I don't know much about cars but i kept hearing a lot of positive talk about lockers do i did a bit of research. I think i'd be a good idea to invest in locking differential along with a 4" lift and 33" tyres. Im already ripping my pockets apart trying to put together money for the lift/tyres/rims, but i want lockers too! so i guess i'll have to wait to get all that becuase i'd like to get lockers with that stuff all at once.
anywho, I'd like info/opinions of people who have lockers on which would be best to get and why.
thanks.
Personally, I would go with the Detroits. Less hassle and you know they'll always be locked. Not to mention they are cheaper.
I haven't been a fan of the ARBs ever since a buddy of mine had some in the f/r of his XJ. They took forever to lock up and were unreliable. He probably rebuilt them 2 or 3 times when he had the Jeep.
If you do alot of city driving the ARB is the way to go if you can.100% invisible on the street until you want them locked.No need to adjust your driving style.Granted the Detroit is a very good auto locker also.
I have had a ARB for 5 years now and never had a issue,always worked when I pushed the button,from -30 degrees to over 100 degrees temps.The ARB's install is key,a good install makes for problem free operation.
i've had a couple aussies in a couple jeeps, after switching to an e-locker in my current axle i'll never go back to an auto locker. so much nicer when you're in tight situations.
I love my ARBs, I have them in both the front and rear axles. The Dana 30 in the front and Dana 44 in the rear. Never had a an issue with them not locking when I needed them. I have had the 30 for over a year and the 44 since I did the axle swap last summer to the iron D44.
I have had auto lockers like the Aussie in the rear and they are un predictable. They will unlock when you do not want them to and lock when you want them open. They also cause some degree of torque steer, that is it will pull one direction under acceleration and the other on coast. Also on ice or packed snow they are very dangerous to an unexperienced dirver.
since you say you don't know much about the subject, use your rig a little 1st before you drop coin on something you might not even need. also, unless you can set-up gears yourself the labor is gonna be a few hundred dollars to install either of those lockers (unless u want the Detroit EZ locker which I would not recommend) more for the ARB since you have air lines and a switch, and don't forget the compressor that's needed with it. I see too many well built rigs running fire roads and bypassing anything that requires some skill driving, learn how to drive and pick lines, invest in recovery equipment and skids :2c:
Question for you: Does your rig have SelecTrac, QuadraTracII or QuadraDrive?
This can force the issue and make you choose a particular route. I agree with most...you probably don't need them, at least not right now. Learn how to wheel first and then decide if you need more.
Question for you: Does your rig have SelecTrac, QuadraTracII or QuadraDrive?
This can force the issue and make you choose a particular route. I agree with most...you probably don't need them, at least not right now. Learn how to wheel first and then decide if you need more.
Quadradrive II. I will get them later on, not now. But its good info to know what you're getting into and do research on it before hand in my opinion, plus i don't know much about cars overall so its just good learning.
anywho, I found you can also get part-time lockers that can be turned on and off? would this setup work on the WJ?
And cheap. $25 in fluid. The only special tools you need are a 10mm hex socket and a pump/suction gun/funnel w/tube to get the fluid in. Easier than an oil change even.
not when its -10C out and theres 10cm of snow on the ground. I'd do it in my garage but my mom said i can't use it becuase she needs the space for the next few weeks to store crap.
you need to look at what an auto locker is - it's a dog & clutch style mechanism, when it spins the inside teeth are forced to mate with the outside teeth, so....when does it spin - all the time. the only reason it can work in a 2wd front axle is there is no power being forced to it in 2wd mode, if you pay attention enough you can hear it clicking, that's the teeth ratcheting past each other to allow for different wheel speeds. the rear is always locked because it always has power, since on the street you're not in low range so the forces on the rear aren't as strong on the locker so it will let-go a lot easier, again, pay attention to the clicking as you turn. even in 4LO it will ratchet if you're on a high traction surface trying to turn
as far as if I've ever had an auto locker - in the many rigs I've built...front axles: Detroit EZ Locker, Aussie Locker, and Lockright Locker....rear axles: Powertrac No-Slip, and Detroit Locker. I've run a rear Lincoln locker and only 1 selectable locker in my wheeling experiences
I think we're both saying the same thing just going at it differently
An auto locker in the rear will still cause it to pull one direction when accelerating and the other when decelerating. The shorter the wheelbase the more noticeable it is.
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