As mentioned above in the first steering section of the thread, to achieve optimal steering geometry, the trackbar and draglink need to be as close to parallel, same length, and in the same plane as possible. Deviation from this will cause bumpsteer and overall less-than-desirable steering characteristics.
In order to achieve the same length, the axle side trackbar bracket needs to be moved over towards the knuckle as far as possible, and the frame side trackbar bracket is moved over towards the coil, both without causing interference at full lock.
Axle side: trackbar bracket is custom fabbed for placement, clearance, and strength (not drilled for bolt yet in this picture). Note the clearance at full lock to squeeze every possible length out of the design:
Top view (at full lock)-
Frame side: What's missing in the first photo (besides the axle and bumpstop)? Bingo - factory trackbar bracket removed. New bracket will shift the frame side trackbar mount over towards the coil. After the factory bracket is removed, the frame rail is plated on 3 sides with 1/8" metal, perimeter and plug welded, and ground smooth for paint. Original frame rail was painted with zinc primer before the new plate was tacked in over top. Longer bolts are needed for the motor mount. The new bracket will be welded to the reinforced frame.
01' 4.7 Limited WJ 5" lifted, Rubicon Express 4.5" coil springs with IRO critical path setup and Bilstien 5100 shocks all around, JKS adjustable Trackbar (KOR bushings), JKS HD tie rod (MOOG problem solver Ends), JKS HD drag link (Moog Probel solver Ends), 4.56 Yukon ring and pinion, Moog HD SSD107 Steering Stabilizer, IRO Front drive shaft conversion, Stillen slotted rotors all around with Stillen brake pads, IRO adjustable A-Arm, 3" all the way Kolak Exhaust with High flow Magnaflow Cat. Converter and Flowmaster Super 50 Muffler, 285/70R17 AT Kumho (33") on 17" BlackWheel rims 909B, K&N Cold air intake, Four nozzles Bosch injectors, and Flashpaq 3780.
03' 4.7 H.O WJ 3" lifted, OME HD with 0.5" Coil spacers and Bilstien 5100 shocks all around, JKS adjustable Trackbar (KOR bushings), Moog Problem solver TRE's, IRO Front drive shaft conversion, IRO adjustable A-Arm, High flow magnaflow mini cats, high flow magnaflow cat, Flowmaster Super 44 muffler, 265/65R17 AT Yokohama on 17" Rays rims, and Flashpaq 3780
So Skain, what are you thinking about for longer travel shocks?
And what are you doing for a Tie rod/Drag link? I got the impression for your pictures you didn't intend on keeping the Ford steering.
Just longer travel Bilsteins. Not interested in anything more exotic.
Unfortunately, you cannot simply swap over the Ford steering. I retained the same style of steering (inverted Y -- albeit OTK), but the Ford bracketry doesn't jibe with the WJ. In the inverted Y, the tie rod attaches to the draglink. I'm not there yet in pictures, so you'll have to check back.
Skain thank you for the write up it's very complete and well written. I'm betting the results are gonna be awesome
I'm attempting to thoroughly cover everything for the benefit of the Forum, and showcase the fantastic work of Endless Mtn Fab at the same time. All of the custom WJ "stuff" that you see in this thread will be available at some point. Stay tuned...
Is endless Mtn a fab shop or do you produce parts for resale as well.ill be on stock axles for a bit longer but will be wanting reinforcement bits for the stock mounts and such will prob truss and gusset the front as well cus the parts are cheap and welding it up is just the price of high nickle rod
Coil retainers F/R are built in to the OEM isolators with a metal cup/plate, and a half-moon style coil retainer (see pics below).
For the front, retainers are used in the bottom, and upper retainers double as bumpstop extensions. Stock TJ cups/bumpstops are welded to the long extension piece and strike against the lower half-moon retainer. The long extension piece is welded to a plate to the stock upper isolator mount, and can be lengthened, as necessary, for taller tires. Factory bumpstops on the frame rails are removed and not reused. In this pic, you see the front set-up without the factory isolator installed on the lower spring pad. This fabricated piece fits snugly inside the isolator and serves to keep it in place. The upper stock isolator is reused.
For the rear, as with the front, stock TJ cups/bumpstops are used, and incorporated into the stock lower isolator (no bumpstop installed in this pic). Stock rear upper isolator is resused.
Drain hole for retainer tower -- little attention to detail :