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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WJ Grand Cherokee Forum > chain guide and tensioner

Advance Adapters SYE KitsARTEC JK UNDER ARMOR - 4 door Bellypan Kits~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 12-30-2012, 06:09 PM   #16
tommyooooooh
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: St.George, Utah
Posts: 89
so i changed the guides and the tensioner on the passenger side of the engine compartment put the jeep back together and started. The tick is still there and noticeable. Its Not as loud and doesn't last for a long time which is a good thing. But i made a stupid mistake of not changing oil before starting and i think that a little bit of coolant got in there. I hope thats not to bad of a thing to happened? any input. not a ton of fluid wither just the small amount that would go in the pan while pulling the cover.

So any way jeep started perfect and ran perfect as usual( except the a little bit of tik) but things went sour fast. After I had it idling for about a minute i revved it up a little bit and then i hear a weird grinding nose. almost like a belt rubbing another belt extremely fast. kind of sounds like a bad bearing or something on one of the alt,water pump, p/s pump, or something i have no idea. I shut it off almost instantly so i could have my dad start it while i listened and then the jeep wouldn't start. Im stumped. I pulled the valve covers and everything looks fine besides clean oil with a greenish tint. As Far as timing goes I'm lost. all the timing looks pretty good but when I look at the v8 mark on passenger side it almost looks like it could rotate a hair to be at noon. I'm talking 11:57 to 12:00 off not sure if its far snout away to even be off a tooth or if my eyes are just a little off. Hard to say what exactly noon is. i just no its super close.

Over all doesn't make since to me for it to run fine one second then not start up and make a weird noise. Even if a bearing went out on something i would think it would still fire back up without a problem. i also don't get how it could have skipped a tooth. it was running so damn good till it made the sound and i shut it off. I'm at the point of blowing up the jeep with dynamite. it has drained my wallet dry and now i have another problem>

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Unread 12-30-2012, 07:48 PM   #17
wjjeepman34
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Birch Run, MI
Posts: 261
Check the asd relay and fuse.
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04 WJ 4.7 V8-Fully loaded, K&N FIPK, V-force muffler, Duratracs, OME HD coils, Bilsteins, JKS track bar, JKS quicker disconnects, IRO aux mounted SS, Rear sway bar delete, Custom winch bumper.
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Unread 12-30-2012, 08:44 PM   #18
tommyooooooh
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Location: St.George, Utah
Posts: 89
where is the add relay and fuse and how do i go about checking them.
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Unread 12-30-2012, 08:54 PM   #19
tommyooooooh
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Location: St.George, Utah
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If when I check the timing tomorrow and put it back together and check the suggested relay if it doesn't start i may have it towed to a shop. Im sick of dealing with the jeep and need it running asap for work. I just need them to make it run so i can drive it. anybody ever have to replace there oil pump?
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Unread 12-31-2012, 05:29 AM   #20
wjjeepman34
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Yeup, did mine. It's not to bad of a job, just take your time, mark your sprockets and chains, it can get very tedious. But if you just take it slow, one step at a time, you will be good. If you don't have a Haynes manual, get one, they are pretty explanatory on how to do the oil pump.

Worst part is getting your exhaust apart to drop the oil pan, it is "supposed to" come apart at the y (from the connect from the manifolds to the y, basically your "headers"). I ended up cutting mine apart, and taking it to a muffler shop when I was done so they could re-weld it (I dont know how to weld), plus it gave me an excuse to get a louder muffler on it.

Your jeep will look like this, maybe cleaner...lol I wish I would have taken more pictures in order to do a how-to, as it seems more and more people are going into their jeep this far for a few different reasons. But, I needed to get her back on the road, so I wasn't wasting much time.





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04 WJ 4.7 V8-Fully loaded, K&N FIPK, V-force muffler, Duratracs, OME HD coils, Bilsteins, JKS track bar, JKS quicker disconnects, IRO aux mounted SS, Rear sway bar delete, Custom winch bumper.
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Unread 12-31-2012, 05:33 AM   #21
wjjeepman34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
where is the add relay and fuse and how do i go about checking them.
Sorry missed this one. The fuse and relay is in the PDC on the passenger side of the vehicle, just behind the battery. There is a little diagram to show you what is what. To test the relay, just swap it out with another one that you dont necessarily need to run the vehicle (like heater or a/c, I cant remember whats all there). The fuse should also be labeled, pull it, you will tell if its blown or not.
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04 WJ 4.7 V8-Fully loaded, K&N FIPK, V-force muffler, Duratracs, OME HD coils, Bilsteins, JKS track bar, JKS quicker disconnects, IRO aux mounted SS, Rear sway bar delete, Custom winch bumper.
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Unread 12-31-2012, 11:27 AM   #22
tommyooooooh
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sounds good I'm draining the oil to change it now. I think that having some coolant in it might have been what caused it to start. oil looks milky just like it would of if i had a blown head gasket. can't believe i was dumb enough to start it after knowing i had cool an in the oil. My mechanic friend is going to come over in a couple hours and look at the timing to either verify I'm crazy or that the timing is a tooth off. then put back together and try to start and diagnose and see what the super loud grinding/buzzing sound i heard was. hoping it wasn't the oil pump saying f u because of coolant being in the oil. Then go form there.

