Definitely bringing it with me. Sitting right next to my tap handle.
It looks like you could use the bottom holes as pilots and drill new holes in the top and through bolt it if the offset is a problem. Then it would not be so prone to breaking the welds.
I actually think you must be confusing 12mm bolts on the other end of the A arm that are 1.75 pitch with the 14 mm bolts that mount the ball joint, that are 2.0 pitch.
As for my parts...I'm not guessing, I measured the pitch, I have 14MM 2.0 brand new nuts, they spin right on the OEM bolts. I have some lower control arm bolts and nuts, they are definitely 14mm 2.0 the nuts will spin right on the ball joint bolts. See the picture and notice how different the depth and width of 2.0 threads are compared to 1.75 threads, the two pitches can not be confused.
The link brings up a parts pdf. Open it and go to page 201 Figure 17-110 Item no 15
Here the bolt at a parts store
Picture of 14mmX2.0 and 12mmX1.75 bolts
What type of spacers are you guys running, I need to get one myself. Was thinking about getting the rock krawler one from Kolak but not after seeing how the other guys broke and there is no warranty. I am torn between KOR and IRO spacer.
- 2003 WJ Limited 4.7L 4x4, 3 inch IRO coil lift with Bilstein shocks, OME .5 inch spacers, adjustable IRO Track Bar. Beefy Tenneco Steering Stabilizer. 32 inch General Grabber AT2's, 5000k DDM Tuning HID lights. Magna Flow Cat-back exhaust system. Rola safari rack. IRO bump stops. Kevin's Offroad 2 1/4 A-Arm spacer.
IMO..The diff had to be originally tapped to 14 2.0 according to the bolts Mopar sells, the bolts aftermarket companies supply and the bolts one of the forum members just ordered and received.
That is likely why after your bolt went in a few turns it would lean over. Someone may have forced the wrong pitch bolts into the diff before and that reformed some of the soft aluminum but the 2.0 threads were still there. If you search bolt companies the bolts listed for 14mm are 1.5 and 2.0. I would like to know where they came up with 14 mm 1.75 pitch bolts in the first place. I also wonder why they would use them in aluminum when the coarse 2.0 pitch bolts are preferable in soft metal. As for the tap, you will find odd pitch or TPI taps made for special purposes. But in most cases finding bolts or nuts to match can be like trying to find hens teeth or Unicorn horns.
As far as re-tapping....Sure you can run a standard 1.5 fine metric tap in the holes or even an odd ball sized non standard 14mm 1.75 tap in the holes. But is not a wise thing to do because of the catch 22.... A fine threaded bolt is stronger because the thread profile is not as deep. Conversely the fine threads are much more prone to stripping and that is especially true in in soft material like aluminum. Plus if the holes were originally tapped to 2.0 pitch when you run a 1.75 pitch tap in the hole you will not have full threads of either pitch left.
Bottom line this is in my field of expertise but without examining the bolts and holes you have I can only say, approach running a tap in the holes with extreme caution.
Originally Posted by bmandubj10 View Post
The second reason why I would choose I.R.O's spacer over Kevins is... It's a solid block of aluminum so it's free of fabrication errors. The drilled holes and the bored hole are very close to a perfect match for the OEM ball joint. The counter bored hole has a little clearance but if the stamped sheet metal that holds the ball joint into got a lot of pressure and started to tweek back the base of the ball joint would bottom out in the counter bore and stop the sheet metal from bending further. Kevins and the other fabricated spacers I have seen will not give that support.
Side note... Do not buy the Rock Krawler spacer if you do not have adjustable lower control arms. When you lift 3 to 4" the lift causes your pinion to rotate up. Then your pinion Tcase flange are about 4 degrees out of parallel. 4* is not good but you can live with it. To make matters worse The Rock Crawler spacer has a built in offset. The offset causes it to rotate up more. Without knowing the exact offset I'm not sure exactly how much. I do know if it is a 3/4" offset it would add another 4* up on the pinion. That means certain severe driveline vibrations unless you happen to have a C/V joint at the T case end or adjustable lower control arms you can lengthen.
Another side note.... Do not buy IRO's "Short Adjustable A arm" and think it eliminates these problems. It is built to long to correct pinion angle and IRO over compensated for rubber bushing angle and really screwed that angle up. So at 2" - 4.5" inches of lift you are better off with the OEM arm and a 2" spacer.
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