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Unread 06-20-2013, 02:40 AM   #16
MWF
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It just depends on your tools, if you have allen key sockets and such it can make it a lot easier. I think I had a stubby spanner or wrench I could get on the bolt (which would wedge against something solid) and I could just tighten up with a socket.

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Unread 06-20-2013, 07:13 AM   #17
fosterjd79
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Hit it with an air gun. The speed/power of the gun will spin the nut right off before the shock has a chance to spin.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 04:46 PM   #18
mnwildfan2k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devinci View Post
I would imagine that the stock bolts you take out to remove the old shocks would work just fine.
I recall reading somewhere that the rear bolts are tapered and guys were swapping them out for non tapered to help in reducing the rear clunking of the shock mount. Anyone familiar?

Also, may sound like a dumb question, but I have also seen that the Bilsteins in the rear go "boot down, or shaft down?"
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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:04 PM   #19
fosterjd79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnwildfan2k View Post
I recall reading somewhere that the rear bolts are tapered and guys were swapping them out for non tapered to help in reducing the rear clunking of the shock mount. Anyone familiar?

Also, may sound like a dumb question, but I have also seen that the Bilsteins in the rear go "boot down, or shaft down?"
You're right about the boots and I just swapped all the hardware as recommended earlier in the thread. I forget which way the boots go but I remember that as long as your decals are not upside down you're good to go.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 08:18 PM   #20
billzcat1
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The front is boot-up and the rear is boot-down.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 09:51 AM   #21
MWF
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Just look at the boot, it will have a hole in the end it's supposed to drain from.
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Unread 06-23-2013, 10:41 AM   #22
chains45
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Just installed the Bilstein HDs on mine yesterday. Due to the tight quarters in getting the front shock top nuts tight I pulled down the boot, grabbed the shaft at the very top with some vice grips, and snugged the nut down, did not even scar the shaft. Considering how high up the shaft I grabbed even if it had scarred the shaft the seal would not be affected. Getting the boot re-installed is a challenge but both went back up just fine.

As far as the boot up/boot down issues on the rear shocks in this and other threads, owing to the type of loose fit boot it must go up. If it is placed boot down it will collect water and result in the early failure of the shock seal. As far as any drain hole (did not even look to see if mine has them) - that would be plugged very quickly.

BUT - it is YOUR vehicle, you do whatever you want to do.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 03:20 PM   #23
ADragg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chains45 View Post
Just installed the Bilstein HDs on mine yesterday. Due to the tight quarters in getting the front shock top nuts tight I pulled down the boot, grabbed the shaft at the very top with some vice grips, and snugged the nut down, did not even scar the shaft. Considering how high up the shaft I grabbed even if it had scarred the shaft the seal would not be affected. Getting the boot re-installed is a challenge but both went back up just fine.

As far as the boot up/boot down issues on the rear shocks in this and other threads, owing to the type of loose fit boot it must go up. If it is placed boot down it will collect water and result in the early failure of the shock seal. As far as any drain hole (did not even look to see if mine has them) - that would be plugged very quickly.

BUT - it is YOUR vehicle, you do whatever you want to do.
Bilstein designs some of the best shocks out there. I'm sure they would have designed it to go boot-up in the rear if they were worried about collecting water and failing. They're intended to go boot down on the WJ.
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Unread 06-26-2013, 03:38 PM   #24
bradywgn71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADragg View Post
I wouldn't bother, the stock bolts are just fine. I just installed Bilstein 5100's today (used Bilzcat's write-up to purchase the front lower shock hardware and as a general guide for the lift. However, the stock bolts on mine were big, heavy duty bolts that worked fine. I wouldn't both replacing them unless they're rusted as hell or something.

However, the one problem I did have (and still kind of have since I'm still finishing the last bits of the lift tomorrow), is that the upper front shock mounts just spin when you take the old shocks off and when you put the new Bilsteins in. The stock shock had a 6mm hex at the top of that post, but you have to hold that with a socket and then use a box-end wrench to actually loosen the shock bolt to get it off. PITA, because there's very little room to work the wrench in there.

Now I'm having the same issue with installing the Bilstein's. Even with the vehicle back on the ground, the shaft just spins (obviously it would, because it's a round chrome shaft with nothing to stop it accept the post at the top, which is an allen type, instead of a hex like the stock one). I can put an allen wrench into the top of the post to hold it still, but I still have to tighten the main bolt and again, have to use a regular wrench, which is HARD and takes forever. Plus, even after it's tight, I can't finish tightening it with a socket as it continues to spin. I can't even tell if I've got the torque spec right...

Such a PITA. Why does no one have this problem? I people never seem to mention trouble with the shaft spinning when trying to remove the shock, nor when installing new ones.
On the Bilsteins, hold the nut with a wrench and spin the shaft counter-clockwise with an Allen socket to tighten. It's the same thing as holding the center shaft still and spinning the nut clockwise. No need to try to swing a wrench in there.
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Unread 06-26-2013, 04:13 PM   #25
aestrad1
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Who needs boots any way? I cut mine off
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