brake issues - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 12-20-2016, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
87thhunter
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brake issues

I got this 2001 GC - engine was blown so never truly got to test the brakes initially.
I have new rear calipers and one new front. I got speed bleeders, and they worked awesome on all my old jeeps! My issue is simple, the brake ALWAYS goes to the floor when the jeep is running or not running. Never gets hard, fluid flows awsome out the calipers or least they seem to. I had ran a new brake line, saw some of the fittings where leaking, rebleed the system and nothing changes. The brakes are so bad that in reverse they don't work with the pedal on the floor forward will stop at idle hardly.
I did have some brake before i did the new brake line and rear calipers (after i got the engine installed) but it was poor but drivable, now the problem is as above

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post #2 of 21 Old 12-20-2016, 09:48 PM
Dan_in_MN
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Just a guess, you might have air trapped in the ABS pump.

Could also be a bad master cylinder.

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post #3 of 21 Old 12-21-2016, 01:01 AM
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Sometimes if you force an older MC to travel the full distance of the cylinder during a bleed you can upset the delicate balance of things and the MC will fail. Is the MC sucking in brake fluid from the reservoir and spitting it back in when you press the pedal? If so the internal check valve could be toast. It's either the MC or there is air in the system.
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post #4 of 21 Old 12-21-2016, 03:49 AM
86cj74.2L
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Try bleeding the master cylinder and then start over.

Get some brake line and screw into the master cylinder ports and bend them up and into the resivor a little and fill till the lines are covered.

Then fill tank and pump brakes until no bubbles are present in tank.

Make sure you have at least 1 bleeder open. Then with a full tank remove the bench bleed lines you put on and while its dripping install the lines to the wheels. Gravity bleed all the wheels and start over.

I bought a pressure bleeder from "motive pro."
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post #5 of 21 Old 12-21-2016, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
87thhunter
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I took the master cyl off, 250k miles and original cyl im going to just replace it with the rest of the parts on this jeep.
I was able to look at the one rear wheel when i was bleeding, the fluid will just trickle out if i push the pedal slow, if i slam hard on the pedal it push's out the fluid pretty good. If i remember correctly from other trucks/cars even a slow depress has a constant heavy flow of fluid???

So i will bleed the new M/C and then gravity feed the brakes, then rebleed again.
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post #6 of 21 Old 12-21-2016, 10:37 AM
Montreal300
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I'm betting the master cylinder is toast. If pumping the pedal doesn't increase the stiffness, it's the master.

1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Laredo (White) with 4.0 137,000 miles
2006 Chrysler 300C, 5.7 (Black) 98,000 miles
2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with 3.5 and AWD (Black) 65,000 miles
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post #7 of 21 Old 12-21-2016, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
87thhunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montreal300 View Post
I'm betting the master cylinder is toast. If pumping the pedal doesn't increase the stiffness, it's the master.
Yeah when i bleed and bleed and bleed and cant find any leaks, like okay there is air the pedal SHOULD get harder, even if i have some air in the system it hasn't. So hopefully my new master will make me stop! May finally be done with the jeep for well a week....
I ordered a bleeder from work (carquest) our amazing shuttle driver left it at a different store....
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post #8 of 21 Old 12-21-2016, 07:25 PM
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Don't pump the pedal before opening a bleeder. It turns one or two big air bubbles into a million little ones.

If I don't use the pressure bleeder it's

open bleeder-depress pedal-close bleeder-release pedal........
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post #9 of 21 Old 12-21-2016, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
87thhunter
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I appreciate the help guys, turs out after getting the new master, the speed bleeders where not tight - they where tightening up but not because they sealed the treads ran out and it was only tight because of the head. So changed all them, gravity bleed it (till I can get a 2nd helper) and they work almost perfectly considering I havnt officially bled them
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post #10 of 21 Old 12-22-2016, 07:20 AM
ChrisHager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
Don't pump the pedal before opening a bleeder. It turns one or two big air bubbles into a million little ones.
^ This x2!

Glad you found your problem, 87!

~Chris
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post #11 of 21 Old 12-25-2016, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHager
^ This x2! Glad you found your problem, 87!
that's actually in the FSM for my 94 Ram. Been doing it ever since.
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post #12 of 21 Old 12-25-2016, 06:28 PM
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that's actually in the FSM for my 94 Ram. Been doing it ever since.
Interesting! Blaine of BMB told me the same thing a few years ago when we were diagnosing some issues on the J10. I never did the pump method but hearing the reason why not to do it from him re-encouraged me to not pump the pedal. Haha.

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post #13 of 21 Old 12-25-2016, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHager
Interesting! Blaine of BMB told me the same thing a few years ago when we were diagnosing some issues on the J10. I never did the pump method but hearing the reason why not to do it from him re-encouraged me to not pump the pedal. Haha.
I've been doing it ever since I read it too. (Late 90's)

The pressure bleeder is by far the best though. No helper needed.
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post #14 of 21 Old 12-25-2016, 09:03 PM
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I've been doing it ever since I read it too. (Late 90's)

The pressure bleeder is by far the best though. No helper needed.
I've been itching to try one. I may have to put that on my short list for tools. It would be nice to be able to finish a brake job without needing a helper!

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post #15 of 21 Old 12-26-2016, 03:53 AM
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Easy to make a pressure bleeder. I think mine cost all of $75 to make.
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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Laredo (White) with 4.0 137,000 miles
2006 Chrysler 300C, 5.7 (Black) 98,000 miles
2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with 3.5 and AWD (Black) 65,000 miles
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