coolant bleeder stuck! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 32 Old 06-02-2011, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
mckoolkid
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Exclamation coolant bleeder stuck!

iv got a 99 4.7 and the coolant bleeder is stuck, i just put a new water pump and radiator and thermostat in. i couldnt manage to get it open so i ran the engine up to operating temp. with the radiator cap off and filled it as it went down. is this ok? or do i need to be looking into getting the bleeder open?
also im not sure if my e-fan is working or not? i havnt seen it move since around winter time. is there a good way to check it and what are the normal reasons it would crap out on me.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks
Alex

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post #2 of 32 Old 06-02-2011, 01:35 PM
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the typical reason for the e-fan not working is that pesky relay they hid under the headlight. maybe use a test light and test for power at the plug for the fan and then move back from there. sorry, can't help u on the bleeder.

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post #3 of 32 Old 06-02-2011, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
mckoolkid
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does that relay really cost 112 bucks! i just ran to the dealership and thats what they quoted me for... and for some reason its is still running around 212... i thought it would drop down it actually went up after the radiator, pump and thermostat. im thinking about saying screw the relay for now and putting in a switch. obviously id have to turn it off when i park the truck but would this hurt anything?
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post #4 of 32 Old 06-02-2011, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckoolkid2010
does that relay really cost 112 bucks! i just ran to the dealership and thats what they quoted me for... and for some reason its is still running around 212... i thought it would drop down it actually went up after the radiator, pump and thermostat. im thinking about saying screw the relay for now and putting in a switch. obviously id have to turn it off when i park the truck but would this hurt anything?
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post #5 of 32 Old 06-02-2011, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckoolkid2010 View Post
iv got a 99 4.7 and the coolant bleeder is stuck, i just put a new water pump and radiator and thermostat in. i couldnt manage to get it open so i ran the engine up to operating temp. with the radiator cap off and filled it as it went down. is this ok? or do i need to be looking into getting the bleeder open?
also im not sure if my e-fan is working or not? i havnt seen it move since around winter time. is there a good way to check it and what are the normal reasons it would crap out on me.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks
Alex
What bleeder...

You fill the Rad, let the engine warm to operating temp. Air bubbles will be pushing out while this happens. The t-stat will open and your level will drop dramatically. Fill it up until air stops coming out. Put cap back on. Done.

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post #6 of 32 Old 06-02-2011, 09:14 PM
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heat it with a propane torch with a medium flame next time you drain system. When you first apply heat you will see moisture/water drops form. continue untill the moisture burns off, then hit it with penitration oil of your choice and try and remove it. It may take a couple tries.

my friends GMC has the same bleeder setup and his required more heat then expected to loosen, but it came out without messing the allen wrench hole in the plug.
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post #7 of 32 Old 06-02-2011, 09:26 PM
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Im just curious if your clutch fan is working properly?It kinda balances out the temp until the efan comes on.

Also maybe spray some PB Blaster on the bleeder plug,should make it turn if its frozen.

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post #8 of 32 Old 06-02-2011, 09:59 PM
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You will get a check engine light without the relay in tact.


Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy14295 View Post
What bleeder...
The one on top of the timing cover, where the top radiator hose is. You have to bleed from there AND the radiator, or you'll never get all the air out.

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post #9 of 32 Old 06-03-2011, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narnwv View Post
The one on top of the timing cover, where the top radiator hose is. You have to bleed from there AND the radiator, or you'll never get all the air out.
This is very true trust me. My first time getting it out was a PIA. Get a cheater and use some PB. I only hand tighten it now.

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post #10 of 32 Old 06-03-2011, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy14295 View Post
What bleeder...

You fill the Rad, let the engine warm to operating temp. Air bubbles will be pushing out while this happens. The t-stat will open and your level will drop dramatically. Fill it up until air stops coming out. Put cap back on. Done.
4.7's have a Bleeder on the driver side upper radiator hose.

4.0L's the fill and run method works.

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post #11 of 32 Old 06-03-2011, 09:00 PM
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so i went to remove my bleeder plug today and realized it is completely rounded... sooo what now? haha im jsut not quite sure what to do at this point to remove it kinda same deal as op i guess?!
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post #12 of 32 Old 06-03-2011, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeeN
so i went to remove my bleeder plug today and realized it is completely rounded... sooo what now? haha im jsut not quite sure what to do at this point to remove it kinda same deal as op i guess?!
Weld a nut to the raised portion of the plug,and put a wrench on the nut and unscrew it.

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post #13 of 32 Old 06-03-2011, 11:13 PM
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what if i dont have access to a welder?
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post #14 of 32 Old 06-04-2011, 04:34 AM
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what if i dont have access to a welder?
then your buying a new part?

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post #15 of 32 Old 06-04-2011, 06:44 AM
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I would be inclined to leave it alone.

I'm nearly sure if you run the engine with the refill bottle open it burp itself
Just run it long enough until the thermostat opens.

I don't have a 4.7 so you will need to have this confirmed

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