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50" SINGLE ROW PANDEMIC LED Light bar FEATURES 4D OptPANDEMIC-USA 50" Double row LED LIGHT BAR!! These thiFS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great value

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Unread 03-25-2014, 05:39 AM   #91
squire_wj
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If you know someone with a little wire feeder or stick machine and know what there doing that would be the way to go IMO. As for the 90mm bolts they threaded all the way down on my diff.

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Unread 03-25-2014, 09:43 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlw7353 View Post
Well thanks, thats explaining why these things dont seem to want to come out easy. I dont weld but I saw that process online. Is this a common enough practice that I could I get someone to come out and do that? I ordered some backouts that are a little different from what I've seen before. these have a relatively short reverse thread grabber section that doesn't go down to a point and a hex head on top. It looked to me like it would have less of a possibility of breaking off.
Another question, when I get the 80mm broken stud out and try to put the 90mm bolt in, is the hole tapped all the way down or do I have to add some threads? thanks
Everything Squire said was right on the money. If you know anyone that is even a semi skilled welder he should be able to do the job. If you do not know a welder and if there is a machine or fab shop close by you could discreetly ask if any of the guys has a small welder and if for a small fee they would remove the bolts, often this works because many machinist and welders moonlight.

My next suggestion could be more expensive, if you live near a good sized city, there may be a mobile service that specializes in removing broken taps, drills bolts spark plugs or whatever. Usually they are machinist that went in on their own or they are moonlighting. They get really skilled at removing broken taps drill and bolts because they do it so often in day in and day out work. One guy I know built his own EDM and was making a few extra buck under the table with it. The link below is an example of what to look for.

http://www.brokentap.com/services.html

SO....Search your local yellow pages for broken tap or broken bolt removal service. They should have all the required tools they may even have an EDM machine, although EDM is messy and works better on broken taps and drills than on bolts.

Say...Just so you have the numbers...The original OEM flange bolts with just the ball joint screwed in to a depth of 1.200"

90 mm bolts with flat washer and 2" spacer and the ball joint will screw in to a depth of 1.249" = .049" deeper that is less than one thread deeper so as Squire said thread depth will not be a problem.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 11:28 AM   #93
rlw7353
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the 3 broke studs are out! I found a welder to come by and do it using the washer and nut method. now for a weekend put-back-together
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Unread 03-27-2014, 11:48 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlw7353 View Post
the 3 broke studs are out! I found a welder to come by and do it using the washer and nut method. now for a weekend put-back-together
Congrats! It should go back together a lot easier.

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Unread 03-27-2014, 12:39 PM   #95
squire_wj
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Glad to hear my method worked out for you.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 03:04 PM   #96
Tollmtn
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Originally Posted by rlw7353 View Post
the 3 broke studs are out! I found a welder to come by and do it using the washer and nut method. now for a weekend put-back-together
You may know this, the Jeep/Mopar recommended torque for the three bolts is 100 ft/lbs. That may seem low, but it is not low considering that the 44A differential is aluminum.
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Unread 03-29-2014, 01:22 PM   #97
rlw7353
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it is done-

for now at least. not something I particulary enjoyed but a necessary project for me and the 16 year old whose main technical skill in life is a iphone. I couldn't get a torque wrench on the 3 bolts so they are as tight as I could apply with a end wrench. Thanks for all the help!
finished.jpg

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Unread 04-04-2014, 02:27 PM   #98
brouwmat
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A Crows foot wrench will help with that.

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Unread 05-27-2015, 09:04 PM   #99
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BUMP!

I just picked up a Zone 4" lift kit, and noted that the bolts supplied for the RUCA spacer are 80MM. Looks like I'll need to stop by the local nut and bolt supply to pick up the correct 90MM bolts and flat washers.

FWIW, I purchased a never used Rusty's RUCA spacer from a fellow forum member some months back to use on my wife's WJ. It came in the original bag with hardware, suspecting the typical issues with some Rusty's products, I blindly assumed that the bolts were too short and picked up some 90MM replacements just in case. Turns out Rusty's supplies you with the correct 90MM bolts, sans the flat washers. The bolts were black phosphate coated 10.9 grade to boot.

So, in summary:

Zone Offroad RUCA Spacer = new 90MM bolts and washers needed to replace the hardware they provide.

Rusty's RUCA Spacer = bolts good to go, just need washers.
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Unread 05-28-2015, 05:45 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by Merc1973 View Post
I hope RC pays for your new D44a.

or get a used junkyard axle.
Im in the middle of trying to find a rear end for my WJ, 10/10 do not recommend. Both they have pulled so far have had missing teeth and lots of shavings
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Unread 05-30-2015, 02:08 AM   #101
Johnyre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
BUMP!

I just picked up a Zone 4" lift kit, and noted that the bolts supplied for the RUCA spacer are 80MM. Looks like I'll need to stop by the local nut and bolt supply to pick up the correct 90MM bolts and flat washers.

