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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:02 PM   #1
cmp77
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Coolant change question....

Hey guys today while siting in the bank drive through and noticed my temp guage was straight up at 210 which I have never seen it that high so I bought new coolant and am going to change it and ihave to drive 50 milestone work tonight so I am goin to change it before I go. I am wondering what an acceptable temperature is to open the fill valve and change it. Right now it is at 150

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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:08 PM   #2
metalhead
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210 is normal operating temperature. The thermostat is rated at 195 and when the engine reaches that temperature the thermostat just starts to open. The thermostat fully opens at 20 degrees above 210. So unless its been more than 2 years since the coolant was changed I would not worry about it. I would wait for the temperature to drop to at least 100 degrees or less and have a rag handy and open the cap very slow.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:15 PM   #3
cmp77
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It is a 4.7 idk if that matters and I just bought it 9 months ago so I have no idea when it was done. Thank you it is at 110 now
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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:36 PM   #4
ADragg
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Mine normally runs a bit below 210, but will occasionally creep up to 210 when sitting (like at a bank), since there's no air flow. Not a big deal, but not a bad idea to change the coolant. You probably won't notice a difference and should be fine, but it's not a bad idea to change it. Just don't use any green or orange off-the-shelf coolant. Use Zerex G-05 or the actual Mopar stuff. There might be one other brand that makes an HOAT approved coolant, but not the normal brands you find at Auto Zone (definitely not Prestone). And remember OAT is not the same as HOAT and they're not compatible. Especially since your WJ is an 03, you definitely don't want to run anything but HOAT stuff, so make a trip to the dealership if you have to.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:48 PM   #5
rcwj04
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^ what he said. You can normally find zerex g-05 in napa stores, and if you have time you might as well replace the thermostat too
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Unread 05-06-2013, 06:13 PM   #6
ADragg
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Originally Posted by rcwj04 View Post
^ what he said. You can normally find zerex g-05 in napa stores, and if you have time you might as well replace the thermostat too
Yep, doing the thermostat while the coolant is out is a good idea. I don't know about the thermostats you buy from Napa or Auto Zone or whatever, but the one I bought from the dealership (for the same $30 it would have cost at Auto Zone) while I was already there picking up the pink HOAT Mopar coolant, was an updated part that has a much thicker seal. I'm not sure if the leak I had from the thermostat housing was from running green coolant for a couple years (since that's what the wrong coolant is supposed to do, corrode certain parts) or just from the stock thermostat's seal being thin and eventually not sealing well enough, but the new one has a much thicker seal and replacing the thermostat fixed that leak. I imagine that's why they updated the part with a thicker seal, so I'd take the time to swap it real quick and probably prevent a future leak/drip from the thermostat housing.

By the way, you can drain your old coolant, remove the thermostat and them put the housing/hose back in place and do your system flush MUCH easier and faster with the thermostat out, since you won't have to wait for the thermostat to open up and allow the entire system to circulate. Also remember that approximately half the fluid is retained when you drain the radiator, half of the fluid is used in the heater core, hoses, etc. So if you flush the system several times with water, then when you finally fill the system with coolant, you DON'T dilute it as half the system will already be filled with water and will yield a 50/50 mixture when you fill the radiator with pure coolant. However, some methods for flushing/draining the system might allow you to drain ALL of the coolant, so in that case you would probably use the entire gallon of coolant and then fill the rest of the system with about another gallon of water (I think the entire system uses about 2 gallons, give or take).

I would recommend doing a final flush with the thermostat re-installed and then only drain from the actual radiator drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, which will only allow drainage of about a gallon of water (the contents of the radiator) and that way you can be sure to get that automatic 50/50 mixture. If you use the entire gallon of antifreeze and still need more, top the remainder off with water. Use distilled water for at least the last one or two flushes, preferably.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 06:23 PM   #7
rcwj04
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I've had two thermostats from advance, there premium one ($10)and the economy one ($3), the premium one was junk and never closed so it took fooreeeevvveeerr to warm up, the economy one works perfect. pair that with a new gasket and some rtv and it will never leak
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You forget that most members here don't own a crystal ball to tell you exactly what your problem is, specially with bad pictures that don't say/show much of anything... -Jacko84

Just a 19 year old kid with a Jeep, and broke because of it, and loving every moment.
---------------------------------------------------------------
2004 WJ Laredo 4.0 116k
2" BDS coils & Bilstein 5100's | Addco rear swaybar with energy bushings |
K&N FIPK | glasspack | plasti-dipped badges | 17" moabs | HID's, 245/65/17 Cooper Discover AT3 | Rola rack | Fawkes stand alone shackle tabs | Bed lined interior (what a pain that was)
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Unread 05-06-2013, 07:55 PM   #8
lazyWJ
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See the thread of a couple days ago called "boiling 4 thermostats"
I'm the last person to petition for factory parts at all costs, but the thermostat is a case where aftermarket doesn't always seem to match up quality-wise.
Motorcraft gold is the other acceptable HOAT coolant (besides mopar and zerex g05). You could do a complete flush, I opted to simply do the drain and refill.
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