D35-->D44a axle swap - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 68 Old 08-04-2007, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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D35-->D44a axle swap

So I was looking to add a rear locker and I wasn't plan on locking my D35 so I decided to build up a D44a. I had one shipped down from Washington, threw in an aussie locker & all new brake lines, and finally Kolak's brake upgrade.

I picked the D44a to maintain my ABS/Speedometer sensors & because it is 100% bolt up...

Start with one Jeep and one D35 axle


Add a dash of D44a:


Time to remove the shocks:


Uh oh, I twisted off the bolt heads...out with the grinder for both axle side shock bolts:


The nut WAS welded on...that is the part that needs to be grinded off:


Next I disconnected the e-brake. This is done inside, under the seat and under the carpet. There is a cut out for it. Lift the carpet and for each brake cable coming into the cab, there are three tabs holding it in there. Push the three tabs in and it'll pop out:


In the above pic, I also disconnected the ABS lines (2 x 10mm bolts, 1 per side), and disconnected the brake line. It LEAKS everywhere, it drains from the reservoir so you'll need to stop it. I grabbed my oil absorbant material from my trail repair kit and it absorbed the brake fluid great:


Next I tried to vicegrip some tubing over it, but it still leaked since I didn't have big enough vicegrips.


...So I added some RTV sealant to the end and it sealed up as soon as a little pressure built up in the line. Great, no more leak.

After this brutal Mag-Chloride filled winter, I had lots of rusted bolts so I cleaned them all up, then taped off the threads and painted them all:



'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #2 of 68 Old 08-04-2007, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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I removed the driveshaft, and finally I removed the A-arm and LCA's...Then I pulled out the axle:


This axle is just begging to go in now

It belongs here:

So Up it goes, LCA's and A-arm attached:

Time to install the springs. CRAP, my Teraflex 4" spring may have an issue...look at the small piece I found on the old axle:



Shocks and swaybar on next:

Then the ABS, E-brakes, and brake line.

Tada, now who can figure out what I didn't reconnect at the very end?

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #3 of 68 Old 08-04-2007, 10:39 PM
10achik
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Just a tip for the future, you can stick a golf tee in the end of the brake line to keep it from leaking...that's what i did.

Looks great!

Ken

99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
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2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
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post #4 of 68 Old 08-04-2007, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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I don't golf Good idea though

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #5 of 68 Old 08-04-2007, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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So I had this "thought" months ago. I wonder if my drive shaft will be the wrong size.

I kept putting it off, "ignoring" the "problem"

Well, it is 2" too long

So I could either:
1) Have a local shop modify my drive shaft to be shorter, easy to cut and reweld. This is the cheapest.
2) Have a local shop or Tom Woods build me a new drive shaft that is beefier.
3) Get Tom Woods SYE for the 242 with a new beefier shaft, most expensive @ $500 ($900 - $400 core deposit)...

I am leaning towards option 3 so I could drive off the trail w/o a rear shaft...

I need to see if Teraflex will warranty my springs since they are only 16 months old, I doubt it. If they don't, I'll order a 1" taller spring since my back sits a little low right now, especially with the gear I haul around.

I need to get my Jeep to the dealership to bleed the ABS system. I "hear" that if you get air in the ABS system they need to cycle the abs valves to get air out of them. Right now the brakes "work" but are moderately soft

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #6 of 68 Old 08-04-2007, 11:01 PM
10achik
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I didn't have any problems with the ABS, but it took a few times of bleeding the brakes to get more firm again. Use clear tubing so you can see when all the air comes out.

Ken

99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser

January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
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post #7 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 10:03 AM
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What does the "Kolak brake upgrade" consist of?
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post #8 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Expensive pads & rotors

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #9 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 10:21 AM
BlaineWasHere
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WOW Bling Bling brakes.

2013 FR-S
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post #10 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 01:31 PM
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This is a great write-up! This is the same thing I had planned to do. As far as the driveshaft goes, have you thought about picking up a stock one from a salvage yard? What I mean is one for a GC with 4.7L and Select-track. The pinion neck on the D44a is longer than the D35, thus your driveshaft is too long. Yeah that's what she said

Keep us informed of your progress.

Ah, how beautifully the orchestra sounds before a rain! In a dry sunny day there is no way for the instruments to sound this way!

Last edited by JLH; 08-05-2007 at 02:05 PM.
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post #11 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 02:57 PM
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Nice Ryan! as I was reading I figured you were referring to your drive shaft.

I would just get your old DS cut and re-tubed. You have the 242 correct? I am fairly certain that your tail shaft is sealed anyway, you should not have any fluid leakage. Your tail shaft looks like this correct?



If yours is that style (I was under the impression that all WJ were) you will be fine.

-Tim
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post #12 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 04:24 PM
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Great Writeup!!

2000 WJ Laredo 4.0 4x4 Taupe Frost - Stroker | Clayton LA w/3" Lift | 33's on JK 17's | Axles next
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post #13 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah Tim it is like that, hmm, so no leaking? Cool! I'll try it out tonight.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #14 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 06:13 PM
Silverstonev8
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I have that tom woods sye in mine. its a nice setup but as stated above your stock setup wont leak without a shaft installed.

I had the problem with my rear teraflex springs sagging in the from the day I got them so I returned the rears, kept the fronts. I ended up putting IRO 5.5"rears in with a 3/4 kevins spacer in there and its on the money even at all 4 corners now.(thats with a 33" spare tire and some gear in the back...)

02 WJ, 4.0, 242, 4.56s
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post #15 of 68 Old 08-05-2007, 06:21 PM
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O yea. I forgot to ask what you're going to do with the 35. I plan on breaking some axles now that I have the 33s and 4.56s. Would you be willing to sell me just the shafts?

02 WJ, 4.0, 242, 4.56s
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