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peytonimor7 06-18-2012 06:05 PM

Custom Sub Box Mounting
 
I'm going to be building a custom sub box for a 10" sometime soon and figured that I'll want it flush with the left side of the Jeep in the rear cargo area (looking at the rear of the Jeep) kinda like the JL box does. The sub I'll be using calls for .625 cubic feet sealed. I made a rough mock up of measurements but my Jeep has the net on the left side (It's an 04) and I'd like to keep access to it.

I know there are a good many threads on this but I'm looking for specific boxes that retained the net pouch on the left side. I'm also looking for a clean way to mount the box, but also be able to easily remove it if I'm camping (the bottom will be sealed with fiberglass on the humps from the wheel well).

My current mock up is pretty basic, just a normal rectangular sub box, but with part of it cut down to allow access to the net. I haven't gone so far as to check the cubic feet of my measurements, so if anyone has good subwoofer box software/website that I can input measurements and get out cubic feet, that would be nice.

I'm open to any and all suggestions and if you feel like just showing off your custom box mounted to either side, go ahead. I have alot of constraints for my box but if I'm gonna do it, I'm gonna do it right and please myself with it :2thumbsup:

spud2388 06-18-2012 06:27 PM

All I can say is if you are going to use fiberglass, take advantage of all of the little nooks and crannies around the wheel well. The shape of the box does NOT matter (we are talking about hearing a difference by ear, not looking at the slight changes with a mic on a computer), so use all of the area around the wheel well, fuel filler, etc to get the volume you need. This will allow you to keep the sub as far against the side of the cargo area as possible. This is common sense and I think you would already know this, but i figured it couldn't hurt typing.

On another note, getting the volume once you have a general shape can be difficult with the weird shape of the floor etc. A lot of people use packing peanuts in a 5 gallon bucket to get their desired volume. They figure out how high up in the bucket the desired volume will be and fill it up with the peanuts. This will give you your volume in peanuts and you can manipulate your box to where it will hold all your nuts lol. Just a suggestion though.

peytonimor7 06-18-2012 06:36 PM

Interesting concept... Do you know how many cubic feet I could use give or take a few and still get the desired sound without affecting sound quality? I.E. how exact does the cubic feet have to be?

DeadManWalking 06-18-2012 06:41 PM

To listen to music? In a Jeep? Go buy yourself a VW. :rofl:

peytonimor7 06-18-2012 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeadManWalking (Post 13740520)
To listen to music? In a Jeep? Go buy yourself a VW. :rofl:

No I'm just going to show it off to my homies once I get my 22" spinners installed :rofl:

spud2388 06-18-2012 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peytonimor7 (Post 13740506)
Interesting concept... Do you know how many cubic feet I could use give or take a few and still get the desired sound without affecting sound quality? I.E. how exact does the cubic feet have to be?

Well, since your sub calls for ~.625, then I would go for that. The packing peanuts are just a measuring tool for awkward shaped boxes that their volumes can't be easily calculated. They are to be removed once the box is made. It isn't uncommon for people to build a box that they know is a little bigger, then use the measured amount of peanuts to fill the box, and whatever volume volume isn't filled, throw some extra wood in there to get the desired volume. .625 (plus sub displacement) is a rather small box and should be rather easy to build. When I made my old box, I used to cardboard and built a mock-up of the general shape I wanted, then, taking into consideration the .75" mdf, calculated as best I could what the general volume might be.

I really hope I am not making this seem harder than it really is. I am a firm believer in planning everything out and double checking everything. But at some point, you just gotta get out there and do it. Its always easier to make it bigger and fill in the box than make a small box bigger. Again, just my two cents.

peytonimor7 06-18-2012 07:34 PM

Really good info there. Thanks. Is there software anyone uses to calculate their box? I've heard of it but I feel it won't help in my situation with all the awkward bends and what not. Also, where is the best place to get fiberglass? I'll be getting an amp and sub within a week or two, I may start making a mock up before then.

The sub is a JL Audio and the amp is a RF. 500 RMS sub and about 400 RMS amp (rated at 300, but many reviews say you get 100+ more RMS out of it. Yes, I know it's from a clean 14.4 volts but it's still more than 300)

spud2388 06-18-2012 07:40 PM

I would look online or call around to some local body shops. And a program really wouldn't help you.

narnwv 06-18-2012 08:14 PM

sub'd (pun intended)

I plan on a box in the same location, and want to mount my amp in the box, and maybe my power inverter in the box as well.

peytonimor7 06-18-2012 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by narnwv (Post 13741118)
sub'd (pun intended)

I plan on a box in the same location, and want to mount my amp in the box, and maybe my power inverter in the box as well.

In or on the box? I feel I'll barely have enough room for the box itself and my other amp is underneath the rear seat so I'll prob put my sub amp underneath the driver's side rear seat and find a way to relocate the jack in the spare well (where it should've stayed all along).

Yours is an earlier year so I'm guessing you don't have a net pouch on that side? I used to have an 00' but I forget if a cubby was there or not... That's my main reasoning behind such a complicated box. Hell, I may even make little square cutouts so the hooks on the floor are still usable. I'm just making this more complicated :2thumbsup:

I'll probably be using factory carpet color too if I can find some. Black is overused :D

narnwv 06-18-2012 08:40 PM

no net on my driver's side, but I still have the indent in the molding. From bottom of window, to back of seat, to rear pillar, over to the spare tire opening, should net about 1.5-1.75 cubic feet if my calculations (in my head, no measurements) are correct. Putting things inside will sure reduce that, but adding poly-fill will slow the sound waves, making the box seem larger to the sub.

peytonimor7 06-19-2012 04:24 AM

How does the polyfill work in detail? My *rough* measurements only netted me about .528 cubic feet, and that was from going under the netting.

spud2388 06-19-2012 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peytonimor7
How does the polyfill work in detail? My *rough* measurements only netted me about .528 cubic feet, and that was from going under the netting.

Contray to popular misconception fill in an enclosure mainly provides damping and it's effect on apparent enclosure volume is minimal almost to the point of being irrelevant.

Fill (in the correct amount) will improve the attack and decay characteristics of a driver even if it is in it's "ideal" enclosure volume (there is no ideal), this comes at the cost of peak spl (up to 3db+ in a sealed enclosure).

As for how it works; The air trapped in a sealed enclosure works with the drivers own suspension to form a "spring", fill damps the motion of air molecules in the enclosure like a shock absorber on a car damps the motion of the car's springs, this lowers the resonance (Q) of the system.

Also remember that it's easy to make a box fit were you want, in your case small and discrete. But always make sure you take into consideration the thickness of the wood, should use 3/4"mdf, and that there is a side that has enough surface area for the sub to be mounted too.

peytonimor7 06-19-2012 03:30 PM

Oh ok I somewhat understand. It's not the same thing as Dynamat is it? Sounds somewhat similar, dampening vibrations.

spud2388 06-20-2012 02:43 PM

No. Completely different. Polyfill is the stuff oh put in pillows. Kind of like fluffed up cotton. Dynomat is more of a tar based like material that you apply to surfaces. Polyfill is loosely "stuffed" throughout the box.


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