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Unread 07-06-2011, 09:47 AM   #1
dinovass
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Brake Caliper Slide bolt Stuck

I have a 2001Grand Cherokee that recently started making horrible grinding noises from the drivers side wheel. It turns out the slide bolt got stuck partially extended and the brake pad started rubbing at an angle instead of flush with the rotor. One slide bolt works perfectly while the other one is stuck solid. Is there a good way to dislodge the bolt. I tried prying it out, twisting and resorted to a hammer with a blunt chisel. Nothing is working. Do I try hitting it harder or is there a correct way to remove it.
Thanks

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Unread 07-06-2011, 10:25 AM   #2
FirefightinWJ
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Heat, PB Blaster, and Vice Grips.
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Unread 07-06-2011, 04:15 PM   #3
dinovass
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Thank you. Added hammer and chisel to your list and 2 hours later dislodged the bolt but destroyed the rubber boot in the process.
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Unread 07-06-2011, 04:17 PM   #4
mtnmarc
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my remanned calipers did the same thing. i tried hitting it with a hammer, pliers, everything. i ended up just getting a new caliper and mounting bracket under warranty.

maybe clean them regularly with brake clean then re lube them. the rubber boots might be loose letting dirt and other contaminates in.
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Unread 07-06-2011, 06:34 PM   #5
FirefightinWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnmarc View Post
my remanned calipers did the same thing. i tried hitting it with a hammer, pliers, everything. i ended up just getting a new caliper and mounting bracket under warranty.

maybe clean them regularly with brake clean then re lube them. the rubber boots might be loose letting dirt and other contaminates in.
Thats the big thing. Everytime I remove a brake caliper, I pull the slide pins and cover them with anti-seize.
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Unread 07-07-2011, 10:10 PM   #6
djoy
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not to hijack but I couldn't get the bolt that goes from bracket to knuckle off. Used heat and acetone/atf. I felt like I was going to shred the bolt so I gave up. This was with a nice big cheater bar.
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Unread 12-17-2011, 11:34 AM   #7
Iieyasu1
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I couldnt get my bolts off either. PB, hammer and light tapping. Next up breaker bar and air gun. These bolts are comin off.
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Unread 12-17-2011, 04:36 PM   #8
djoy
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I finally got them off using a wrench and a 5lb hammer. It worked like a charm and since the wrench goes around the entire bolt nicely, they wont strip easily . Using an impact almost destroyed what was left and the wrench rescued them. But the first three blows the hammer did bounce as if it were a bungee.
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Unread 12-17-2011, 06:19 PM   #9
Augie56
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Yep, the best way would be to use an impact with just enough air pressure to break them free, but thats about impossible with the clearance you have to work with.

In cases like this, I like to create my own impact with 1/2" six point sockets and my short handle 5lb sledge. Works every time.
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Unread 12-17-2011, 07:09 PM   #10
kastner03
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anit-seize is a bad thing to use on the slide pins from what i was told by all the mechanics at a local garage, it will kinda dry up and collect dust. they make grease just for this purpose and it works really well since ive switched to using the grease ive never had any dirt build up in there or rusted/stuck guide pins, we service a fleet of about 15 plow trucks and every fall we used to always have stuck guide pins when wed service the trucks before winter, this year not a single one!

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Unread 12-17-2011, 08:35 PM   #11
ct-snoman
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you want to use slide pin/brake lube. It is designed specifically for that purpose and, equally if not more important, is designed to withstand the heat that is generated by the brakes. Any other lubricant and you run the risk of bad things happening
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Unread 12-18-2011, 12:34 PM   #12
Augie56
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I use white lithium on all the pad contact points and the slide pins. So far, so good...
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Unread 01-26-2013, 07:08 PM   #13
teamodave
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I just did the front brakes on my 2004 Grand Cherokee and each side had one slide pin that did not want to budge. I wasted a good hour trying to get the first one off when I finally mounted the bracket back on the knuckle and used a pipe wrench and a cheater bar to break it loose. Once loose, I hit it with Liquid Wrench, and more twisting with the pipe wrench. When I had enough room to not ruin the rubber boot, I used channel locks to keep turning it. Then I'd used a flat chisel and mini sledge hammer. Eventually it broke loose. The second one was just as seized but I got it at last. All in all, it ended up being a 5 hour job but I was glad I stuck with it as I didn't have a back up car to get to work on Monday.
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Unread 01-26-2013, 07:15 PM   #14
Gunrunner23
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Would one suggest getting extra slide pins before they change their brakes? Im about to do them and I want to have everything in case I run into problems.

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Unread 01-26-2013, 08:18 PM   #15
teamodave
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I did and I'm very glad I did. Might not hurt to get the boots along with them, but I got lucky and didn't need them. Make sure you have some good brake grease and some anti-seize compound too.
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