Battery Cable Upgrade "Big 3" - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 01-28-2014, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
lemiller
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Wj Battery Cable Upgrade "Big 3"

I finally got around to replacing the battery and cables in my 01 WJ. The cables were pretty corroded so I decided to upgrade them and put in 2 gauge full copper cables, instead of the stock 4 gauge. I didn't take a ton of pictures of the process (I just wanted to get it done) but i will share what I have.

The cable I bought came in a 25ft roll and is SAE & ROHS compliant.

I started off by taking the old battery harness out. This wasn’t too bad, worst part was taking the cables off the starter, took about 1hr to take out.
[IMG][/IMG]

Then I took all the electrical tape and plastic protective tubing off so I could figure out how long I needed to cut each run of wire.
[IMG][/IMG]

After I cut the new cable to the proper lengths I soldered on new copper ends.
[IMG][/IMG]

Used the heat shrink w/ adhesive on the inside to seal the ends up from the environment.
[IMG][/IMG]

After I finished soldering all the ends, I began installing all of them back into the jeep. I didn’t get too many pics of this part, I was just trying to get it done. I did snap a pic of my power distribution block, had to cut some of the plastic to allow the larger wire to fit.
[IMG][/IMG]

I also trimmed the lid to the power distribution block to allow it to fit snuggly over the new cables.
[IMG][/IMG]

Here is the finished product. Wires are kind of a mess; I will clean them up when it gets a little warmer out.
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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post #2 of 27 Old 01-28-2014, 07:45 PM
mycreativename
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Something went wrong with your image codes I think.

99' WJ, 2.5" Rusty's, Bilstein 5100's, JKS TrackBar, Moog SuperTrailBoss
"With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
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post #3 of 27 Old 01-28-2014, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
lemiller
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Originally Posted by mycreativename View Post
Something went wrong with your image codes I think.
yup just fixed them. sorry about that.
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post #4 of 27 Old 01-28-2014, 07:50 PM
mycreativename
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Oh no worries at all, I was just letting you know, because I know I've posted before and not realized it until no one responded hours later, haha.

Nice job on the wiring upgrade. I want to do mine once I get the engine rebuilt and all sorted out.

99' WJ, 2.5" Rusty's, Bilstein 5100's, JKS TrackBar, Moog SuperTrailBoss
"With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should." - Double E
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post #5 of 27 Old 01-28-2014, 07:53 PM
rdkendrick
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Where did you buy the post connectors from?

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post #6 of 27 Old 01-28-2014, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
lemiller
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Originally Posted by rdkendrick View Post
Where did you buy the post connectors from?

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bought them off amazon for $8 and free 2 day shipping with prime.
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-TZKIT3-Le...ttery+terminal
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post #7 of 27 Old 01-28-2014, 08:55 PM
ZJPunk98
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nice work dude!

Erik

98 ZJ 5.2L JGC Limited Sold
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post #8 of 27 Old 01-28-2014, 10:11 PM
imaguy3
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so did you happen to write out the lengths needed for each one? That way we can slowly build a new harness without the downtime of having to take the old out to cut apart and measure?

EvilEagle - "Imaguy3 just made everyone in this thread his *****."
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post #9 of 27 Old 01-29-2014, 04:53 AM
georged
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lemiller: You might be able to answer the question I asked a while back. Where do the two cables on each battery terminal start. I am thinking of making a set of cables and just cutting the terminal ends off the original ones and running the new cables on the outside of the factory bundle.
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post #10 of 27 Old 01-29-2014, 05:14 AM
the88thpianoman
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Originally Posted by georged View Post
lemiller: You might be able to answer the question I asked a while back. Where do the two cables on each battery terminal start. I am thinking of making a set of cables and just cutting the terminal ends off the original ones and running the new cables on the outside of the factory bundle.
From the negative terminal, one wire runs to the chassis right next to the fuse/relay box; the other is the engine ground (side of the block on the 4.0, don't know about the 4.7). Off the positive terminal, one goes to the starter, one goes to the fuse/relay box, and then a third connects the relay box and the alternator.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

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post #11 of 27 Old 01-29-2014, 05:56 AM
Matrixxxx
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i'd put some dielectric grease on the bare copper lugs to prevent corrosion.
whats the heat rating on the cable , as the engine can get well over 100 deg C when running.
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post #12 of 27 Old 01-29-2014, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
lemiller
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Originally Posted by Matrixxxx View Post
i'd put some dielectric grease on the bare copper lugs to prevent corrosion.
whats the heat rating on the cable , as the engine can get well over 100 deg C when running.
I actually put dielectric grease on everything and plan to keep putting it on ever so often. The cable is rated to 230 deg F, which is roughly 110 deg C I believe. I was actually kind of worried about the temperatures when I started this but all the wire I saw was for the same rating so I decided to give it a try.

Also for a little added protection I put the cables back in the protective plastic casing where ever I could.
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post #13 of 27 Old 01-29-2014, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
lemiller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman View Post
From the negative terminal, one wire runs to the chassis right next to the fuse/relay box; the other is the engine ground (side of the block on the 4.0, don't know about the 4.7). Off the positive terminal, one goes to the starter, one goes to the fuse/relay box, and then a third connects the relay box and the alternator.
X2 on this, on the 4.7L the negative terminal goes to the side of the block as well.
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post #14 of 27 Old 01-29-2014, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
lemiller
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Originally Posted by imaguy3 View Post
so did you happen to write out the lengths needed for each one? That way we can slowly build a new harness without the downtime of having to take the old out to cut apart and measure?
I still have my old harness so I will measure everything tonight when I get home and post up numbers.
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post #15 of 27 Old 01-29-2014, 07:52 AM
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By my calculation the factory size wires can flow far more than the starter (biggest current draw on a std Jeep) could every pull. Even with my 600+ Watts of lighting and everything else on, it fires up with the lights barely dimming. So I can't see any real advantage to making them any bigger unless you have a mega wattage sound system (in which case it should have it's own feed wires anyway). Any improvement noted is probably due to replacing old corroded wires with corroded post clamps with new rather than due to thicker wiring. So replacing with new std size wires with good connectors will probably give the same result.

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