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Unread 07-15-2013, 09:09 AM   #1
mdavis83
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2001 WJ 
 
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
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Cooling problem

So a few weeks ago I was on my way tithe track with my bike in tow. As I was sitting in line to get in, my jeep started getting hot. To the point that I got out of line and got back on the highway to cool it down. I stopped at a gas station to check the coolant level. The overflow didn't seem low, but not completely full. I popped the radiator cap, which it started spewing so I put it back on. Filled the reservoir and took off. Got back in line at the track and had no issues. I rarely have to sit in traffic so it was hard to tell if the issue was completely resolved at the time. A few times since it has seemed to start getting hot again. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. I'm thinking the thermostat is sticking or something and needs to be replaced. I put a new water pump on it about 2 years ago or less. Does it sound like the thermostat to you guys?

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Unread 07-15-2013, 09:25 AM   #2
WJ4x4LIFE
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Start from the beginning, start it from completely cool and idle it in at home and see what happens.

First and foremost, you need to check for any possible leaks around the common areas, like upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat housing, etc. If there is a leak, well case closed and fix your issue. Not your problem MOVE ON, if it begins to warm up, then turn on the heater full blast and see if it cools down. If is does, then you can now move on to there possibly being a thermostat issue, air in the system(common over years), or the electric fans not kicking on/mechanical fan as well.

*Future advice, NEVER run a HOT car/truck on the highway to cool it down!* ALWAYS turn it off, or TURN ON THE HEATER until it has returned to a safe temperature.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 09:26 AM   #3
schaef89
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Do you have an electric or mechanical fan? Could be that too
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Unread 07-15-2013, 09:29 AM   #4
mdavis83
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I'm not sure if its electrical or mechanical. I believe mechanical. It is working tho. I started it when I was at the gas station to see if it was still getting hot and the fan was running.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 09:31 AM   #5
mdavis83
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It always cools right back down if I'm moving at a reasonable pace that's why I got on the highway. There are no leaks. I checked hoses and they all seem fine
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Unread 07-15-2013, 09:43 AM   #6
schaef89
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Well if its mechancal (physically connected to the motor) you should test out the clutch on it.

Spin it with the engine off and if it spins freely (spins more than 1 revolution) the fan clutch is bad.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 10:12 AM   #7
mdavis83
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I just checked and it is an electrical fan. This is on an 01 grand Cherokee with a 4.0 btw
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Unread 07-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #8
mdavis83
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Is there an air bleed valve on these? I haven't seen one that I recall
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Unread 07-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #9
WJ4x4LIFE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavis83 View Post
It always cools right back down if I'm moving at a reasonable pace that's why I got on the highway. There are no leaks. I checked hoses and they all seem fine
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To ensure that you have no leaks, you can pressure test the system off and go from there. If you have ruled out the following, leaks, air, and physical damage. Then you can move on to the internal break-down and go from there.

A quick question, when was the last time the vehicle had a coolant flush and/or new coolant put in it?

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Unread 07-15-2013, 10:22 AM   #10
mdavis83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ4x4LIFE

---------------------------------------------

To ensure that you have no leaks, you can pressure test the system off and go from there. If you have ruled out the following, leaks, air, and physical damage. Then you can move on to the internal break-down and go from there.

A quick question, when was the last time the vehicle had a coolant flush and/or new coolant put in it?

------------------------------------------------
I put new coolant in when I changed the water pump. So about 2 years max
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Unread 07-15-2013, 10:30 AM   #11
WJ4x4LIFE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavis83 View Post
I put new coolant in when I changed the water pump. So about 2 years max
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The WJ 4.0L I6 does not have a air bleed valve. You lift the front of the vehicle to a 15%/5 inch incline, or a jack is just fine and remove the radiator cap while running for a few minutes.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 10:31 AM   #12
Brakeman62
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Went through this a couple of years ago with my '01 and it turned out to be the electric fan was worn out and running at about half speed. I changed the fan motor and it ran fine. Later I ended up changing the fan relay and the coolant temperature sensor.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 10:37 AM   #13
mdavis83
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I'm not sure that it is the fan motor. I don't know how to check if it is running at full speed. The thing is sometimes my jeep will not get hot when it is idling or sitting in traffic and sometimes it does. It has seemed more often than not it doesn't get hot. I think I am going to start by changing the thermostat and see if that helps
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Unread 07-15-2013, 04:09 PM   #14
schaef89
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I'd bet the motor on the electrical fan is going bad
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Unread 07-15-2013, 04:37 PM   #15
cykaaro
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The biggest issues always seem the fan itself is going, or the fan relay as the #1 causes. After that, you start looking at fan connector, thermostat, air in the system, waterpump.

Fan turns rules out the relay, but doesn't mean the fan isn't an issue. I would drain the system, and put in a new thermostat. Then fill it up and do a proper air bleed of the system. This way you know the thermostat should be good, and the coolant has be refreshed (since you're not draining all of it out). Not expensive, and easy enough to do. There's a few threads on how to bleed the system. (some I've posted on how I do mine) Note that when the engine has been running and is hot, means the cooling system is pressureized. DO NOT REMOVE RAD CAP! Always start from a cool engine, remove the cap and start the engine. As it heats up and circulates, the air will work it's way out. Just keep topping up the coolant as necessary until no more air bubbles out. Any remaining air if there is will work out in a few days and you may need to top up the overflow, butI usually take about 30min to fully bleed and have never had to. There are proper funnels that go where the rad cap go for bleeding the coolant system, but aren't necessary. Just a bit messier is all if you dont' use when coolant bubbles out as the air comes out. (which is normal)
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