Spent the day attempting to do new rotors and pads on my wife's 2004 WJ. Fronts, no problem. Driver side rear, no problem. Passenger rear...PROBLEMS!
Was pretty tough getting the rotor off and once I did, I saw why. The parking/e-brake pads were toast. Crumbling, cracked, rusted, etc...but the bigger problem was that everything behind the rotor was wet. Caliper isn't leaking, brake hose not leaking. To my mind that leaves the axle seal, leaking gear oil. Had that sort of smell to it. So, I youtube'd for info and found out how to remove the axle shaft. Didn't have any issues getting it out.
I'm going to take it over to the local MOPAR dealer to see if they can replace the seal, bearing, etc. Half expect a ridiculous price for popping those pieces off and pressing new ones on.
If it's crazy, I would like to be able to buy the parts myself and see if a machine shop or garage can do it for a reasonable amount.
Does anyone have part info for a kit that includes all the pieces? Think it's the mounting plate, seal, bearing and a collar that keeps it all in place. Not having much luck trying to track down the info on my own.
Spent the day attempting to do new rotors and pads on my wife's 2004 WJ. Fronts, no problem. Driver side rear, no problem. Passenger rear...PROBLEMS!
Was pretty tough getting the rotor off and once I did, I saw why. The parking/e-brake pads were toast. Crumbling, cracked, rusted, etc...but the bigger problem was that everything behind the rotor was wet. Caliper isn't leaking, brake hose not leaking. To my mind that leaves the axle seal, leaking gear oil. Had that sort of smell to it. So, I youtube'd for info and found out how to remove the axle shaft. Didn't have any issues getting it out.
I'm going to take it over to the local MOPAR dealer to see if they can replace the seal, bearing, etc. Half expect a ridiculous price for popping those pieces off and pressing new ones on.
If it's crazy, I would like to be able to buy the parts myself and see if a machine shop or garage can do it for a reasonable amount.
Does anyone have part info for a kit that includes all the pieces? Think it's the mounting plate, seal, bearing and a collar that keeps it all in place. Not having much luck trying to track down the info on my own.
You can order everything off rock auto. You'll need a slide hammer to pull out the axle, a dremel, cold chisel and hammer.
I have done the rears a few times. i have had NO luck with crown products. The leaked within days. I went mopar for the seals, timken for the bearings/retainer and Napa for the retainer plate and no problems. The crown retainer plate uses pressed in studs that almost always start to turn when you're tightening the nuts which means you have to get vice grips back there to hold them in place. Get a retainer plate that uses real nuts and bolts and use mopar seals.
I did both rears myself. Ordered through Amazon. Timken SET31 bearing, Timken 2146 seal, and Omix Ada 16536.39 retainer plate. $51.93 in parts per wheel
I did both rears myself. Ordered through Amazon. Timken SET31 bearing, Timken 2146 seal, and Omix Ada 16536.39 retainer plate. $51.93 in parts per wheel
Nice. Thanks for the part numbers! Think I even have about $50 in credit with Amazon.
I don't think I'm gonna do the labor since I don't have any way to press the new parts on. I I watched a video on YouTube about how to get the old stuff off, but I think I'd rather leave it all on so whoever I get to press the new parts on can use it as a reference. Last thing I want is for them to put the bearing on backwards and then delay the repair further while waiting for another set of parts.
FWIW I didn't replace the retainer plates on mine when I did my seals and bearings. Unless the threads on the studs are bad, there really isn't anything else that can go bad with them. Unless they are severely rusted or something like that. I am all about replacing parts that need replaced but in this case, I would save a few bucks if yours look ok.
I definitely second this approach. In my case both plates needed replaced. But, if they appear ok then I wouldn't replace them just for the heck of it. The replacement plates I ordered were about $17 a piece. Skip them and save yourself a few bucks if you can.
I got my shop press from Harbor Freight for around $150 with one of their 20% coupons. With what you pay a shop to take off and press on new parts you could be close to buying a press and then having it around for any other need that pops up. I've done 3 sets of D44 bearings, 20 wheel studs, and other random fixes with mine and it's definitely paid for itself.
Wanted to post an update...I called a transmission/diff shop yesterday to see if they could press in the new parts. The woman says they're about 3 weeks out on work, which is all well and good but I wasn't asking to bring the car in. Was only looking for maybe a half hour job. Turned out to be a blessing they weren't able to do it right away. Called a local repair shop that has a good reputation. They said, sure bring the axle over tomorrow (i.e. today). Took it over about 11 and by 11:30 it was done. Cost me a half hour of labor, $42 with tax. Got it all put back together including the new brake pads. Didn't do the parking break shoes., After I cleaned the old diff fluid off, they really didn't look too bad. I may go back later and change them. So, took the car out for a drive and to bed in the new brakes. All seems good. :2thumbsup:
Hell, I might even get the urge to replace the driver's side parts. They're not leaking currently, so might be best to leave well enough alone. Still, since I've done the passenger side, I won't hesitate or fret doing it again. And maybe I'll even buy my own shop press by then.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions...this place has always been a great resource since the day I bought my YJ. Even though I got rid of the YJ a few years ago, this is still the first place I look when I have issues with the WJ. :cheers2:
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