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Unread 01-03-2013, 09:52 AM   #31
LilLuKe
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Honeapath, SC
Posts: 610
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickey85
Never mind...
Why even post if your just going to say "Nevermind"?

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Unread 01-04-2013, 07:17 PM   #32
wjjeepman34
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Birch Run, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imaguy3 View Post
Hate to say it, but I think while you were in there and doing your work (which I still don't think was needed), you caused the timing to jump just a bit, intentionally or not. Then when you started it back up the valves hit pistons and bent them (it's an interference motor).
Unfortunately, I'm going with this ^. Letting one (or both) of the cams' tension off of them will cause them to rather quickly and harshly spin towards their "free" area, unless the engine was at TDC, exhaust stroke (might be ignition stroke, I'm not 100% sure I can't remember this exact moment). Seen it happen, luckily nothing was bent/broke in that case.
Not saying you did bud, but it doesnt take much with the force of the springs on the cam.


Quote:
Originally Posted by XJNKY View Post
They are surprisingly easy to work on though. It's almost like they knew you'd be tearing it apart every 70K miles.
Agreed! Although I think I'm good at every 100K miles, but I'm pretty religious on my maintenance.
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04 WJ 4.7 V8-Fully loaded, K&N FIPK, V-force muffler, Duratracs, OME HD coils, Bilsteins, JKS track bar, JKS quicker disconnects, IRO aux mounted SS, Rear sway bar delete, Custom winch bumper.
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Unread 01-04-2013, 07:19 PM   #33
wjjeepman34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilLuKe View Post
Why even post if your just going to say "Nevermind"?
He may have posted something that someone already covered, and since he is a free member he doesn't have the ability to delete his post.
Just a guess though.
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04 WJ 4.7 V8-Fully loaded, K&N FIPK, V-force muffler, Duratracs, OME HD coils, Bilsteins, JKS track bar, JKS quicker disconnects, IRO aux mounted SS, Rear sway bar delete, Custom winch bumper.
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Unread 01-04-2013, 07:25 PM   #34
LilLuKe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjeepman34

He may have posted something that someone already covered, and since he is a free member he doesn't have the ability to delete his post.
Just a guess though.
Makes sense. I just don't really like unhelpful 1 word post that people just throw up.
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Unread 01-05-2013, 06:33 AM   #35
wjjeepman34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilLuKe View Post
Makes sense. I just don't really like unhelpful 1 word post that people just throw up.
Yeah I hear ya. Usually if I do the same I try to think of something to put in there, whether its more advice or just agreeing with someone and quoting them. Try to make it look somewhat interesting anyway
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04 WJ 4.7 V8-Fully loaded, K&N FIPK, V-force muffler, Duratracs, OME HD coils, Bilsteins, JKS track bar, JKS quicker disconnects, IRO aux mounted SS, Rear sway bar delete, Custom winch bumper.
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Unread 01-25-2013, 10:11 PM   #36
tommyooooooh
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So I figured id post an update incase anyone was interested. The jeep has been in the shop for 3 1/2 weeks with one problem after another.After a compression test there was low compression across the board especially on 5 out of 8 cylinders. Pulled valve covers and timing cover and checked timing and it looked fine. The sludge however was terrible. We pulled oil pan and found some things. A valve stem keeper was buried in this rock hard sludge in the pan along with a bolt. Haha a bolt that the shop said didn't match any other bolt in the engine bay. They think it was a junk yard engine that was swapped into it and that the engine ran on pennzoil and never got changed. Also had a cracked intake manifold with a hole in it. Both the crack and whole were on the bottom of the IM.
I decided to go with a remanufactured engine instead of redoing the heads, timing kit, oil pump, and everything else then having bottom end problems. After going over numbers with the shop it seemed like the best bet was to spend an extra 1500 and have a remanufactured engine with an unlimited mile warranty for 3 years. Warranty also includes one replacement engine if something happens to this one(no matter what the cause) plus shop fees covered, tow fee, rental car, and a hotel for 2 nights. Amazing warranty which will calm my nerves for the next 3 years.
Hoping to get the jeep back Monday if theres no more problems. Such as the water pump and the intake manifold. Sorry for the novel but did try to sum it up as shortly as possible.
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Unread 01-25-2013, 11:42 PM   #37
WThorn
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Not what I wanted to read about on my first search tonight for my upcoming timing set swap at 260k miles. I'm nervous enough.
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Unread 01-26-2013, 12:12 AM   #38
tommyooooooh
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Sorry man. Id just make sure u got a book and read up on here. Id also make sure u got a garage with space and take time i rushed through and then had problems and didn't have time to keep doin it myself. Thought a shop woulda been faster but guess not. Its a major pain though
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Unread 01-26-2013, 08:18 AM   #39
mickey85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJNKY View Post
Hey, late to the game, but maybe some pertinent advice(?)
I had a Durango with the 4.7, and I basically used this forum to answer questions about that engine. A previous owner had used loctite on a champion plug. That plug came out in 3 pieces. 2 pieces in my garage, and the final piece at the machine shop, so I know the pain of tearing the top half of the engine off. They are surprisingly easy to work on though. It's almost like they knew you'd be tearing it apart every 70K miles.

Few things:
1. I hate that engine
2. They are apparently very prone to sludging up (and overheating). I recommend using only synthetic oil (detergents) and the occasional use of extra detergent in the crankcase soon before an oil change (I use seafoam). By the time we got rid of that Durango, the inside of that engine was spotless, no more sludge, and despite what all the mechanics told me, it didn't leak a drop from any seal.
3. If you only started it and ran it for a minute after noticing coolant in the oil, you might not be that bad off. I remember pricing entire heads for $5-600 (?) If the engine is still turning over, you might just be able to do a few oil flushes, replace that head (time it correctly this time) and be back good as new. If you're really concerned, you can drop the oil pan and pull a few bearings to check the clearances, and check for wear. If you don't know what you're doing, research it. Plastigauge and a torque wrench is all you really need.
4. I hate that engine
I think we're in a small group of 4.7L haters
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Unread 01-26-2013, 08:19 AM   #40
mickey85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilLuKe View Post
Why even post if your just going to say "Nevermind"?
I had planned on saying that the tick/knock might be an exhaust leak or relay that had gone bad, but apparently the tick is bent valves. I posted that after skimming and not having seen about the valves. I couldn't figure out a way to delete the post, so I edited it to keep from being redundant.
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It's true, you never forget your first Jeep. - 1999 Cherokee - 188,000 miles. DOA.

The Albatross - 2004 WJ Laredo 4.7, clackety lash adjusters, 3 gallons of antifreeze on the floorboard, 109,000 mile daily driver.
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Unread 01-26-2013, 10:26 AM   #41
WThorn
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I had a walk through/how to that listed the tools and steps with pictures but I have no idea where the file went too so I'm back to getting my instructional resources together....My dad offered to help and I told him if it was like his small block Chevy it would have been done by now...thinking I'll dive into it in the next few weeks
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Unread 02-06-2013, 05:51 PM   #42
tommyooooooh
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well finally got the jeep back a couple days ago and all I can say is wow. I swear my mileage be way offf. The new engine feels like it has 3 times as much power as the old one. With the old engine I had stock wheels/tires and on the new engine it has 4" lift and 265/75r16 on pro comp 7069 and it pulls stronger then ever. Overall I'm happy with results just not the money spent. Now its time to get all my bump stop problems figured out so i can go offloading and see what it can do.
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