just did mine last week it wasnt all that bad to do but i had a lift to work on the hardest part was getting the damn pitman arm off the old one took a ton of heat and broke 2 pullers but it came off spray the hose connectoins and all the bolts the day before with some pb blaster that should help
I just rented the puller at autozone and that worked fine on mine. Get a good breaker bar to pry on it though. Also the PB blaster is a really good idea. The gear is not that hard to change at all, just remove the airbox, inner fender lining, washer fluid bottle (that one is a pain), one bolt on the input shaft from the steering wheel, and then there are four bolts that hold it to the frame.
I also noticed that you plan on adding a track bar in the future. If you still have the stock one, check for play there too. When I replaced mine a lot of the bump steer and wander went away and so the steering felt a lot tighter.
1999 WJ Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7l V8 164k
2012 KK Liberty Limited 3.7l V6
2009 G8 GT 6.0l V8
it would be alot easier to have a spare pitman arm laying there incase the other one wont pop off then you wont be stuck without a vechicle however i have no idea where u can pick up one advance, autozone, napa and orielleys all said they couldnt get one
Lower the sway bar by disconnecting the frame mounts. Makes fumbling with the washer bottle easier, and a bit more clearance to work, AFTER you pull the pitman arm off.
And yes, for some reason mine was a b!ach too.... heat and beat. I'd rather keep the OEM one than risk a "made in china" replacement, but that's just me. It's not a 'wear item' so I wouldn't replace it if I could get it off successfully.
2007 Overland 5.7 Hemi, 1996 XJ Country 4.0
Any of you try adjusting the play in the steering box before replacing it?
I did this in my ZJ and it helped, and going to try the WJ soon as it has a tiny bit of play.
On the top of the gearbox there is a nut around an allen screw. Use a wrench and loosen the nut while holding the allen.
Then turn the allen in about 1/8-1/4 of a turn then tighten the nut back up. Go for a test drive. Repeat if necessary but if you end up having to turn the allen in too far the box will get too tight and won't return to center when going around corners etc which means that the steering box needs to be replaced.
2000 WJ- 4.7L HO swap, 247, 4" tera-flex lift, 32's, KOR Rock Rails, IRO Skid, etc...
YRKOVERLAND I did it your way. First time wasn't quite enough second time way to much and made steering tight and would not return to center but the third time I think will be just right. The morning commute in rush hour heading towards Chicago will be the true test, especially with the high winds we are having right now. I'll let you know for sure if it fixes it but definitely a lot better around town. Thanks