Eaton E-Locker front with Vari-lok rear? D30/D44A - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 08-17-2017, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
mikeyp746
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Eaton E-Locker front with Vari-lok rear? D30/D44A

Anyone done it? I already have a Eaton E-Locker for my Dana 30. I'm going to get some 4.56 gears from Kolak. Currently I have the vari-lok diffs front and rear, and already did a 242 swap. I'm thinking of putting the locker in front during the regear, and eventually doing the open carrier/axle/locker rear down the road. Right now the vari-loks seem to be working well, but there's 148K on everything so I'm thinking of being preventative in the front since I already have the e-locker. Thoughts or any reasons not to? I'm running a 35" tire. Goal is to be more of a solid overland ride rather than a crawler. Just want it capable without going overboard right now.

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post #2 of 5 Old 08-17-2017, 11:25 AM
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Considering what you're already running, I'd guess you won't have to make any immediate accommodation for a selectable locker up front. You may want to carry a spare front half shaft when you'll be on more remote trails since the selectable is going to be unforgiving vs. the Vari-Lok clutches.


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post #3 of 5 Old 08-17-2017, 11:33 AM
gtg413i
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I have eaton front (super duper dana30) and varilok rear d44 stock 3.73 gears and hd242 on 3" lift and 32's. I'm looking to go to 6" and 35's then add the aussie or arb and regear to 4.88. I have heard the variloks don't really work at 35" tires. If you aren't rock crawling you may just be using open front and rear. Depending how you wheel, locking the front will not prevent things from breaking sooner, but may accelerate you breaking things. Also to change from vari lok to a true locker, you will need a new carrier and axle shafts which can be cheap from a junkyard if sticking with stock axle shafts. You should upgrade to chromolly axle shafts which is not cheap.

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post #4 of 5 Old 08-18-2017, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
mikeyp746
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Thanks guys. Took it to a trail around here and it all actually worked pretty well with the 35's. The rear seems tighter than the front. I've checked the front and it is working, but it still spins more like an open than the rear. I knew I had to get the open carrier and axles for the rear end, so was just going to buy a used open rear end for those parts and then get a Spartan locker, but was just looking to do it down the road when the funds are better. I guess I'm just leaning towards a regear for now, but was on the fence if I should put the e-locker in the front since I already have it. I think I'm just going to regear and then do the lockers at the same time down the road. Thanks!
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post #5 of 5 Old 08-19-2017, 03:19 PM
gtg413i
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If you know what's involved and you can source some cheap axles then you would save money on the install by doing it all at once. I would say just do it. You can carry spare front axle shafts if you break any. Why are you choosing 4.56 gears over 4.88? Since our wj's don't have a 4:1 transfer case, I want to get as low a gear as possible in the axle.

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