my hvac controls is another issue? I don't see how just replacing the heater core will give me back control of my hvac functions.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 05:01 PM   #7
rebuilder02
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There's a reason I haven't replaced mine yet.....it's a major undertaking.
Set aside a full weekend or more depending on your mechanical skills.
You have to pull the whole front dash to get to the core.

Best value I saw was from Napa. Don 't go to dealership. Also rockauto.com might be better price.

Your heater controls will have to be diagnosed separately. Diagnose thru HVAC panel.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 05:12 PM   #8
rebuilder02
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There's a good heater core replacement write up somewhere with pics but I can't find where it was. Not sure where the heck I stumbled on it? Here or another jeep forum?
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Unread 01-03-2011, 05:15 PM   #9
rebuilder02
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Here's a snippet from the manual for hvac diagnostic:
ENTERING THE AZC SELF-DIAGNOSTIC MODE
To enter the AZC self-diagnostic mode, perform the
following:
(1) Depress the a/c and recirc buttons at the same
time and hold. Rotate the left temperature control
knob clockwise (CW) one detent.
(2) If you continue to keep the a/c and recirc buttons
depressed, the AZC control module will perform
a Segment Test of the Vacuum Fluorescent (VF) display.
In the Segment Test you should see all of the
display segments illuminate as long as both buttons
are held. If a display segment fails to illuminate, the
vacuum fluorescent display is faulty and the a/c
heater control must be replaced.
(3) After viewing the Segment Test, release the
A/C and Recirc buttons and the display will clear


momentarily.
If a 0 is displayed, then no faults
are set in the system.

Should there be any faults,
either

9current9 or 9historical9, all fault codes will be
displayed in ascending numerical sequence (note no
effort is made to display fault codes in chronological
order). Each fault code is displayed for one second
before the next code is displayed. Once all fault codes
have been displayed, the system will then repeat the
fault code numbers. This will continue until the left
side set temperature control is moved at least one
detent position in the CW direction or the ignition is
turned

9OFF9.
FAULT CODE TESTS
Fault codes are two-digit numbers that identify a
circuit that is malfunctioning. There are two different
kinds of fault codes.


Current Fault Codes - Current means the
fault is present right now. There are two types of current
faults: input faults, and system faults.


Historical Fault Codes - Historical or stored
means that the fault occurred previously, but is not
present right now. A majority of historical fault codes
are caused by intermittent wire harness or wire harness
connector problems.

01 = IR thermister circuit open
02 = IR thermister circuit shorted
03 = Fan pot shorted
04 = Fan pot open
05 = Mode pot shorted
06 = Mode pot open
07 = IR sensor delta too large
08 = Reserved
09 = Reserved
10 = One of four motor drivers has drive
9A9 shorted to ground
11 = Engine air intake temperature Buss message missing
12 = Country code Buss message missing
System Faults 13 = Mode motor not responding
14 = AI (Recirc) motor not responding
15 = Left temperature door not responding
16 = Right temperature door not responding
17 = Mode door travel range too small
18 = Mode door travel range too large
19 = AI (Recirc) door travel too small
20 = AI (Recirc) door travel too large
21 = Left temperature door travel too small
22 = Left temperature door travel too large
23 = Right temperature door travel too small
24 = Right temperature door travel too large
25 = Calibration check sum error
26 = Engine coolant temp bus message missing
27 = Vehicle speed bus message missing
28 = Engine RPM bus message missing
29 = OAT bus message missing
30 = Display intensity bus message missing
31 = VIN number bus message missing

32 = Raw OAT bus message missing
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Unread 01-03-2011, 06:48 PM   #10
Agent008
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Thanks for the diagnostic procedure info. I'll give that a shot when I get back from my work trip. If you happen to come across the write up for the heater core replacement please post it. Not only for me but for reference for others that may come across this thread later on.
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Unread 01-04-2011, 11:41 AM   #11
Agent008
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WOW! This is a big job Im having doubts about doing this myself. Its a large job and I dont have a garage big enough to work in. So that means working out in the elements

I found this for the removal of the dash:
http://www.wjjeeps.com/hvac_ip_remove.htm

Havent found a write up for the actual heater core replacement. I have read that non-OEM heater cores dont fit very well so it may be worth it to shell out the extra coin for the OEM unit
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Unread 01-04-2011, 11:57 AM   #12
prjohnson
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Mine did the exact same thing with a Grand Am I had. Steem out the vents so bad I couldn't see. I was scared my car was on fire! The Mechanic was a friend who said he would never do that job on another car as long as he lived. It required taking apart the whole dash. From what I understand, it's actually fairly easy, just a lot of time.

Do not get a salvage one. A job that big, you want to put a brand new one in.
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Unread 01-04-2011, 12:32 PM   #13
_Adrenaline_
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Unread 01-04-2011, 01:46 PM   #14
jarretts70
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Agent 008 - as per your PM, here's what happened to me:

I replaced the heater core in the summer, then when winter hit I was dealing with MAJOR condensation issues. Everyone I talked to said it was the heater core, but I was not losing coolant and there was no smell. I had to tear the dash out again. On the top of the AC/heat unit there is a door that controls if the unit is drawing fresh air from outside, or recirculating the inside air - it's controled by the recirc button on the dash controls (naturally). It's powered by a little electric motor, like the blend doors. I found that when I put it back together the first time, I had forgot to hook the power to the motor, so it was stuck in recirc mode & couldn't draw fresh air. Hooked it back up and all issues solved. MAJOR pain in the A%^, especially since it was my own damn fault. There was much profanitiy...

If that little electric motor has failed on your unit & it's stuck in recirc mode, you will of course have the same issues. The good news is that you dont auctually have to remove the AC unit to fix it, which means you don't have to deal with discharging the AC, etc...The bad news is that you still have to tear out the dash to get to it. Have fun. I'll set mine on fire before I go thru that again...
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Unread 01-04-2011, 02:15 PM   #15
xjfever
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Removing the dash and stuff isn't hard to do, just very time consuming. I did mine a few months ago and it was a bit intimidating at first, but wasn't that bad once I got started. Paying to have it done will cost around 1,000 dollars.
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