If you purchase Bilstein shocks, you will need to provide some additional hardware. The OEM front shocks have studs welded into the bar pins where the mount to the axle. The Bilsteins just have holes. I tried to remove the studs but it was apparent after several heavy hammer blows that they were not pressed in (like I thought) but actually tacked in place.
The hardware you will need is 4 5/16-18 x 1-1/4" bolts Grade 5, 8 small 5/16" washers (grade 8), and 4 5/16" Grade 8 nylock nuts. All of these were available from Lowe's. I used Grade 5 bolts because the Grade 8 were not available in the right length, and honestly they will not be under that much strain anyway. The Bilstein shocks come with the appropriate bushings and hardware for the body-mount side, so no worries there.
I am going to be installing mine hopefully soon.
Anyone know what the rear hardware is?
Figure if were going o do 'em, might as well do them all with new hardware...
Bolts? Size? Sandwiched between washers?
I wouldn't bother, the stock bolts are just fine. I just installed Bilstein 5100's today (used Bilzcat's write-up to purchase the front lower shock hardware and as a general guide for the lift. However, the stock bolts on mine were big, heavy duty bolts that worked fine. I wouldn't both replacing them unless they're rusted as hell or something.
However, the one problem I did have (and still kind of have since I'm still finishing the last bits of the lift tomorrow), is that the upper front shock mounts just spin when you take the old shocks off and when you put the new Bilsteins in. The stock shock had a 6mm hex at the top of that post, but you have to hold that with a socket and then use a box-end wrench to actually loosen the shock bolt to get it off. PITA, because there's very little room to work the wrench in there.
Now I'm having the same issue with installing the Bilstein's. Even with the vehicle back on the ground, the shaft just spins (obviously it would, because it's a round chrome shaft with nothing to stop it accept the post at the top, which is an allen type, instead of a hex like the stock one). I can put an allen wrench into the top of the post to hold it still, but I still have to tighten the main bolt and again, have to use a regular wrench, which is HARD and takes forever. Plus, even after it's tight, I can't finish tightening it with a socket as it continues to spin. I can't even tell if I've got the torque spec right...
Such a PITA. Why does no one have this problem? I people never seem to mention trouble with the shaft spinning when trying to remove the shock, nor when installing new ones.