The Comprehensive BDS/FatBob's 2" Lift Thread - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-22-2011, 07:13 PM   #46
billzcat1
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Original thread has too many pictures so I am putting pictures of the upper isolators. They were less collapsed than the front, but easy to replace.

Upper Front


Upper Rear


Assembly with new isolators


Installing the spring isolators requires essentially doing the entire job again (other than completely removing the shocks). So I made my fiancee do it! She has never done ANYTHING to a car other than add oil and gas...never turned a wrench. I made her do everything and SHE did the work in 2 hours. I told her what to do and gave her the tools. That's right, a GIRL with ZERO EXPERIENCE did this. So, get out there and DO IT!



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Unread 01-22-2011, 07:23 PM   #47
Androoos
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Wow that one isolator looked like HELL! I am seriously hoping mine don't look like that. Thanks for the pics now I know what you look for.

I have one question - the bushings that come with the front shocks, does the "bulge" on them face away from eachother or toward eachother? I'm looking at mine now and I can't tell how they'd go. Same question for the "bulge" on the washers too.

BTW she's a keeper. If I told my wife to do that kind of work she'd tell me where I can shove my torque wrench!
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L Selec-Trac: 2" Fat Bob's/BDS Coil Lift, Bilstein 5100 Monotubes, JKS Quick Discos, Rough Country 2.2 Steering Stabilizer, OEM Tow Hooks, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X890
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Unread 01-22-2011, 07:34 PM   #48
billzcat1
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The bushings should have a little "nipple" that will wind up facing each other when assembled. That little protrusion seats in the hole in the body.

Adding pics of the lower isolators (the really bad ones)

Lower Front


Lower Rear
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Unread 01-22-2011, 08:03 PM   #49
Androoos
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Wow those look pretty bad. Hmm. I'm going to gamble and not order the parts until I know it is necessary. But those pics don't instill any confidence!

One more question - would the use of spring compressors make this portion of the job any easier? I'm just thinking down the road if I have to replace the isolators, would it save me any time? I already have them.

Thanks again for all this info and answers, I'll be referring to it often once all of my parts arrive!
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Unread 01-22-2011, 08:31 PM   #50
billzcat1
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No it would actually make the job harder. Spring compressors (even the nice ones) are bulky and awkward. You will NOT need it for this job.
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Unread 01-22-2011, 08:41 PM   #51
outlaw30
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what are your new measurements hub to fender? Looks like that is the source of most of the 'sag' we talk about here?
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Unread 01-22-2011, 09:06 PM   #52
billzcat1
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I posted the new dimensions in the original post. But, you are correct. The spring isolators ARE the source of normal WJ sag. Here is the new info that I added to the original (for all those who are subscribed to the thread).

Spring Isolators
This section is a new addition. My lift wasn't quite as high as I wanted and I had inconsistent lift height all around. After seeing what new isolators looked like, I was certain that mine had really collapsed. The results are perfect. The conclusion I can make: collapsed spring isolators are the real source of WJ sagging. Upper isolators are not as much the problem. My uppers were distorted but not totally junk. The lowers were really quite collapsed.

Here's the part numbers you need:

Upper Front: Mopar: 52088 257AB, Moog: K160040, Raybestos Professional: 5771-704
Lower Front: Mopar: 5208 8401, Moog: K160041, Raybestos Professional: 5771-705
Upper Rear: Mopar: 5208 8346, Moog: K160061, Raybestos Professional: 5771-716
Lower Rear: Mopar: 52088 402AB, Moog: K160042, Raybestos Professional: 5771-706


I went with the Raybestos Professional line over the Moog due to warranty, price, pictures, and reputation. The total cost for spring isolators was right around $100 for all 8 from RockAuto If you are looking to save some coin, just get the lower ones. They are the most important and were far more deformed. I REALLY recommend it so you don't have to do this job twice.

As a side benefit, the level of road noise is also greatly reduced and pothole impacts are much softer. Again, I really recommend replacing these, even if you are just getting a budget boost. You will see better results from any lift or even no lift at all - this will put you back to stock height.

Added to instructions:
7a)If you choose to replace the spring isolators, they just pull right off. They may be kind of crusted on there, so pry them up with a screwdriver or something and then clean off the mount. As mine is a West-Coast car, there is not much rust to speak of. For you East-Coasters, I'm sorry but you will probably have LOTS of rust here and you'll at least want to get out a wire brush and some Hammerite/Rustoleum to encapsulate and neutralize the rust.

