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Unread 02-25-2013, 01:59 PM   #1
ChrisHager
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Springfield, Illinois
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Brake Rotor and Pad Install

This past weekend, I tackled the brakes on my WJ. As usual, I took a bunch of pictures for anyone needing instructions on how to do this. The focus of this install is the front as I changed out the rotors and pads. I took pictures of the rear install as well though it only involves switching out the pads. I didn't get as many pictures of the rear either as I was hurrying to finish up. I'll leave place holders in this thread for future updates for the rear (parking shoe and rotor replacement).

Front

Rear

Also, when installing new pads, be sure to follow the instructions for breaking them in. I had to do a series of 45-0 stops to bed mine in.

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His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 02-25-2013, 01:59 PM   #2
ChrisHager
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2004 WJ 
 
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Location: Springfield, Illinois
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Front Brakes

Tools/Supplies:

Floor Jack
Jack Stands
19MM Socket
18MM Socket
17MM Socket
Ratchet
10MM Wrench
Pliers
Flat Head Screw Driver
Wire Brush
Grease
Rubber Mallet
C-Clamp
Brake Cleaner
Paper Towels
Clear Hose
Cup/Container

Jack up the WJ and rest it on Jack Stands. Remove the tire (19MM, 18MM if the caps have fallen off).



Remove the bolts attaching the caliper to the caliper bracket (2 17MM bolts).



Pop off the caliper. I used a screw driver to help a little.



If it doesn't come off easily, it may be necessary to loosen the bleeder valve in order to relieve some pressure.

Bleeder Valve



The front bleeder valve is loosened with a 10MM wrench.



Caliper removed - be sure to hang this up and out of the way. You don't want to let it dangle from the brake line.



Once the caliper is off, remove the caliper bracket (2 18MM bolts).





The caliper bracket should come right off.

Caliper Bracket/Brake Pads



And this is where we are:

__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 02-25-2013, 02:00 PM   #3
ChrisHager
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Clean up the caliper bracket...

Notice how grimy the pad clips are:



Get out your wire brush and clean 'em up (if new are not supplied)!



We also want to remove the caliper slide pins and clean/re-grease them.

The pins slide right out. They're only held in by the rubber boot. Notice the lip on the pin:







Clean the pins off with brake cleaner (I also tried to clean out the pin boots/slides) ...



...and grease everything. I stuffed some grease in the holes as well (don't go overboard).



Finally, put the pin back in and push down until the boot pops back over the lip in the pin. The new grease makes this a very simple task.



Also, while you're greasy, add some to the pad clips.



Remove the old rotor. If these little keepers are present, spin/yank them off (2). A screwdriver or pliers may be helpful:





Removing the rotor can sometimes be difficult. I smacked mine with a rubber mallet to help with removal.

__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 02-25-2013, 02:01 PM   #4
ChrisHager
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Location: Springfield, Illinois
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New Parts

I bought some Centric Rotors. Because of the coating on them, I was advised to wash them with dish soap, not brake cleaner. If you're brave, a deep kitchen sink works well. I was nervous when I did this because my wife was staring at me...

These rotors are really nice!









I also opted for Hawk LTS brake pads for the front.



__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
ChrisHager is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-25-2013, 02:02 PM   #5
ChrisHager
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Installation

First, slip the new rotor on. Try to avoid touching the surfaces where the brake pads will touch. In the following picture, you'll see that I installed the rotor keeper things. I ended up pulling them back off to ensure everything mounted flush.



Next, install the caliper bracket.



Next, loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper and slip a clear hose over the valve.



Using a C-Clamp, gently press the caliper pistons in. By opening the bleeder valve, the old fluid will be expelled during this step. The hose in the previous step is used to direct the brake fluid into a container.





When the pistons are pressed back, tighten the bleeder valve.

The Hawk pads came with some high temp lubricant which is used to reduce noise. If you have this, spread it on the back of the pads (NOT THE FACE OF THE PADS!!).



Insert the pads into the caliper bracket.



Next, slip the caliper over the pads and attach it with the two bolts. Be sure you have the caliper pins positioned properly.

Upper Pin

Incorrect



Correct



Lower Pin

Correct



Now that everything is nice and tight, remove the cap to the master cylinder (make sure it's full of fluid), attach the hose to the bleeder valve, and bleed the brake. My preference is to have a helper push on the brake pedal while I open the valve. When the fluid finishes coming out, tighten the bleeder valve and have your helper let off the brake. Repeat until no bubbles come out. Be sure to keep brake fluid in the master cylinder!



Finally, install the wheel/tire, torque the lug nuts, and move on the the next wheel.

__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
ChrisHager is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-25-2013, 02:03 PM   #6
ChrisHager
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Location: Springfield, Illinois
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Rear

Tools/Supplies:

Floor Jack
Jack Stands
19MM Socket
18MM Socket
T-45 Torx Socket
Ratchet
3/8" Wrench
Pliers
Flat Head Screw Driver
Wire Brush
Grease
Rubber Mallet
C-Clamp
Brake Cleaner
Paper Towels
Clear Hose
Cup/Container

Jack up the WJ and rest it on jack stands. Remove the tire (19MM, 18MM if the caps have fallen off).

Remove the caps covering the slide pins. The slide pins (2) are removed with a T-45 torx socket.





Remove the caliper:



Remove the caliper bracket bolts (2 - 18MM):



The caliper bracket will lift off.



Loosen the bleeder valve (3/8"):



Gently compress the caliper piston with a C-Clamp:



Close the bleeder valve.

Clean the caliper bracket where the brake pads contact with a wire brush and apply grease to the cleaned area.



__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
ChrisHager is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-25-2013, 02:06 PM   #7
ChrisHager
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2004 WJ 
 
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Location: Springfield, Illinois
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Installation

Clean and grease the slider pins and install back in the caliper. Install the caps as well.



(I may have gotten a little wild with the grease)



Install the caliper bracket with the two bolts.



I applied grease to the backs of the new pads:



Slip the front pad into the caliper bracket and the rear pad into the caliper piston (disregard the keeper wire in this picture).



Install the caliper over the caliper bracket/front brake pad and tighten the two slider pins. To install the front keeper wire, insert one end in the caliper and pull the other side up with pliers.







Remove the lid to the master cylinder and ensure there is plenty brake fluid, slip the hose over the bleeder valve, have your helper push the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder valve, tighten the bleeder valve when the fluid stops flowing, have your helper release the brake pedal, and repeat until no bubbles come out of the caliper.



Lastly, install the wheel/tire and torque the lug nuts properly.
__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
ChrisHager is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-25-2013, 02:08 PM   #8
ChrisHager
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2004 WJ 
 
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Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 4,233
Place Holder
__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
ChrisHager is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-25-2013, 02:10 PM   #9
ChrisHager
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 4,233
Place Holder
__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
ChrisHager is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-25-2013, 02:10 PM   #10
ChrisHager
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 4,233
Place Holder
__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
ChrisHager is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-04-2013, 05:30 PM   #11
STaTTiKK
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Location: Pinetop, Arizona
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right on man great post..
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Unread 12-06-2013, 10:27 AM   #12
noeffort
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2002 WJ 
 
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Location: Shelton, CT
Posts: 216
Excellent writeup. I have been using the same centric ecoating rotors for my jeep and the other 3 vehicles in my family's "fleet". Good stuff.
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