^ I was thinking the same thing. Honestly it doesn't look too bad (as long as the cylinder wall isn't damaged) so I'd throw a new slug in it and new heads and run it. It's a shame this happened so far away from home, otherwise it would be an easy repair.
Sent from inside my 4.0.
Bear - 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo - 250,000 Miles, BDS 2" lift, Overland rock rails, Dynomax cat back exhaust, 245/75/16 Kumho KL78's, Rebuilt 4.0 @ 244,000 miles.
Apollo - 2008 Mazdaspeed3 - Mazdaspeed CAI, Mazdaspeed CBE, Prosport boost gauge.
Velvet - 2005 Ford Focus ST - Wife's ride
Then the money you spent on having the one head pulled isn't a total waste either. A few years ago I was having trouble finding 1 piston, could only find full sets available. Ending up hooking up with a guy who needed all 6 for a 3.7. So we bought a full set for a 4.7, and I got 1 from him. He needed 6 but I don't know whatever happened to the leftover 1.
Thanks again for the ongoing suggestions. It helps to get other perspectives since my judgment on this seems a little cloudy due to the added stress this has brought about.
I like the sound of replacing one piston, especially if I can get the rod loose from underneath. I have a good machine shop I've used near my house a bunch of times. If the machinist knows this "dropped seat" issue and thinks he can get a replacement seat to stick I may just do this as cheap as possible. The search for a single piston begins :-) I've got the 3 day road trip planned for Sept 14-16. Hopefully the weather in Boise holds out so my daughter's bike riding isn't too uncomfortable.
is the piston that bad or just a small ding? Walls clear and bearing not damaged? This stinks....sorry to hear the news
. I have an 02 limited v8 I bought to fix and sell same story #2 intake stuck partially open.
06-Corvette z51-6spd,b&b,K&N low miles.
77-Corvette Stingray 496 BBC/TH400 built 667hp+
00 WJ 4x4, 4.7 stroker, turbocharged,..lots more..
01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
96 Cherokee Country 4dr/2x2 White/Tan 3" Lift Sahara 18" Wheels 32.5"'s 99up head and intake- for sale soon!
If you can get the oil pan off, then you can always try the "cheap" approach by just replacing the one piston or at least pull it out and see what it looks like for the cylinder walls. use www.car-part.com to see if you can find a yard close to you that has a engine and or a jeep part, like a air bag or something. Basically you just want to get the parts listing for various yards. Can call and ask if they have any broke or core engines that are in good shape so you can have piston. While you calling you can also ask about the heads, if you can find a used set of heads, you can drop them off and get a complete valve job for about $100 or so. I look forward to seeing a thread with your progress and woes. Don't give up! you can do it yourself!
if you wait a few weeks, you can find some nice flood cars from the southern half of the states
Well my son and I made the trip to Boise and back without any troubles. IT was almost exactly 1300 miles round trip. I've seen enough of eastern Oregon to last a lifetime.
The gouge in the piston is deeper than the pictures show. It would definitely burn hot. This weekend I'm going to take a look at the possibility of replacing the Piston without pulling the block. If it looks feasible I may go that route.
Hey happy to hear you got it back home. I don't know if you can get #2 piston out that way. But I can't say for sure one way or the other. I tried searching on it. I was hoping you can but it seems more likely not than do able. Please look into it. You have suffered enough already and it would certainly add to your misery to pull the oil pan first then find you can't get the piston out. I just hope theres some happy ending to this one way or the other.
Well after a lot of thinking, pricing and talking this over with my daughter decided on a a full rebuild of her motor. It's been a little slow going as we got the parts together, machine work and our schedules don't mesh well. My daughter wants to learn how to rebuild a motor so like any dad would, I said hell yeah. It's a beautiful thing to see my daughter with a torque wrench.
I have a question for this group concerning rod bearings. Tonight we got the rings on the pistons after doing all the gap and groove clearance checks. As we were getting ready to drop the first piston I bust open the King Rod Bearings (CR8030SI) and find all 16 bearing halves do not have the tang on them to prevent bearing spin. I'm no engine rebuild guru, but I've built a few and have never seen a set of rod or main bearings without the tang to prevent bearing spin. I'm thinking this was a packaging mistake and maybe I got two sets of top halves or something. Has anyone done a 4.7 rebuild where there wasn't a tang on the rod bearings? Picture provided, all 16 bearings are like the one shown. It scares the crap out of me just thinking of installing the bearings like this. Double checking the King Bearing part number on various sites checks out but my gut says this situation is wrong. As always, all replies and help is welcome.
I saw a uk program called the garage. They did the bearings on a jeep and they were the same as yours. The dealer said they were correct and you need a special tool to put the tang in the edge. They improvised with what tools they had to hand
If engine has a problem, fix that problem!
Broken piston, replace piston, valve seat fell off, replace valve seat!
I just repaired 4.7 and 4.0 WJ engines.
Your engine can be easily repaired, no big deal.
$18 piston, $5 each valve.
Be very careful with upper chain guide bolt, previous mechanic broke it in my car. He also broke a few valves by bad timing.
timing chain installation require special tool, holding cam chains to a sprocket.
I used some rope, which I pulled out after installation.
I'll make a picture if you need it.
Do not replace good bearings!
Only use new rings on new piston!
Lap valves to check, if machine shop is needed.
Your daughter is very pretty.
2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof. Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!