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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Blend Door Repair

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Unread 08-11-2013, 11:58 PM   #1
westdave
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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Blend Door Repair

03 GC Overland with 72000 miles and no hot air. What is current choice
for repair kit going through glove box?

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Unread 08-12-2013, 12:33 AM   #2
billzcat1
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
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I looked at the Heater Treater and The Blen Dor Store kits, the Blen Dor Store seemed to be the better built kit. The way the foam wraps over the ends of the Heater Treater kit didn't look as finished to me and the machine work didn't look that great. So I went with the Blen Dor Store single-zone conversion, works perfectly three years later. One thing I like about the single-zone conversion is that it uses only the driver's side actuator which is easily accessed when it eventually fails. The passenger side actuator requires complete dash removal to access.

The JGCParts kit is also apparently pretty good and is a bit cheaper. Mopar also now offers a through-the-box kit as well but it is one metal and one plastic door and so I'm not sure what the point is... should have been all-metal IMO.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 12:45 AM   #3
Olese
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Look up these two sellers on ebay (rolandgendron and texster68). They both sell "through the glove box" repairs for the WJ. There are probably others but I have used both of these sellers in the past on my current and past WJ's. A friend installed the one from texster68 (http://www.heatertreater.net), single zone control so I am not sure how that install went but I installed the one from rolandgendron (it was the one for the dual climate control on the Limited) (http://blendorstore.com) and that install was pretty straight forward and easy.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:00 AM   #4
rdkendrick
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I used Blendor store on my dual-climate AZC system. It's been 3 years and the only problem I have had are the shavings, the hack mechanic left in my HVAC box, still blow out once in a while. I have been told not to recommend Roland, by one of the users on here, because he had a problem with him once, but I have never had any problem. (Knock wood)

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Unread 08-12-2013, 11:57 AM   #5
bowhunter69
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it should have been a recall issue...
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Unread 08-12-2013, 02:49 PM   #6
rdkendrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowhunter69 View Post
it should have been a recall issue...
I whole-heartedly agree.

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Unread 08-12-2013, 07:24 PM   #7
kentman
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Recalls are for safety issues. Climate control has nothing to do with safety unless something lights on fire as a result of failure.

I am prepping for dash removal. I have new blend doors, recirc door, heater core, and evaporator. It is too hot in the garage right now to execute this one. I am waiting for cooler weather to gut the interior of the WJ. I am hoping to get AC back and have functioning recirc and blend doors.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 08:30 PM   #8
Schlotzky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
. . .
The JGCParts kit is also apparently pretty good and is a bit cheaper. Mopar also now offers a through-the-box kit as well but it is one metal and one plastic door and so I'm not sure what the point is... should have been all-metal IMO.
As an engineer, I can shed some light on this topic for you. The reason it isn't all-metal is because an all-metal blend door is completely unnecessary overkill. The only reason Mopar made the passenger door aluminum is so the kit would still be just as effective as a through-the-dash kit as it is used as a dash-removal kit.

The fact is that, from an engineering perspective, the stock blend doors were perfectly fine. They are no worse quality than any other automotive blend door, and how many other vehicles have blend door problems like these Jeeps do? The problem is the blend door drive connectors. Even Roland from the blendorstore admits this on his page, and he's one of the ones selling the over-priced all-aluminum kits.

Here's the rundown: The actuator motors are geared down from a relatively high-speed motor down to a speed of a few degrees a second, which multiplies the torque at the application point as an inverse of the speed reduction. This means the drive connectors see quite a bit of torque, and the stock connectors relied on a little plastic tab that sticks out from the connector and hits a stop on the blend door housing. This tab was under-engineered for the torque the actuators apply every time the system cycles and resets end-points after ignition cycles, and so it shears off once the plastic sees some years of degradation and fatigue, nearing a 100% failure rate.

AFTER this happens (and ONLY after this happens) the doors see the actuator's torque directly when they press up against the internal air outlets they're designed to block. The doors were never designed to take the torque because they were never supposed to see it, so they break.

All-metal doors are a band-aid because the source of the failure was in the drive connector in the first place. If you upgrade the drive connectors, the factory doors would be more than adequate for nearly indefinite life.

When you buy the Mopar kit, (which costs less than heatertreater and blendorstor and is just as much overkill), you retain use of both climate zones and you address the root of the problem on the driver's side door because the new Mopar connectors are upgraded in size adequately to prevent failure. For this reason, they stuck with a plastic door, but they went ahead and reinforced the old failure point with spring steel just for kicks. Because the passenger connector cannot be upgraded without dash removal, they went for a CNC aluminum door, like the other kits. But, remember the drive connectors weren't made to see the torque of the motor anywhere but the stop tab and now they're seeing it inside the door, so they can and do fail (a second time), making even a CNC aluminum door worthless without dash removal (I know because I experienced this).

So in recap: the all aluminum kits are a waste of money so long as the drive connectors are upgraded (and all available kits upgrade these first). Even Dorman makes an all-plastic upgrade kit that is perfectly adequate for very long life if installed properly (with dash removal to be thorough). This makes the Mopar kit the best option for a cheater-method, and also the cheapest highly-upgraded option. The Dorman kit is a perfectly good option if the dash is coming out anyway (like to fix that recirculation door that suffers the same poor design) because the drive connectors are upgraded, and it comes in at a fraction of the cost of even the Mopar kit.

Now, if you still like overkill and want an all-aluminum kit just because, go with heatertreater. Roland, who runs blendorstor is a rude and unreasonable man, and trust me, you never want to resolve a problem with him. He was even temporarily banned from this forum for harassing forum members.
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Unread 08-18-2013, 12:52 AM   #9
Olese
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentman View Post
Recalls are for safety issues. Climate control has nothing to do with safety unless something lights on fire as a result of failure.

