I know most people love the single control heatertreater one but i wanted to keep it dual control and my mother loves the colds air in the summer while everyone else that drove dose not. so since no one has done this version here it is.
I spent weeks online reading on all different forums and websites about the two version and these guys go after each other allot. here are there sites Blen Dor Store - Products
and Auto replacement part, blend door fix, Heat, AC replacement parts
. i picked the blen dor dual control version over the HT dual control version because with the HT one you have to cut up part of teh glove box for the extra motor
At first i was going to use a hot knife to make the cuts so i would not make a mess and i discovered that x-acto use to put their blades on a soldering iron but they stopped selling it since people were getting hurt, can you image that happening. I discovered one of the blades for sale on eBay for a few bucks and ordered it but did not fit my soldering irons or any that i found so that idea was a dead idea. Autozone had a rotary tool for $20 AutoZone.com | 36 pcs. rotary tool | 36 pcs. rotary tool
it works OK and did the job.
The blen dor kits came with two doors(made similar to the OEM ones), drive connector with stopping pin, aluminum tape, a bit (for cutting the walls), 2 wires with a button, and 6 pages of detailed color instructions.
the path to warm air starts here
After you empty out the glove box you have remove the 2 plastic tabs that stop the box from failing all the way down. just reach under there and you will fell them, they are rubber and have a curve to them. just pull them down and they will come off.
left with this
you can see the motor on the left of you and 2 sets of wires. Unscrew the 2 Philips screws that hold the motor in and disconnect it. there is another set of weir there connected by a big square terminal that you have to first take it off the plastic wall to disconnect them. Just pull it up and it will come off then you can disconnect them. next i taped the weirs out of the way so i would not hit them with the rotary tool. In the 02 i have a Philips screw on the bottom (right of white square) note some have a clip, i have a screwdriver that is on a angle and it makes it a simple job to remove the screw.
angel screwdriver, I used this tool to get the OEM tweeters out of that tight spot between the glass and dash and it has helped me allot with the jeep.
now it was time to cut into the jeep
, i kept the rotary tool at about 2.5 on the speed and worked fine for me. the heater core is to the right of the motor and you have to try your best not to hit it. so just keep the bit in deep enough to cut the plastic. my photos are dark so hard to show the cut lines but the instructions will show you were to cut. both walls have a grove on the bottom so just have to cut out the sides and top.
I took out the first wall and my blend door was fine. then i took out the inner wall and i noted the broken part. Not allot broke on the shaft but enough to stop my passenger side form getting heat.
side view of doors, not to bad for over 7 years old
now it was time to vacuum up as much shavings as i could
taking out the drive connector took some work with the pliers. i had to wiggle it back and forth and pull at the same time to get it out bit i got it.
now i could take out the doors.
the OEM foam was in OK shape so i don't think i have to worry about the blen dor ones. at first i was thinking about putting a coat of duck tape over the doors so it could be more smooth (like teh HT ones) since they are just foam and someone said online that the air might blow them off.
now the Blen dor instructions were a bit odd (to me) so i did the next few parts my way from what i have learned from my mistakes in the past with the motors for the doors.
He provides you with a cable for you to connect one end to the negative battery post and the other to the negative battery terminal after you disconnect them. so when you start the jeep up and play with the knobs you can stop the passenger side drive connector in the right spot and disconnect the power at the right time.
i did not fell like doing this and i discovered something the last time i took off my driver side motor off. I was playing with the system testing things and looking to see if the stopping pin broke or the plastic tabs. so after i turned the jeep off and took off the motor (still plugged it), it started tuning and kept on going till i connected it to the drive connect and the stopping pin had resistance to say this is as far as you go. so i was going to use this method, but first i tried to see if it would move on its own when i moved the knobs and it did not. so i turned off the jeep and held the door over the spot it belonged in and waited to hear the motor turning. when i heard it i was able to pop it in to the groves and it worked out well.
got it going up and got the door in the groves
then you just slip in the other door and push in the drive connector