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Unread 07-17-2013, 07:15 PM   #1
braddf
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: clinton, NC
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Do I need an error eliminator for my hids?

I =m trying to order some bulbs but i don't know what all I need. I'm getting them from here I'm getting 35 watt 10000k for my low beams

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Unread 07-17-2013, 08:46 PM   #2
imaguy3
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Don't get any color other than 4300, 5000 or 6000.... no you don't need an error eliminator...

And please at least get the ebay projectors rather than putting them in your stock headlights.
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Unread 07-18-2013, 03:24 AM   #3
cykaaro
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it'll differ from WJ to WJ. Some have issues, some don't I've one harness it didn't like, one it's fine with. Your choice. What it basically is, is a capacitor so the HID's don't flicker, etc. the retrofit source has a mopar specific harness for this. Regardless, you HAVE to have a harness to run HID's.

10,000k bulb is useless. You lose your light output for sake of pretty unicorn purple colour. 4300k or 5000k as said is what you should use. Even 6000k you lose light output. 4300k gives a more yellow halogenish colour, 5000k gives a white colour. 35watt is all that is needed. You don't need to go 50watt, and in some cases depending on how used can melt plastic housings (ie home made foglights)

Now with all that being said, DO NOT EVER PUT HID'S IN HALOGEN HOUSINGS. You endanger yourself and everyone else on the road. Some municipalities like one near me, actually will ticket you. Halogens work in a particular way and halogen projectors and straight housings are designed for that type of light and how the bulbs are designed. HID's work in a totally different way, as well as being up to 10x brighter. This is why glare is such a big issues. The bowls on HID project light differently and are designed for how the HID bulb is. Take a look at the salts in an HID bulb, and the filament in a halogen. It's quite obvious they produce and emit light totally differently. Now HID in halogen projectors aren't quite as bad, but they still give off glare, but in a different way. Search on google images and you'll see tons of photos showing what happens. As for colour? the blue many think and try to get with different kelvin temps is actually the flicker which is directly due to how the HID is and how the cutoff is that controls how the light is sent. My 5000k gives a bluish cast at the top middle of the cutoff shield. This is indictive of HID's. The best way of doing HID's though is a proper retrofit with projectors that have been tweaked and engineered to get the most out of HID lighting. Most go with the FX-R bi-xenon or mini H1's on the WJ's I've seen.

The other important thing is don't cheap out on bulbs. They are more important than the ballast that runs them quality wise. Cheaper bulbs are more likely to have a greater/noticeable colour shift and don't last as long. Other things is HID's come in only a few sizes. Anything that fits typical halogen housings have been rebased to fit and passed off as a 'plug and play' which really doesn't exist.

Me personally am running morimoto bulbs and ballasts through the retrofit source. Great warranty and haven't had any problems. I've now done three retrofits, and have been dealing with them for quite a while now. Great customer service, will help you decide and design what you want and what you will need, and great warranties. And no, I don't work for them LOL I do like a business who cares about their customers.


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http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
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Unread 07-18-2013, 05:52 AM   #4
imaguy3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cykaaro View Post
Regardless, you HAVE to have a harness to run HID's.



Just to clarify, the error eliminator you talked about is different than a harness that Cykaaro is talking about.

We don't have "bulb out" messages on our WJ to worry about...
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Unread 07-18-2013, 07:46 AM   #5
cykaaro
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Is the error eliminator not to do with the issues with the canbus some run into, especially newer cars? Irregardless though, TRS has a mopar specific harness to deal with any issues with the canbus.
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http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
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Unread 07-18-2013, 12:39 PM   #6
imaguy3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cykaaro View Post
Is the error eliminator not to do with the issues with the canbus some run into, especially newer cars? Irregardless though, TRS has a mopar specific harness to deal with any issues with the canbus.
It's to eliminate any "bulb out" messages or other error messages that may come up. Our Jeeps aren't that advanced...

Mine are hooked directly in without any problems, have been for 2 yrs now.

I thought you were talking about a specific power wire harness... so you're pulling the 12v source from the battery as opposed to through the factory wiring like some people are hesitant to do.

DDM offers those as two seperate options... You can get their power wire harness, or error eliminator seperately.
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Unread 07-18-2013, 05:45 PM   #7
cykaaro
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I thought that was part of the whole canbus problem some have. Capacitor makes it think everything is ok by giving a constant power. But I've known to be wrong LOL but yes, something we don't have to deal with.

But HID's though, take a huge amount of power to start them up, then once on use much less. It's when you turn them on they need a good power draw. Stock wiring isn't a heavy enough gauge, and using a relay protects your stock system wiring, as well as no issues with not enough power for the ballasts. (think of when you have your stereo playing away, and your halogens do the on/dim/on/dim/on/dim thing. It effects HID's different, and namely the ballast)

With our WJ's and later models, what supposedly happens, is that the current 'pulses'. It's something you really would never notice. This causes the relay to go on/off at a very high speed. My low beam bi-xenon was sometimes flickeringon/off on the one side mainly, or wouldn't come on. You can actually hear the relays going on/off at a high rate of speed. Switched out to the set from the others and I'm fine. Not sure why it makes a difference, but it does. Been fine since, where as some getting it happening all the time.
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http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
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Unread 07-19-2013, 12:14 AM   #8
4Tom
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HID relay kit will solve the problem with intermittent starting or flickering HID.

The reason the HID flicker is the stock wiring wasn't designed for higher surge current needed to start the ballast.
As the current increase the voltage drops due to resistances in wiring and stock fuse.

Fitting a relay kit allows the HIDs draw dirrectly from battery.

The eliminators are just load resistors and not needed in the WJ for HID they are only used on vehicles that detect faulty bulbs as they sence the current going to bulbs.
35w HIDs normal bulbs 55w

The only time you need to use eliminators or load resistor is with LED indicators as they draw less current the flashing relay relying on current draw to determine flash rate will flash faster.
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