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Jeep Gear & Install Packages!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!USA Standard Chromoly Front Axle Shaft Kits with Dana 30 4

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Unread 10-23-2009, 01:45 AM   #1
straty1987
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dual control blen dor no dash remove install writeup with pics

I know most people love the single control heatertreater one but i wanted to keep it dual control and my mother loves the colds air in the summer while everyone else that drove dose not. so since no one has done this version here it is.

I spent weeks online reading on all different forums and websites about the two version and these guys go after each other allot. here are there sites Blen Dor Store - Products and Auto replacement part, blend door fix, Heat, AC replacement parts. i picked the blen dor dual control version over the HT dual control version because with the HT one you have to cut up part of teh glove box for the extra motor

At first i was going to use a hot knife to make the cuts so i would not make a mess and i discovered that x-acto use to put their blades on a soldering iron but they stopped selling it since people were getting hurt, can you image that happening. I discovered one of the blades for sale on eBay for a few bucks and ordered it but did not fit my soldering irons or any that i found so that idea was a dead idea. Autozone had a rotary tool for $20 AutoZone.com | 36 pcs. rotary tool | 36 pcs. rotary tool it works OK and did the job.

tools used


The blen dor kits came with two doors(made similar to the OEM ones), drive connector with stopping pin, aluminum tape, a bit (for cutting the walls), 2 wires with a button, and 6 pages of detailed color instructions.


the path to warm air starts here


After you empty out the glove box you have remove the 2 plastic tabs that stop the box from failing all the way down. just reach under there and you will fell them, they are rubber and have a curve to them. just pull them down and they will come off.


plastic tabs

left with this


you can see the motor on the left of you and 2 sets of wires. Unscrew the 2 Philips screws that hold the motor in and disconnect it. there is another set of weir there connected by a big square terminal that you have to first take it off the plastic wall to disconnect them. Just pull it up and it will come off then you can disconnect them. next i taped the weirs out of the way so i would not hit them with the rotary tool. In the 02 i have a Philips screw on the bottom (right of white square) note some have a clip, i have a screwdriver that is on a angle and it makes it a simple job to remove the screw.


motor gone


angel screwdriver, I used this tool to get the OEM tweeters out of that tight spot between the glass and dash and it has helped me allot with the jeep.


now it was time to cut into the jeep , i kept the rotary tool at about 2.5 on the speed and worked fine for me. the heater core is to the right of the motor and you have to try your best not to hit it. so just keep the bit in deep enough to cut the plastic. my photos are dark so hard to show the cut lines but the instructions will show you were to cut. both walls have a grove on the bottom so just have to cut out the sides and top.

I took out the first wall and my blend door was fine. then i took out the inner wall and i noted the broken part. Not allot broke on the shaft but enough to stop my passenger side form getting heat.

walls out





broken part


outside view


side view of doors, not to bad for over 7 years old


now it was time to vacuum up as much shavings as i could
taking out the drive connector took some work with the pliers. i had to wiggle it back and forth and pull at the same time to get it out bit i got it.


now i could take out the doors.

the OEM foam was in OK shape so i don't think i have to worry about the blen dor ones. at first i was thinking about putting a coat of duck tape over the doors so it could be more smooth (like teh HT ones) since they are just foam and someone said online that the air might blow them off.


now the Blen dor instructions were a bit odd (to me) so i did the next few parts my way from what i have learned from my mistakes in the past with the motors for the doors.

He provides you with a cable for you to connect one end to the negative battery post and the other to the negative battery terminal after you disconnect them. so when you start the jeep up and play with the knobs you can stop the passenger side drive connector in the right spot and disconnect the power at the right time.

i did not fell like doing this and i discovered something the last time i took off my driver side motor off. I was playing with the system testing things and looking to see if the stopping pin broke or the plastic tabs. so after i turned the jeep off and took off the motor (still plugged it), it started tuning and kept on going till i connected it to the drive connect and the stopping pin had resistance to say this is as far as you go. so i was going to use this method, but first i tried to see if it would move on its own when i moved the knobs and it did not. so i turned off the jeep and held the door over the spot it belonged in and waited to hear the motor turning. when i heard it i was able to pop it in to the groves and it worked out well.

got it going up and got the door in the groves


then you just slip in the other door and push in the drive connector


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Unread 10-23-2009, 01:46 AM   #2
straty1987
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new metal drive connector with stopping pin

make sure you put the stopping pin in between the 2 points on the plastic


i disconnected my driver side motor at the beginning so it was set for the door to be at the lowest position, if i kept it plugged in it would of went around and stopped at any point when i was playing with the passenger side motor. so now i just have to pop it in and screw it on.

reconnected the motor and tested the system, works good


now i waited 15 minutes just in case the motor started turning, i used this time to clean up all my tools. i decided to not put up in the inside wall but i was going to at frist. i looked at how the system worked and noticed that the wall only went half way to the heater core so i am keeping the piece so if i notice its not working right i will put it in.

all taped up


put the system on to see for air coming out of the tape


you don't noticed the tape from the outside


in total i spend about an hour but did this on the street so had to move things off the sidewalk now and then. i am happy with it and glade i did not take the hole dash apart and spend a day working on it. cost me $198.26 off of eBay and took 3 days to come. now i have heat on both sides and tomorrow i will fix the heated seats

sorry if this was long
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Unread 10-23-2009, 03:03 AM   #3
W3MOT
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Just to clarify.. what was the issue you were having? Was the heat not working on one side? Was it not coming out strong enough? I have a few issues with Mode doors that I'd like to tackle.. I get nice strong air on one center vent and weak air on all others.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 10:34 AM   #4
SDT03GCOverland
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Informative pics. Thanks.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 10:41 AM   #5
GraKee99
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Nice write up


Mods, can we sticky this?
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Unread 10-23-2009, 11:59 AM   #6
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraKee99 View Post
Nice write up


Mods, can we sticky this?
sure, i put it up so people can get a better idea of this version
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Unread 10-23-2009, 12:17 PM   #7
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W3MOT View Post
Just to clarify.. what was the issue you were having? Was the heat not working on one side? Was it not coming out strong enough? I have a few issues with Mode doors that I'd like to tackle.. I get nice strong air on one center vent and weak air on all others.
the passenger said was not getting heat, code 56 (Right temperature door travel too large). i was because the plastic axle that connect to the drive connector broke (top right of the photo) so when the motor spun it did not lift the door.


