Blower Motor Resistor Repair Write-up -
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post #1 of 32 Old 11-04-2011, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Blower Motor Resistor Repair Write-up

Hey guys. Well after numerous times of asking my passenger to "Jiggle those wires down there" I finally fix the blower motor resistor.

It starts off like this.

1. Located the blower motor resistor and determine if that is infact the problem. It will normally look like this.

If you take the resistor apart, it will be similar to this

2. You can start by unplugging the plug on the blower motor. And then unplug the wire that is actually melted/burnt. This may take some effort, and it some cases is impossible, so you may just want to cut the plug off of the wires, in this case, cut up far enough past the burnt part on the wires to save you some time. And then unscrew the old resistor that is held by 2 Phillips screws. At this point, it should be hanging freely. You may have to lead the blower motor power plug around the HVAC box so that it is free.

This picture here gives you an idea of the power plug and how it is routed.

Heres the plug after its cut off

And the hole where the resistor should be!

4w you can start by screwing the adapter plate onto the newer updated blower motor resistor! Also take a look at the way your old vs new release heat.

Old vs New

4. Now reroute the power plug and plug that back in. Next install the new resistor by putting in the screws.

5. You may want to do this before step 4, but its all personal preferance. Strip each end of the wires and connect them to the wires that you cut the old plug off of. There should be (6) That you need to do this too. It would be best if you solder/heat wrap them. But you can also use crush connectors too.

Then test to see if it works!

Notes; Your wire that is used to connect the resistor to the blower motor may be backwards from the factory. Meaning that you may have the switch the wires around in the plug. Its very easy to do. Just pop out the blue locking thing with a flat head screw driver, then carefully pry the black "legs" that hold the wires in place and push down on the wire inside the plug.

Please excuse the burnhole on my floor. That is what happens when you leave this problem go for too long, it heats up so much, melts the plastic, and catches the whole underside of the HVAC box on fire. The P/O did not care to show me this, nor did he tell me. This would be the second time that I had to mess with the HVAC box. IMO Mopar did a horrible job with this HVAC system.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask!

Total cost of about 100$
Kolak sells the whole kit and I would absolutly reccomend buying this from him! He is a great seller and is very very helpfull in any questions you may have.

Also, I have no carpet because I unfortunatly went through a mud hole that I didnt know how deep it was, So its getting shampooed right now.

^^ Was actually deeper then in the picture. There I was stuck and my buddies got out and were laughing at me. It was deep enough I got water into my airbox, I dont know how I didnt kill my motor.

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post #2 of 32 Old 11-04-2011, 04:36 PM
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LMAO I'm usually like "hey can u just kick under my dash?" That usually 'kicks' the ac on. GET IT?

Thank you so much for this write up, though!

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post #3 of 32 Old 11-04-2011, 04:52 PM
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Nice Write-up, thank you. You should submit this to the WJ FAQ sticky!!!

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post #4 of 32 Old 11-09-2012, 07:50 PM
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Cheers for the info on flipping the wires. I purchased the same kit for my Australian 03 GC 4.7 HO and also had to flip the wires, all works like new.
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post #5 of 32 Old 12-10-2013, 01:49 PM
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SWEET JESUS - MY HEAT WORKS!!!! Hey man thanks for the detailed instructions. Your a savior man. It's 7* in Chicago and the heat in my 02 GC LTD wasn't working. Lo n' behold - the exact same issue down to the melted connector and burnt terminal. Also, your pic of the 2cable connector connected to the blower was a God send as I couldn't find where it was connected - until I saw your post. Hey man Thanks again!
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post #6 of 32 Old 12-12-2013, 10:39 AM
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Wj Same thing

hey man i am literally in the process of doing this same thing, only problem i am having i getting the new resistor back into the same spot as the old. Also when i got it up there the air was coming right out from the resistor spot. So i got my blower working it just not coming from the vents. Is it because the part is not fully installed back into proper position or are my blender doors ****ed? any suggestions or comments would be awesome
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post #7 of 32 Old 12-13-2013, 11:41 AM
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HELP!!! I changed the resister pack following the directions above. Before my blower worked intermittently now that I have changed it it wont work at all
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post #8 of 32 Old 12-19-2013, 06:47 PM
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same thing happened to me it seems to really on blow on high and not very much air flow on high either... any suggestions?
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post #9 of 32 Old 12-19-2013, 11:49 PM
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changed my resistor last night , works lovely now , but definitely need the blender doors now lol , lots of noise, not much air , but it clears the front window , im one step closer ,..................
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post #10 of 32 Old 02-26-2014, 06:22 PM
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Great write-up

Well done with the pics! Heat blowing again in the subzero weather - much happier now driving the WJ again!
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post #11 of 32 Old 03-11-2014, 04:44 PM
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I'm not getting much airflow either. Which wires need to be switched?
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post #12 of 32 Old 03-11-2014, 04:54 PM
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The wires going to the motor from the resistor, not the wires to the power.

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post #13 of 32 Old 03-11-2014, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Sport View Post
The wires going to the motor from the resistor, not the wires to the power.
Figured it out. Was looking at the wrong connector. Thanks.
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post #14 of 32 Old 03-11-2014, 06:28 PM
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Just switched mine tonight on the new blower resistor kit. Much better

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post #15 of 32 Old 08-02-2014, 08:03 AM
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Wire Swap - Is it the green and black wires to swap in image Old vs New in the post.
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