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Unread 10-04-2013, 10:47 PM   #16
WJ2000
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Dude '' what's this
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP

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Unread 10-05-2013, 04:03 AM   #17
Tollmtn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ2000 View Post
It is a flex joint for front UCAs, it is the wrong diameter. And like all of IRO's flex joints it is a cheaply made backyard mechanic type design POS that can not compare with flex joints from Summit Machine, Ballistic Fab or Currie. In fact I do not know of another flex joint on the market that is as poorly designed and cheaply made.

Plus for a few bucks more Currie has a quality Johnny joint made for front UCA or front diff loop application that is actually internally greasable.
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Unread 10-05-2013, 05:42 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tollmtn View Post

It is a flex joint for front UCAs, it is the wrong diameter. And like all of IRO's flex joints it is a cheaply made backyard mechanic type design POS that can not compare with flex joints from Summit Machine, Ballistic Fab or Currie. In fact I do not know of another flex joint on the market that is as poorly designed and cheaply made.

Plus for a few bucks more Currie has a quality Johnny joint made for front UCA or front diff loop application that is actually internally greasable.
You read my mind.
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Unread 10-05-2013, 07:45 AM   #19
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Thanks Skain and Tollmtn.

I would rather have a ZJ type rear suspension with a track bar than this silly setup...


Summit Machine also said they could produce some custom size flex joints as well, but will be more expensive (obviously). Is it worth it? Im not sure, but highway driving is no fun even with a small amount of wind and barely uneven pavement. Tollmtn, you did bring up valid points about tightening the joint. Maybe I will pick up some MOPAR ones. Im just tired out replacing "new" parts again and again.
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Unread 10-05-2013, 11:43 AM   #20
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Everyone should appreciate your efforts on this.

Give me some time - pethaps I can see about producing some sort of weld on upgrade.
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Unread 10-05-2013, 02:37 PM   #21
Merc1973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skain8 View Post
Everyone should appreciate your efforts on this.

Give me some time - pethaps I can see about producing some sort of weld on upgrade.
Thanks. That would be awesome.

I love Tollmts ingenuity with his improved version of the IRO a-arm. I just dont have another $300+ to do that. One word: "Wife"

BTW, Summit Machine sent another reply in regards to lubrication:

Quote:
You have two options on greasing the joint.

1. You can drill and tap the sleeve you are pressing our joint into to fit a zirk. Then, use this as your grease point. You will need to make sure to line up our zirk hole with yours. This is the least expensive way to make it happen.

2. We can drill a hole in the ball of the joint, and then you would need to use a grease-able bolt. We can make you a grease-able bolt or you can look for one on your own. Cost to drill the ball will be $10 per ball.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 03:39 AM   #22
texlurch
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I've been talking a bit with some folks about a JJ style joint that will have the same dimensions as the stock mounts.
You would have to cut the sleeves off the ends of the a-arm and weld these in tho

Seems like that would end up with a nice setup.
The a-arm may not give you the ultimate flex of a dedicated 4-link, but for 99% of us it would be more than enough.

It's either that, or change my a-arm out to triangulated upper arms similar to Claytons.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 09:08 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch View Post
I've been talking a bit with some folks about a JJ style joint that will have the same dimensions as the stock mounts.
You would have to cut the sleeves off the ends of the a-arm and weld these in tho

Seems like that would end up with a nice setup.
The a-arm may not give you the ultimate flex of a dedicated 4-link, but for 99% of us it would be more than enough.

It's either that, or change my a-arm out to triangulated upper arms similar to Claytons.
Thanks for checking up on that , I just went throw and rebuilt my A arm
an new bushing from IRO . I had to heat up those cups with a torch an
then, press them out, Talking about a pain in the A** IRO sure didn't
make that easy .
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Unread 12-15-2013, 09:12 AM   #24
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Main thing I see on my RC a-arm is the bushings/sleeves are on the arm at an angle.
So if you want to run regular flex joints, the axle end would need spaced up to get the arm at a flatter angle.
Either that or the flex joint has to go on the arm at the same angle.
I would rather get the arm more flat, closer to stock.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 10:58 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch View Post
Main thing I see on my RC a-arm is the bushings/sleeves are on the arm at an angle.
So if you want to run regular flex joints, the axle end would need spaced up to get the arm at a flatter angle.
Either that or the flex joint has to go on the arm at the same angle.
I would rather get the arm more flat, closer to stock.
You say "the bushing sleeves are on the RC A arm at an angle" I wonder if IRO supplies the A arms for RC, they sure look the same and the sleeve angle was one of the problems with IRO's A arm.