Spring seat with spring isolators removed
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

7b)Install spring isolators with tab going into hole on spring seat. The bottoms have a tab on both front and rear axles, but the tops just pop into place.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

Complete list of measurements/results:
Measurements
Front Fender-to-hub Before: 17-3/8"
Front Fender-to-hub After: 19-3/8" (net lift 2")
Rear Fender-to-hub Before: 18-1/4"
Rear Fender-to-hub After: 20-1/4" (net lift 2")
[edit]After New Spring Isolators Installed
Front Fender-to-hub After: 20" (net lift from isolators 5/8")
Rear Fender-to-hub After: 21" (net lift from isolators 3/4")
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Unread 01-22-2011, 09:11 PM   #53
outlaw30
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well done Richard -- thanks a lot.
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Unread 01-23-2011, 02:34 AM   #54
blazepsi
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Great Info! DIY...
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Unread 01-23-2011, 06:05 AM   #55
Androoos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazepsi View Post

Great Info! DIY...
X2. Thanks so much for this.
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Unread 01-23-2011, 06:29 AM   #56
TheBoss
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This makes me want to put new isolators in as well. I would like to know how your Bilsteins hold up to some rough roads. I have already been through 2 sets of shocks now with these coils. And I can't seem to find a happy zone. We have some TERRIBLE roads here in the midwest ,so daily driving is like a washboard. I blew out another front shock the other day. The RC nitro's are like riding in a Radio Flyer being pulled by Ivan Stewart through Baja!
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[SIZE="1"]JK : AEV, Synergy, JKS, Teraflex, Bilstein, GoodYear, M.B, LoD, Ramsey, Hella, Uniden, Smitty-re-bilt rails, Safari Straps
:sold:WJ : BDS, Teraflex, JK Rubicon shocks, GoodYear, JK wheels :sold: [/SIZE]


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Unread 01-23-2011, 06:35 AM   #57
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Forgot to ask you if the rear shocks needed any modification in the upper mount. And the front upper bushings look very nice compared to the ones that came with mine.
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[CENTER][COLOR="black"][/COLOR][COLOR="Cyan"]My JK Build thread [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wanderlust-thebosss-jku-build-1483041/[/url][/COLOR][/CENTER]
[SIZE="1"]JK : AEV, Synergy, JKS, Teraflex, Bilstein, GoodYear, M.B, LoD, Ramsey, Hella, Uniden, Smitty-re-bilt rails, Safari Straps
:sold:WJ : BDS, Teraflex, JK Rubicon shocks, GoodYear, JK wheels :sold: [/SIZE]


[COLOR="Black"][CENTER][SIZE="4"][FONT="Showcard Gothic"][COLOR="Black"][URL="http://groups.jeepforum.com/built-not-bought/"][COLOR="Black"]Built Not Bought #690[/COLOR][/URL][/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]
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Unread 01-23-2011, 09:19 AM   #58
radryan505
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I have a the 2" BB from Bob's, would there be anything I would need to take into consideration, outside of the grade of shocks if i wanted to add these springs on my BB kit, totalling about 4"?
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Unread 01-23-2011, 10:42 AM   #59
billzcat1
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@TheBoss - I haven't had any issues with the upper rear mounts thus far. I will update if anything comes up.
I've only had this together a week so yeah, the Bilsteins are holding up fine. However, I can attest to their durability in my other Jeep which has had Bilstein HDs for 3 years. I put it through horrible conditions as well as off-roading and they have never had a problem, even going to the limits of their travel. They also have a lifetime warranty, so really one set of Bilsteins should be the last you'll ever have to buy.

@radryan - Don't just stack springs on a budget boost. When you go to 4" lift, there is SO much more you need to do than just springs/spacers and shocks. Things like adjustable track bar, longer sway bar end links, adjustable/longer control arms, rear a-arm spacer, and possibly even a new driveshaft (depending on which shaft you have now). Piecing together a 4" lift like this is only going to give you nightmares and will be very prone to Death Wobble. In the end, a 4" lift kit from a reputable manufacturer will be much safer and probably much cheaper to boot. If you want to go to 4", sell the budget boost and buy a real 4" lift kit.
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Unread 01-23-2011, 11:41 AM   #60
hxcjohnny
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hey man, did you get a chance to get an after pic with the new parts?
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