I am prepping for dash removal. I have new blend doors, recirc door, heater core, and evaporator. It is too hot in the garage right now to execute this one. I am waiting for cooler weather to gut the interior of the WJ. I am hoping to get AC back and have functioning recirc and blend doors.
I would think that not being able to clear a frosted windshield in the winter or a fog filled windshield during a humid summer rain would constitute a safety hazard. Chrysler is infamous for weaseling out of repairs.
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Unread 08-18-2013, 04:27 AM   #10
2003cherokee
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I did heater treater

I tackled mine about 4 years ago. I bought the heater treater kit off their website. It had OK instructions with it but I also used the videos on you tube which helped a bunch. It took my wife and I two full days to do because I did not know how the dash and console came out and I did not want to break anything by getting in a hurry. Now I could probably do it in 5-7 hours.

Went together pretty well. The only thing to be extra careful with is when you are dremeling the heater box. Take your time. Other than that it was well worth the money. My doors both broke off and fell in on the fan like most do. I don't know if they have a kit so you can have both zone doors separate. I think they do but I can't see why anyone would need it.

Just make sure you put the little black vents back in behind the side vents. I forgot one and have not had time to mess with it yet.
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Unread 08-18-2013, 08:00 AM   #11
Merc1973
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Blendor Stor worked great for me (Through glovebox)
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Unread 09-07-2013, 11:59 AM   #12
cr8zynelly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlotzky View Post
As an engineer, I can shed some light on this topic for you. The reason it isn't all-metal is because an all-metal blend door is completely unnecessary overkill. The only reason Mopar made the passenger door aluminum is so the kit would still be just as effective as a through-the-dash kit as it is used as a dash-removal kit.

The fact is that, from an engineering perspective, the stock blend doors were perfectly fine. They are no worse quality than any other automotive blend door, and how many other vehicles have blend door problems like these Jeeps do? The problem is the blend door drive connectors. Even Roland from the blendorstore admits this on his page, and he's one of the ones selling the over-priced all-aluminum kits.

Here's the rundown: The actuator motors are geared down from a relatively high-speed motor down to a speed of a few degrees a second, which multiplies the torque at the application point as an inverse of the speed reduction. This means the drive connectors see quite a bit of torque, and the stock connectors relied on a little plastic tab that sticks out from the connector and hits a stop on the blend door housing. This tab was under-engineered for the torque the actuators apply every time the system cycles and resets end-points after ignition cycles, and so it shears off once the plastic sees some years of degradation and fatigue, nearing a 100% failure rate.

AFTER this happens (and ONLY after this happens) the doors see the actuator's torque directly when they press up against the internal air outlets they're designed to block. The doors were never designed to take the torque because they were never supposed to see it, so they break.

All-metal doors are a band-aid because the source of the failure was in the drive connector in the first place. If you upgrade the drive connectors, the factory doors would be more than adequate for nearly indefinite life.

When you buy the Mopar kit, (which costs less than heatertreater and blendorstor and is just as much overkill), you retain use of both climate zones and you address the root of the problem on the driver's side door because the new Mopar connectors are upgraded in size adequately to prevent failure. For this reason, they stuck with a plastic door, but they went ahead and reinforced the old failure point with spring steel just for kicks. Because the passenger connector cannot be upgraded without dash removal, they went for a CNC aluminum door, like the other kits. But, remember the drive connectors weren't made to see the torque of the motor anywhere but the stop tab and now they're seeing it inside the door, so they can and do fail (a second time), making even a CNC aluminum door worthless without dash removal (I know because I experienced this).

So in recap: the all aluminum kits are a waste of money so long as the drive connectors are upgraded (and all available kits upgrade these first). Even Dorman makes an all-plastic upgrade kit that is perfectly adequate for very long life if installed properly (with dash removal to be thorough). This makes the Mopar kit the best option for a cheater-method, and also the cheapest highly-upgraded option. The Dorman kit is a perfectly good option if the dash is coming out anyway (like to fix that recirculation door that suffers the same poor design) because the drive connectors are upgraded, and it comes in at a fraction of the cost of even the Mopar kit.

Now, if you still like overkill and want an all-aluminum kit just because, go with heatertreater. Roland, who runs blendorstor is a rude and unreasonable man, and trust me, you never want to resolve a problem with him. He was even temporarily banned from this forum for harassing forum members.
So the DORMAN Part # 902307 is the way to go if Im going to have the dash apart? Im going to be replacing the heater core and evap so the dash will be off. Im trying to get a list of all the parts I need. Thanks!!
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Unread 09-07-2013, 02:58 PM   #13
Schlotzky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cr8zynelly View Post
So the DORMAN Part # 902307 is the way to go if Im going to have the dash apart? Im going to be replacing the heater core and evap so the dash will be off. Im trying to get a list of all the parts I need. Thanks!!
Yes, that kit will be perfect and straight forward for your heater core replacement. Since you'll have the HVAC box apart anyway, you can simply pop in the whole assembly and know that everything is upgraded. Here's a comparison of Dorman's upgraded connector to the stock one:



The Dorman's connector (left) is over 130% larger than the stock connector (right) which is the root cause of blend door failure.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 07:39 PM   #14
yhzz
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I am also facing this problem, we can get the answer from
http://jgcparts.com/JeepHeaterInstallation.html
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Unread 09-08-2013, 03:35 AM   #15
Ah673000
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Philadelphia, Pa
Posts: 376
I installed the heater treater unit 5 years ago and all is good still .... Zero issues.

As mentioned, be very careful when cutting the access hole....

I used a dremel , and the job took an hour .

My recirc door is now also broken ..... May need to remove dash yet..... But for now I just braced it closed .
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