worst part is i decided to be another genie pig for the rc long arm kit and ordered it and got new wheels and tires spent all the money i did have on it then i got the engine noises bad and it became time to fix. haha the dub just has to play games with my emotions like that. work great till i have no money and buy her stuff then bamn everything goes wrong. (lift kit install was a nigh mare. every bolt was so rusted i couldn't get them off. ended up being very time consuming and i haven't put the rear arms on yet waiting to burrow a lift.
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Unread 12-31-2012, 04:43 PM   #23
tommyooooooh
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I gave up today have to many other things going to do last thing I need to be doing all day is freezing and getting nowhere working on jeep playing the guessing game. So jeep gets towed to shop wednesday at 8:00am and well see what they diagnose and determine as the problem.
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Unread 01-02-2013, 06:37 PM   #24
tommyooooooh
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So word from shop is bent valves. Fml. So looks like a new engine maybe the best bet. 2400 for a rebuilt engine
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Unread 01-02-2013, 06:44 PM   #25
LilLuKe
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Is the engine running rough or is it just ticking? If its not running rough then I'd just drive it til it dies if your going to replace the engine anyway.
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Unread 01-02-2013, 07:52 PM   #26
tommyooooooh
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It isn't running at all now. I don't its in the shop so I'm not sure how much it would cost yet to get it running so i can drive it till it blows. Im just worried about just fixing the heads and having the bottom let go after that. I have seen that happen to a lot of people. Plus the amount of time in labor to pull the engine is probably close to the same as doing both the heads. plus rockauto rebuilt engines have a 3 year unlimited mile warranty which would be a nice peace of mind that wouldn't come me personally rebuilding it. Current engine has lots of sludge in it too. previous 2 owners must of never changed the oil. I've had it since 63,000 and it now has 68,000. joke. was amazed to see sludge when i pulled the valve covers. my old zjs 5.2 was spotless at 180,000.
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Unread 01-03-2013, 05:06 AM   #27
imaguy3
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Hate to say it, but I think while you were in there and doing your work (which I still don't think was needed), you caused the timing to jump just a bit, intentionally or not. Then when you started it back up the valves hit pistons and bent them (it's an interference motor).
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Unread 01-03-2013, 05:26 AM   #28
XJNKY
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Hey, late to the game, but maybe some pertinent advice(?)
I had a Durango with the 4.7, and I basically used this forum to answer questions about that engine. A previous owner had used loctite on a champion plug. That plug came out in 3 pieces. 2 pieces in my garage, and the final piece at the machine shop, so I know the pain of tearing the top half of the engine off. They are surprisingly easy to work on though. It's almost like they knew you'd be tearing it apart every 70K miles.

Few things:
1. I hate that engine
2. They are apparently very prone to sludging up (and overheating). I recommend using only synthetic oil (detergents) and the occasional use of extra detergent in the crankcase soon before an oil change (I use seafoam). By the time we got rid of that Durango, the inside of that engine was spotless, no more sludge, and despite what all the mechanics told me, it didn't leak a drop from any seal.
3. If you only started it and ran it for a minute after noticing coolant in the oil, you might not be that bad off. I remember pricing entire heads for $5-600 (?) If the engine is still turning over, you might just be able to do a few oil flushes, replace that head (time it correctly this time) and be back good as new. If you're really concerned, you can drop the oil pan and pull a few bearings to check the clearances, and check for wear. If you don't know what you're doing, research it. Plastigauge and a torque wrench is all you really need.
4. I hate that engine
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Unread 01-03-2013, 05:29 AM   #29
XJNKY
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Also... if you try to just fix the engine that's in there (what I'd do if it were mine), and have to pull a head... pull both. Have both milled back flat. They will be warped, I promise. My machine shop guessed what the heads were before I told them what they were from. Apparently they see a lot of them. I also spent the extra few $$ and had the exhaust manifolds flattened back out (also warped).
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Unread 01-03-2013, 08:24 AM   #30
mickey85
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Location: Culver, IN
Posts: 189
Never mind...
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