Axle swap guide - 1/2 ton - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 97 Old 12-16-2013, 09:03 PM
Kodiak17
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Cool stuff. Come to RC this sunday, I'd love to see it in person.


Maintain, wheel, upgrade, repeat.

My build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/thor-dd-weekend-warrior-1348534/
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post #47 of 97 Old 12-28-2013, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
skain8
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Originally Posted by Kodiak17 View Post
Cool stuff. Come to RC this sunday, I'd love to see it in person.
No dice. See you in the spring.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #48 of 97 Old 12-28-2013, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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Updated 9" pics

Here are a few more pictures of the 9" *mostly* complete (no shock mounts or swaybar mounts in these pics, or gears, paint, etc... ).

Front:

9-rear-view.jpg

Rear:

9-front-view.jpg

Angle:

9-angle-view.jpg

Full compression w/drum. Note: the tank will be chopped, but the axle truss fits under full compression with no modification:

9-side-view-drum.jpg

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #49 of 97 Old 12-28-2013, 09:00 AM
fast540
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Looking pretty awesome
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post #50 of 97 Old 12-29-2013, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
skain8
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Originally Posted by fast540 View Post
Looking pretty awesome
Thank you.

The nice thing is, that apart from the complete axle kits, several of these individual components incorporated into the overall build (i.e. rear swaybar frame plates, coil retainers, etc..) are specific to the WJ, not available elsewhere, and can be used with any lift, or even stock.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #51 of 97 Old 01-03-2014, 07:56 PM
Eshindi
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Love the swap, I did the exact same swap for my WJ. Except that I went with rear disc brakes and no truss yet.
Great write up too. Did you have a speed sensor in your Transfer case or does your WJ use the ABS sensor for the speedo?

'15 JK Stock | 4k Miles | Bone Stock
SOLD '99 WJ I6 | Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's
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post #52 of 97 Old 01-04-2014, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
skain8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eshindi View Post
Love the swap, I did the exact same swap for my WJ. Except that I went with rear disc brakes and no truss yet.
Great write up too. Did you have a speed sensor in your Transfer case or does your WJ use the ABS sensor for the speedo?
Thanks.

Speed sensor in 231. ABS delete.

I know where you can get a truss for your 9".

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #53 of 97 Old 01-05-2014, 10:29 AM
StrokedWJ
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Maybe I missed it, but any thoughts/provision for a rear sway bar? You may want to think about adding a drain plug to the bottom of the 9 too.

2000 WJ 4.5L - Stroked, Locked, & Long-Armed
Looking for 6" WJ springs!
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post #54 of 97 Old 01-05-2014, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
skain8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrokedWJ View Post
Maybe I missed it, but any thoughts/provision for a rear sway bar? You may want to think about adding a drain plug to the bottom of the 9 too.
Rear swaybar pics/info not yet added. Stock bar retained. Using TJ style JKS disconnects, modified for length. Swaybar brackets welded to rear of truss. Mounts raised high as possible without inference with the OEM tank skid while retaining optimal angle.

As far as the drain plug, it was considered, but the shape of the 9" requires the drain to be on the very bottom. Enough gouging and scraping and it becomes difficult to remove. A hardened washer can be welded in and serve as a skid, but it would obviously stick out a bit and potentially catch or snag. Only one opinion, of course.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #55 of 97 Old 01-05-2014, 02:02 PM
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. That's where I put mine. Pretty well hidden and drains all but the very last bit of fluid. Enough to decrease the waterfall mess. Lol

2000 WJ 4.5L - Stroked, Locked, & Long-Armed
Looking for 6" WJ springs!
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post #56 of 97 Old 01-06-2014, 05:38 PM
Eshindi
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One other thing I'm jealous of is the fact that it looks like you kept your rear lower spring isolator in the rear. The claytons kit doesn't keep the isolator so the spring is right against the metal and it really gets noisy when on a bumpy road. I really want to copy our design to make my rear more quiet.

'15 JK Stock | 4k Miles | Bone Stock
SOLD '99 WJ I6 | Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's
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post #57 of 97 Old 01-06-2014, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eshindi View Post
One other thing I'm jealous of is the fact that it looks like you kept your rear lower spring isolator in the rear. The claytons kit doesn't keep the isolator so the spring is right against the metal and it really gets noisy when on a bumpy road. I really want to copy our design to make my rear more quiet.
Post #44 shows the front and rear coil designs, which do retain the factory isolators upper & lower. The f/r bottom isolators fit snugly onto a cup to hold them firmly into place.The half-moon retainer is then bolted to the cup. Pretty slick. No one likes clangy springs.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #58 of 97 Old 01-26-2014, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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For the rear swaybar links, I am using JKS disconnects from a TJ. I intend to keep the rear swaybar hooked up, but the TJ JKS disco's will permit more free movement of the swaybar with articulation. The TJ disco's are too short at my lift height, so they had to be modified. Originally, the thought was that the thread rod was glued into the eye piece. Heat didn't work, so it was cut off, ground smooth, and will be drilled and tapped with longer threaded rod.

Heat didn't work:

jks-burn.jpg

Cut and ground flat:

jks-cut.jpg

The "frame" rail at the upper rear swaybar was cracked. This was with the stock rear swaybar. It was permanently fixed with a plate. This fix/strength upgrade is a wise choice for the masses (especially those with the Addco), and should be available from Endless Mtn Fab soon.

Crack (cleaned):

php22zymzpm.jpg

Weld crack:

phpore5nbpm.jpg

Grind clean:

phptojt8rpm.jpg

Zinc pain between new plate and frame rail:

phpfnfovzpm.jpg

Plug & perimiter weld the plate:

phpxicpm1pm.jpg

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #59 of 97 Old 01-26-2014, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Steering - update to post #8

Post #8 of this thread shows the mock-up of the inverted Y steering. Here is how it looks now [mostly] complete

This is the draglink, which in an inverted Y design, attaches to the knuckle and the tie rod attaches to it. This piece is completely fabricated, with the machined metal insert piece interference fit in the tube, then plug and perimeter welded, and ground smooth:

draglink.jpg

Front view. Yes, the trackbar is there, you just can't see it because the geometry is that good . This is at ride height. Notice the flat angles of the draglink and trackbar (+/- 10*), and the lengths of these bars. Overall length of the trackbar and draglink are within a 3/8" of each other. The steering is so long I have come to refer to it as the Lexington Steel inverted y:

steering-complete.jpg

Side view towards the pitman arm. Note the clearance and how parallel and in plane the trackbar and draglink are.

steering-complete-side.jpg

Here is a better pic of the front, showing the fabricated draglink and the steering in general (yes, the trackbar is there -- can you find it? ). With the near-equal length of the trackbar and draglink, coupled with the other two factors of parallel and plane, the steering geometry is better than stock. Really. :

php3fqyoupm.jpg

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #60 of 97 Old 01-27-2014, 04:19 AM
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why did you choose to mount the tie rod to the drag link instead of the drag link to the tie rod like the picture below? wont this change the toe angle with suspension movement?


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