A/C woes. Am I screwed? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 06-24-2013, 02:24 PM   #16
lazyWJ
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With the shim in place, did you try whacking the clutch while the AC is on and engine running? If it grabs, you've still got a clearance problem. It sounds like the clutch might be toast though. You can replace the clutch without emptying the system though, so I would try that first. Incidentally, while it was running all the time was it cooling? If not then you might have a compressor issue as well. Also remember that if the system is in auto or defrost mode the compressor may run with regardless of whether or not the AC button is toggled on or off.

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Unread 06-24-2013, 03:24 PM   #17
multmigs
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When i put the clutch back on with no shim and the compressor was turning i immediately got cold air in the cabin, and I'm working on this in 90 deg temp, within a few minutes of it running the low side gauge i had on it was showing 40lb? and was stable, the one pipe going to the evap core was very cold and sweating so i took all that to mean the compressor is fine and there is no leak to the system. I have looked around trying to find just the clutch parts but it almost seems to be worth it to just buy the whole compressor, I'm thinking maybe i will do that and remove the clutch from that and swap it out just to verify its actually the problem before spending the time and $$ of emptying the system etc.
I did try the wack the clutch while its running trick and I've seen that work before and this time it did not. Also the clutch is semi noisy while rotating it by hand with the belt off, again makes me think the problem is inside there.
I also am stuck on how the clutch comes off the front of the compressor which is a tight fit behind the radiator fans and lines but I did manage to get the giant snap ring off and thought it would allow the clutch and pulley to come off but they are not moving yet? Rust I'm thinking>?
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:48 PM   #18
narnwv
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all that's needed to diagnose an A/C system issue in your driveway:

-proper manifold gauges.
-multi-meter
-leak detector

EDIT:

all that's needed to fix it after the diagnosis:
-the part(s) that need replaced
-vacuum pump
-the same manifold gauges
-your personal favorite flavor of refrigerant. I use Advance Auto Parts' R134a, and a wee bit of C3H8, as it boils at a lower temp, and gives a quicker cold air.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:59 PM   #19
multmigs
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[QUOTE
After the statement above I will no longer post. And yes I have the know how, tools and schematics to perform these types of repairs. Good Day.[/QUOTE]

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Unread 06-24-2013, 10:09 PM   #20
PICKLEPUSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wncYJ View Post
I have posted this statement before and will post it again;

I would recommend taking it to a QUALIFIED AUTO AC technician, if you do not know what you are doing you CAN cause more damage than good!
how bouts you take my balls to a technician.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 10:22 PM   #21
pinky2252s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wncYJ View Post

And this type of post is why this forum is going to ****.
Don't be mad cause YOU don't have the skills.
Okay, then don't come into a thread telling him to just go take it to a mechanic. Thats not what this forum is for. If anything, this forum is going to **** because of people like you just telling them that they don't know as much as you so they need to take it to a mechanic.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 05:19 AM   #22
86cj74.2L
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The low side switch is on the filter drier. Just before the piping goes into the firewall. That is the one you jump with a paper clip. Its threaded on to the filter drier at a schrader port with a o-ring.

The three wire unit is the pressure transducer. Its used to control the fan speed on the newer WJ's with the variable speed fans. Hydraulic on the V8 most defiantly and I believe the E fan on the 4.0 too. The FSM doesn't say V8 only for the transducer.

Depending on ambient temp 40psi on the low side is OK, as long as your holding the engine above 1300 rpms, if your looking at that psi at idle its most likely undercharged. And if your starting with a empty system two 12oz cans of 134a will give you a full charge.

Also having 12v at the connector may not mean anything. Most times power is always applied to things and the ground is switched on and off to control it. There is also a relay in the under hood junction box that could be bad.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 07:22 AM   #23
lazyWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post

Also having 12v at the connector may not mean anything. Most times power is always applied to things and the ground is switched on and off to control it. There is also a relay in the under hood junction box that could be bad.
This is good advice, switched grounds are the most common way to control these things so check for voltage across both pins. It can be very frustrating otherwise!
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Unread 06-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #24
multmigs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
The low side switch is on the filter drier. Just before the piping goes into the firewall. That is the one you jump with a paper clip. Its threaded on to the filter drier at a schrader port with a o-ring.

Also having 12v at the connector may not mean anything. Most times power is always applied to things and the ground is switched on and off to control it. There is also a relay in the under hood junction box that could be bad.
There is NO LOW SIDE SWITCH on my 2003 system that I can find on the drier or elsewhere... I'll go take a pic for you

And I'll try the voltmeter again as I'm pretty sure I was just checking the positive to engine ground
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Unread 06-25-2013, 10:39 AM   #25
lazyWJ
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Just discussing this in another thread... as far as I'm aware the low pressure switch used on the 99-01 was dropped in 02+ when they reconfigured the AC system.
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