Draw from PDC fuse #7 killing the battery...04 wj 4.0
So my battery is dying on my 2004 Grand Cherokee (I6) if it's not driven for a few days.
I believe I've tracked it down to the #7 (JB Power) fuse on the power distribution center. But for the life of me I can find what that powers.
I connected my multimeter between the Neg battery post and the Neg cable and once everything goes back to sleep I'm getting about .65A draw. Pull fuse 7 (50A) from the PDC and it drops to .02A-.03A which seems correct to me for the IOD.
I still get that .02A-.03A draw when I pull the IOD fuse (#15) however. it's not till I pull fuse #12 that the draw goes to 0.00A.
I also tried disconnecting the alternator with all the fuses in thinking it might be going and was drawing power when the engine was off but it didn't affect the reading on the multimeter.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
PDC fuse #7 provides power to the junction block under the dash on drivers side. It power fuses #23, 24, 25, and 27 in the junction block and circuit breaker #2. Fuse 27 is export so you should not have that one. Fuse 23 supplies power to the brake lamp switch. Fuse 24 supplies power to the fog lamp relay. Fuse 25 supplies power to the accessory delay relay. Circuit breaker #2 supplies power to your seats for adjustment and heat. Try pulling them one at a time to see which circuit is giving you problems.
Previous Jeeps: 84 CJ7 (A True Jeep), 2000 XJ (163,000 Miles/Totaled (Pictures of wrecked Jeep in gallery)), 2004 WJ (parting out die to major electrical issues)
If you don't have time to do it right the first time, how do you have time to do it over.
And the winner is ... Circuit breaker #2. Which explains why removing all the fuses got me nowhere. I wish my Haynes manual had that diagram, or even mentioned PDC fuse 7. Now to figure out what it is in the seats that is being a pain in my butt.
Figured out what it was. Turned out the flat spring that completes the circuit to move the seat up in center switch, which moves the seat forwards, backwards, up, and down, had failed to rebound when the switch was released and was stuck in the closed position. You could also feel it in the switch. It would click when pushed down but wasn't clicking when pressed up. $10 at the junk yard problem solved.