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Unread 10-18-2010, 04:33 PM   #1
xJoshxx
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Carolina Driveshaft Woe's

I don't really wanna change my yokes out on my Grand Cherokee.

I recently Inquired About getting a Front Drive shaft With the flanges and this what i was told from Carolina Drive shaft.

Part 1.

Hi Josh.
We offer a shaft that you have to change the yokes at both the axle and the transfer case. This shaft is $318.00 for greaseable u-joints and $333.00 for solid Spicer u-joints. This price includes both yokes.
Please let me know if you have any questions or need additional information.
Thanks much for the inquiry.
My response.
I was more interested in using the Flanges at both ends as I don’t want to change the yokes was looking
Like pictured in this thread on Jeepforum

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/w...ctures-806580/

has the Flanges on each side.
Part 2
We don't recommend the direct replacement for vehicles with a 4" lift. We can sell you one, but we can't warranty against vibrations or if the ears on the flange snaps. The price on this is $298.00 with greaseable u-joints and $323.00 with solid Spicer u-joints.


SO for those of you that have the flanged Drive Shaft from them. do you have Vibes? or problems? i am Extremely Worried about changing the yoke. specially on the front diff.

I have no experience of any kind messing with diffs and i DO NOT want this $300 venture to turn into 1000.

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The SRt-8's are a liberty design.
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Unread 10-18-2010, 05:42 PM   #2
xjfever
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You could take it to a driveline shop to have the axle yoke swapped if it is scary for you, the t-case yoke is easy and doesn't have a preload set by a crush sleeve. Just remove and replace, then put your new shaft in.
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Unread 10-18-2010, 06:21 PM   #3
sicWJofNWA
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hey I'm running a Carolina front DS and i wanted to get the adapter flanges as well but when i ordered mine they were out. so i went with the new yoke package. i was a little nervous when it came time to install the new front yoke but here is what i did. i counted the threads that were exposed on the pinion shaft, took a pic of the orientation of the pinion nut, then went at it with an impact. when it came time to put the nut back on i was just careful not to go crazy with it. that was form months ago and no issues. recently changed the fluid up front and there was no metal in it so all is good. just be careful and do not rush things when putting that nut back on.
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Unread 10-18-2010, 07:30 PM   #4
phant0omx
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I was running a J.E. Reel front drive shaft with a flange adapter at the pinion at 4" without any issues at all. I had the one at the transfer case switched to a u-joint yoke flange. I had wanted both sides u-joint, but J.E. Reel made it with a flange adapter in the front, when I asked about the difference between flange adapter and conventional u-joint, I was the flange adapter was actually stronger.

So again, no problems at 4" with the flange adapter.
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Unread 10-19-2010, 10:35 AM   #5
xJoshxx
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Cause I not a Crazy HardCore wheeler. and i really do fear screwing up the Front diff.

Just worries me that They won't warranty it against Vibes or if an ear comes off the Flange? .

From the pictures i've seen you would have to REALLY rape the shaft to get a ear to come off

like seen here
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Originally Posted by moPowered View Post
The SRt-8's are a liberty design.
2011 WK2 ORA2
2012 WK2 SRT8
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Unread 10-19-2010, 12:36 PM   #6
skain8
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I would avoid the flange style. Heavier, and more prone to balance/vibration issues by the nature of the design.

As mentioned above, go to a local driveline shop, which would probably charge no more than $50 to *properly* change the pinion yoke. The transfer case yoke is a no-brainer (no crush sleeves or preload to deal with). Get a junkyard Dana/Spicer cv driveshaft (i.e. double cardan) and save yourself even more money with better quality than aftermarket. Locally here in PA, WJ cv shafts can be had for as low as $55! Put fresh quality joints in it (if necessary) and you're still at around $100. Also, the stock front cv shaft is the proper length even at 4" lift. I speak from personal experience.
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Unread 10-19-2010, 12:42 PM   #7
phant0omx
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Well, I'm not much of a hardcore wheeler either, so I suppose depending on your level of wheeling may determine what you should do?

I've read in the past some people like having a flange at the pinion because if a rock hits it the flange takes the beating instead of the u-joint and ears. Whether it's true I am unsure of.

I hope someone with more experience chimes in.

Perhaps you can call around and see what other driveline shops say?

Replied while skain8 replied, he makes good points.
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Unread 10-19-2010, 01:29 PM   #8
WiCkeDuDe
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changing the pinion is really not all that hard if you mark it and are careful about it.
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Unread 10-21-2010, 11:40 AM   #9
xJoshxx
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Bump

So from what i have gathered in my searching of the other 4 common sites and my manual.

Crush Sleeve is 500ftlbs MAX and barely starts to crush at 170ftlbs

my manual states to lift the jeep take tires and brakes off then measure In lbs it takes to rotate the yoke. then you undo the Pinion yoke. put the new on torque to where you think it was. measure the force required to rotate it. continue torquing till they match?

Now thats a of work lol what about just removing the tires and jacking it up and doing the same.

I know on the T-case you just unbolt and rebolt.

Carolina Driveshaft has to make things complicated and not warranty the DS if i get the flange adapters.

Which is #1 reason why i contacted them!.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moPowered View Post
The SRt-8's are a liberty design.
2011 WK2 ORA2
2012 WK2 SRT8
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Unread 10-21-2010, 11:46 AM   #10
WiCkeDuDe
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You will find to that the nut will tighten up very fast until the crush sleeve snugs up and "crushes" back to where it was. From there you just need to go a little bit more to add some additional crush. Thats why its good to mark it. It takes a very little amount to put too much preload on the bearings. The best way is to measure the preload, but you need a needle type rotary torque wrench in inch pounds.
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Unread 12-29-2010, 04:57 PM   #11
volvite
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xJoshxx; what did you end up doing for your drive shaft? I have to replace mine now. The CV at the transfercase boot blew and is getting louder and louder. I called Carolina and they told me about the yoke/shaft replacement, but I too am not too sure about replacing the yokes. I'd love to unbolt the flange and rebolt the new replacement. Shoot me a pm if you would.
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Unread 12-30-2010, 12:24 PM   #12
mrJ
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x2^ the PO had a carolina on this that he said was so bad he took it off. im looking at tom woods for when i do it
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Unread 12-30-2010, 01:37 PM   #13
patrick983
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the flange is a short cut, if you're into doing things the wrong way or half-a__ing then go for it but it WILL vibe, thats why they don't recommend it on lifted WJ's, the angle is pretty extreme, the flanges make the shaft shorter and therefore, the angles even more extreme. CD has been making these shafts for our jeeps for a long time with a nearly perfect reputation. more than we can say about the other brands out there.

theres tons of write-ups on the pinion yoke/crush sleeve debate, i personally zipped mine off with my impact and zipped it right back on, and havent had any problems, but to each his own. even if you're scared having a shop do it so you cna get the RIGHT shaft on would be well worth the little bit of extra money. i'd be scared to even hit the gas too hard with one of those flanges.
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Unread 12-31-2010, 10:12 AM   #14
skain8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrJ View Post
x2^ the PO had a carolina on this that he said was so bad he took it off. im looking at tom woods for when i do it
Two wrongs don't make a right.
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Unread 12-31-2010, 10:14 AM   #15
mrJ
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explain? i was going to go with the whole she-bang, not just one or two parts
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