If you want to modify your A arm it would be dead simple to cut them off and replace them with any brand flex joint. All you need to do is weld them on at the right angle for your lift and make a washer or spacer to get the length correct, the OEM bushings are an odd length, (2.800").

I am bias but I think my solution to the problem works as well or better than flex joints or heim ends. Mainly because it is simple, it will never bind in droop, it is rock solid against side thrust, and other than grease it requires zero maintenance.

I fabricated an adapter to change the bushing orientation from vertical to horizontal like an IFS control arm. Then I could use greasable urethane bushings like one would normally use in control arms. I did that back in July and it exceeded my expectations. The bushings..... IF..... they last like the ones in the control arms on my dedicated trail truck will outlast my WJ.

Concerning Merc1973 question about pressing 2" flex joints into a stock A arm.... Merc I pressed a bushing out of an OEM A arm and measured it and the hole. The diameter measured an average of 1.970" the hole measured an average of 1.968" both were sort of egg shaped. So the dimensions you posted are correct. That confirms that pressing in a 2" bushing is out of the question without modifying the arm or machining down the flex joint sleeve. You would still have the problems we discussed before with the retainer set screw and grease fitting.

Another possibility....You could modify the arm and weld in or on the flex joint sleeves. To do that I would cut about an inch wide piece out of the sheet metal loop that the bushing presses into on the OEM A arm. That would let it spring open hopefully enough the joint sleeve would press in. You could locate the grease fitting and retainer set screw in the 1" slot. Then weld the sides of the cut to the sleeve and I would put a few small welds on each side of the A arm. If an experienced welder did the work, you could cut off half of the sheet metal loop and use the remaining half to line up the flex joint sleeve and just weld it on. If you were not confident in the welds you could wrap a piece of flat bar around the sleeve for more weld and strength.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 01:56 PM   #26
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Tollmtn, can you email some pics and details of your a-arm mods? I've thought about something similar but other ideas are always good! All the photo hosting sites are blocked here so most links no workie...
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Unread 12-15-2013, 02:06 PM   #27
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I would also be interested in seeing your set up
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Unread 12-15-2013, 04:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch View Post
Tollmtn, can you email some pics and details of your a-arm mods? I've thought about something similar but other ideas are always good! All the photo hosting sites are blocked here so most links no workie...
I will attempt to post pictures if that fails I will email you some. Anyone is welcome to copy this or use the basic concept to build something like it. I have been using it for five months and it works great. It cured the loose feeling and wander the back end always had. I live in the middle of a mountain pass, the road into town is full of sharp turns and I have not found any quirks in handling. Ditto the toughest trails and towing a 21ft T trailer.

I built in a slight drop at the body end, my A arm is virtually horizontal at 4" of lift. In the last photo notice that I drilled through the existing second hole at the body mount and added a second bolt. Not that it is needed, I just believe in overkill.

The bolts are 9/16", the bushings are 2 5/8" wide. The sleeves and bushing cost $15.00 per side. The link tabs are 3/8" plate the adapter bar is 1 1/2" sq. with 3/16 wall.









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Unread 12-15-2013, 04:30 PM   #29
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Real nice design there. Quick, patent that! Won't have any issues with drop or flex with that setup.
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Unread 12-16-2013, 12:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tollmtn View Post
I will attempt to post pictures if that fails I will email you some. Anyone is welcome to copy this or use the basic concept to build something like it. I have been using it for five months and it works great. It cured the loose feeling and wander the back end always had. I live in the middle of a mountain pass, the road into town is full of sharp turns and I have not found any quirks in handling. Ditto the toughest trails and towing a 21ft T trailer.

I built in a slight drop at the body end, my A arm is virtually horizontal at 4" of lift. In the last photo notice that I drilled through the existing second hole at the body mount and added a second bolt. Not that it is needed, I just believe in overkill.

The bolts are 9/16", the bushings are 2 5/8" wide. The sleeves and bushing cost $15.00 per side. The link tabs are 3/8" plate the adapter bar is 1 1/2" sq. with 3/16 wall.









Sounds interesting but pics are blocked here; I'll study up on it when I get back home.
Now that you have my mind engaged.. I have a couple spare JK LCA brackets.. good place for a JJ

Overall I am happy with what I have and it works great for a DD.
I am just planning options for when the UCA bushing wear out, because I don't like the basic design and think there is something better.

Does ok..
.
img_1244.jpg  
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