FWIW, I purchased a never used Rusty's RUCA spacer from a fellow forum member some months back to use on my wife's WJ. It came in the original bag with hardware, suspecting the typical issues with some Rusty's products, I blindly assumed that the bolts were too short and picked up some 90MM replacements just in case. Turns out Rusty's supplies you with the correct 90MM bolts, sans the flat washers. The bolts were black phosphate coated 10.9 grade to boot.

So, in summary:

Zone Offroad RUCA Spacer = new 90MM bolts and washers needed to replace the hardware they provide.

Rusty's RUCA Spacer = bolts good to go, just need washers.
Are you sure zones spacer is as thick as iro? In iros website I found the bolt size and it was 80. I know rc had a problem with bolts shaping because they were to short but now all spacers are the same height so make sure you actually need longer bolts
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Unread 05-30-2015, 09:40 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by Johnyre View Post
Are you sure zones spacer is as thick as iro? In iros website I found the bolt size and it was 80. I know rc had a problem with bolts shaping because they were to short but now all spacers are the same height so make sure you actually need longer bolts
NOTE that I was wrong on the length and edited this post.

It is a good thing that you noticed that, people should be warned to replace those bolts. Because when I installed my IRO critical path junk in 2010 the bolts they supplied with the 2" spacer were 85mm long.

EDIT sorry I was flat wrong I should have reread what length I originally measured instead of going by memory, going by memory is dangerous LOL. The bolts in my spacer were 80mm not 85mm

They were a little short but were long enough to not strip out even with quite severe use. Kevin's spacer is 2 1/4" and if I remember correctly Kevin supplies 95mm long bolts. EDIT Well when I check that out I did not remember correctly Kevins uses 100MM bolts on his 2 1/4" spacer.
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Unread 05-30-2015, 09:50 AM   #103
Jeeples
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnyre View Post
Are you sure zones spacer is as thick as iro? In iros website I found the bolt size and it was 80. I know rc had a problem with bolts shaping because they were to short but now all spacers are the same height so make sure you actually need longer bolts

I mentioned the two brands of RUCA spacer that I have experience with, as one is installed in my wife's WJ @ 3" of lift and the other is sitting in my basement waiting to be installed with the rest of my lift.

Here's a photo of how my Zone spacer measured out, IIRC, the Rusty's spacer was roughly the same:



Now, given that we know the following:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tollmtn View Post

Say...Just so you have the numbers...The original OEM flange bolts with just the ball joint screwed in to a depth of 1.200"

90 mm bolts with flat washer and 2" spacer and the ball joint will screw in to a depth of 1.249" = .049" deeper that is less than one thread deeper so as Squire said thread depth will not be a problem.
The additional .136" of height on my spacer lessens the thread in depth of the 90MM bolts + washers, which should give me a total thread in depth of 1.113", which is roughly a little over one full thread short of OE depth. If I forgo the washers (or perhaps I can find a flange headed bolt), that will true it up even more, but I doubt that will really make any difference. Unfortunately stepping up to a 95MM long bolt will put me even further over the OE thread depth at 1.309", which could cause the bolt to bottom out or damage the threads before being fully tightened down.

As mentioned on page one of this thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tollmtn View Post
For reference the bolts supplied with I.R.O.'s aluminum 2" spacer are M14X80mm class 10.9. With a flat washer the bolt is about 77mm (about 3"). When I compare the stock bolts with the bolt that came with the spacer it looks like to have the same amount of thread engagement the bolts need to be 90MM long rather than 80mm. Still I used and abused the 80mm long bolts for several years on vicious trails and they held up fine.
IRO's bolts have been found to be a bit on the short side, although I'm unaware of any failures from them. That being said, if IRO's spacer doesn't measure a true 2" and comes in over that spec, then you're shortening up their effective thread depth even more.
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Unread 05-30-2015, 10:47 AM   #104
Tollmtn
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Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
I mentioned the two brands of RUCA spacer that I have experience with, as one is installed in my wife's WJ @ 3" of lift and the other is sitting in my basement waiting to be installed with the rest of my lift.

Here's a photo of how my Zone spacer measured out, IIRC, the Rusty's spacer was roughly the same:
Crap! I should have reread my own post instead of going by memory LOL. I went back and edited my mistake in my last reply. The length of the bolts supplied they WERE 80mm not 85MM. And even thought they were short they held up to plenty of abuse.

To add some more info to the spacer width/height data base....My aluminum IRO spacer was a casting that does not appear to have been machined on the mating surfaces. However the thickness is fairly uniform and the mounting surfaces fairly smooth for a casting. The thickness (height) varies only .005", total height is between 2.010" and 2.015"
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Unread 05-30-2015, 03:44 PM   #105
Jeeples
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^ So in your opinion is it still fair to say that 90MM bolts are the way to go for a ~ 2" spacer?

Obviously there is some manufacturing variances along with finishes that will affect overall width/height between each available brand. Where do we draw the line in stepping up to a 95MM bolt? 2.25" total thickness like the KOR spacer?
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