Jeep Grand Cherokee WK - Climate controls
go to the AZC self-diagnostic mode part and see what codes you get
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Unread 10-23-2009, 12:21 PM   #8
XJH-007
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Just did mine Tuesday night with that exact kit.

My passenger axle was split the same way.

Boy am I glad I used the hot Xacto knife...WHAT A MESS with the Rotozip!!!

For anyone doing this mod. Just go buy an Xacto knife and heat it with a Propane/Butane Torch...like cutting butter with NO plastic shreds everywhere.


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Unread 10-23-2009, 12:30 PM   #9
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJH-007 View Post
Just did mine Tuesday night with that exact kit.

My passenger axle was split the same way.

Boy am I glad I used the hot Xacto knife...WHAT A MESS with the Rotozip!!!

For anyone doing this mod. Just go buy an Xacto knife and heat it with a Propane/Butane Torch...like cutting butter with NO plastic shreds everywhere.


funny how most break the same way

X2 on the blade , i wanted to but cold not find anything that would fit the blade. i have a shop vacuum so clean up was not that bad and i had to vacuum the floor anyway

this is the one i bought but it did not fit any standard soldering iron so try to find one with the iron that is about 25W
X-Acto hot knife blade & adaptor new foam core, candles - eBay (item 230364467758 end time Nov-03-09 14:01:41 PST)
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Unread 11-24-2009, 10:13 AM   #10
Crummy
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Right hand drive models

Does this fix work on Right hand drive models or is the mechanism hidden by right hand driver's side dash?
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Unread 11-24-2009, 04:12 PM   #11
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crummy View Post
Does this fix work on Right hand drive models or is the mechanism hidden by right hand driver's side dash?
your set up should be the same as all of the left hand drive jeeps but just in revers, but you never know with DC.

the doors i had have the same amount of foam on both sides so i would think you can do the same as me but you make a hole from you left side were i did it on the right and you change the drive connector on the left hand side of the jeep not the right.

this is what the left hand drive looks like, i would just think they swap the control since doors are the same

http://wjjeeps.com/hvac/hvac_sub_05134353aa.jpg


contact the guy and see what he says

web site
Blen Dor Store - Home

website contact
Blen Dor Store - Contact Us

ebay listing, had better luck and a better price with the ebay list over his website
Blen Dor Store - Contact Us
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Unread 01-03-2010, 06:50 PM   #12
Genericusername
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hate to dig up an old thread but can this work on the ZJ too? I notice that i only get heat and a/c out of my defrost vents, and that air typically leaks out of the vents even when i have it off
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by the thing that spins when you drive underneath
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Unread 01-30-2010, 12:24 AM   #13
fivetears
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Did mine this afternoon with the dual door (single controlled) kit. I found the supplied rotozip bit to large, and used a smaller 3/32 drill bit with my own available attachment. It cut a nice line that I carefully sealed shut with an everyday hot glue gun; just enough glue to fuse the drill bit gap. I decided to go ahead and apply the aluminum tape supplied with the kit... seeing how I paid for it, but I could have left it off. The AC/heater box sealed up rock solid with the glue gun. Just thought I'd pass this on. This repair saved me $726.30 and I'm very happy with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XJH-007 View Post
Just did mine Tuesday night with that exact kit.
My passenger axle was split the same way. Boy am I glad I used the hot Xacto knife...WHAT A MESS with the Rotozip!!! For anyone doing this mod. Just go buy an Xacto knife and heat it with a Propane/Butane Torch...like cutting butter with NO plastic shreds everywhere.
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Unread 01-30-2010, 04:28 PM   #14
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genericusername View Post
hate to dig up an old thread but can this work on the ZJ too? I notice that i only get heat and a/c out of my defrost vents, and that air typically leaks out of the vents even when i have it off
i don't think this will work on the ZJ's since they don't have dual control.

try the search or make a treat and see what ZJ owners say


Quote:
Originally Posted by fivetears View Post
Did mine this afternoon with the dual door (single controlled) kit. I found the supplied rotozip bit to large, and used a smaller 3/32 drill bit with my own available attachment. It cut a nice line that I carefully sealed shut with an everyday hot glue gun; just enough glue to fuse the drill bit gap. I decided to go ahead and apply the aluminum tape supplied with the kit... seeing how I paid for it, but I could have left it off. The AC/heater box sealed up rock solid with the glue gun. Just thought I'd pass this on. This repair saved me $726.30 and I'm very happy with it.
the bit he gave fit just fine for me and so far the metal tape is holding up well. was the $800 quote for the dash remove with new doors and core?
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Unread 09-13-2010, 06:18 PM   #15
lipripper
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great write up, picked up pretty much the same kit for $149 from JGCParts.com. And the hot knife is the way to go, to difficult to get out all the plastic inside that box, most vacume attachements won't fit inside.
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