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Unread 03-21-2014, 11:49 PM   #76
Johnyre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03CUSEWJ View Post
Am I the only one that hates this stupid rear upper control arm design? It seems like the four arm setup worked fine for decades. Why the heck did they have to mess with perfectly good tech? Damn Engineers!
They wanted something new for the Wj

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Unread 03-22-2014, 09:31 PM   #77
LouC
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And went back to the 4 link for the WK....
The 4 link dates all the way back to the 60s when GM started using it for their full size cars...
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Unread 03-22-2014, 09:46 PM   #78
Johnyre
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Originally Posted by LouC View Post
And went back to the 4 link for the WK....
The 4 link dates all the way back to the 60s when GM started using it for their full size cars...
Because they realized the "three link" is crap in the wj
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As I roll down the trail,I hope my traction will not fail.But if I spin & begin to slide,please dear lord protect my ride
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cloud-9-Crawlers/129955857071110
http://fortcollinswheelers.com
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Unread 03-23-2014, 01:02 AM   #79
fiveseven15
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i thought grade 8s were gold colored?
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Unread 03-23-2014, 01:05 AM   #80
Johnyre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveseven15 View Post
i thought grade 8s were gold colored?
No ans are or anc whatever they are called
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As I roll down the trail,I hope my traction will not fail.But if I spin & begin to slide,please dear lord protect my ride
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cloud-9-Crawlers/129955857071110
http://fortcollinswheelers.com
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Unread 03-23-2014, 01:12 AM   #81
fiveseven15
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dang i gotta brush up on this stuff
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Unread 03-23-2014, 06:27 PM   #82
rlw7353
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My status after about 6 hours in today: rear end dropped, 2 bolts drilled, 1 fully drilled with LH bit but did not budge, same did not budge with a small size easy-out, second bolt drilled clear through with a small bit. tired, somewhat depressed after all this, and now on my 3rd drink. plan of action is to get large size easyout and continue drillouts. did see that my rear coil spring isolators are in need of replacement so I guess that a good thing. I don't see any indication of threadlocker on the broken bolts so I'm concerned that these will not budge. soaking in PB Blast. please forward all sympathies and advice. Richard
rear-axle-20140323-2009-2-.jpg

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Unread 03-24-2014, 03:56 AM   #83
asatxj
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Ive had it with the A arm setup, I'm going to fab a HD one when the weather warms up. There are pics etc here if you do a search. Then I'm back to stock bolts on top of the diff and no issues like this going on. I'm convinced that many of the "why'd they do that?" things on vehicles are engineers saving their job. Take the Tstat housing on my 09 Avenger- designed to leak!
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Unread 03-24-2014, 10:15 AM   #84
brouwmat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlw7353 View Post
My status after about 6 hours in today: rear end dropped, 2 bolts drilled, 1 fully drilled with LH bit but did not budge, same did not budge with a small size easy-out, second bolt drilled clear through with a small bit. tired, somewhat depressed after all this, and now on my 3rd drink. plan of action is to get large size easyout and continue drillouts. did see that my rear coil spring isolators are in need of replacement so I guess that a good thing. I don't see any indication of threadlocker on the broken bolts so I'm concerned that these will not budge. soaking in PB Blast. please forward all sympathies and advice. Richard
Are you trying to get the bolts out of the diff? Get yourself a 22 (or 23, I don't 100% remember right now) mm ratcheting wrench, a 4 ft steel pipe (good sized pipe), and a couple of beefy u-bolts. Bolt the wrench to the pipe on one end. You should be able to turn them out with this.


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Unread 03-24-2014, 10:22 AM   #85
Johnyre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brouwmat View Post
Are you trying to get the bolts out of the diff? Get yourself a 22 (or 23, I don't 100% remember right now) mm ratcheting wrench, a 4 ft steel pipe (good sized pipe), and a couple of beefy u-bolts. Bolt the wrench to the pipe on one end. You should be able to turn them out with this.


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the u-bolts are over kill. And the pipe would be called a cheater bar
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As I roll down the trail,I hope my traction will not fail.But if I spin & begin to slide,please dear lord protect my ride
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cloud-9-Crawlers/129955857071110
http://fortcollinswheelers.com
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Unread 03-24-2014, 10:25 AM   #86
brouwmat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnyre View Post
the u-bolts are over kill. And the pipe would be called a cheater par
Unless you get a pipe that is big enough for the wrench to slide into, you will need the bolts to attach the wrench to the pipe. Otherwise, you will have a pipe and a wrench and nothing attaching them together.


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Unread 03-24-2014, 12:31 PM   #87
Tollmtn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlw7353 View Post
My status after about 6 hours in today: rear end dropped, 2 bolts drilled, 1 fully drilled with LH bit but did not budge, same did not budge with a small size easy-out, second bolt drilled clear through with a small bit. tired, somewhat depressed after all this, and now on my 3rd drink. plan of action is to get large size easyout and continue drillouts. did see that my rear coil spring isolators are in need of replacement so I guess that a good thing. I don't see any indication of threadlocker on the broken bolts so I'm concerned that these will not budge. soaking in PB Blast. please forward all sympathies and advice. Richard
LH drills usually spin out broken bolts in steel but very seldom work the same in aluminum. Getting broken bolts out of aluminum is usually a chore because the threads in the aluminum distort slightly and the soft sticky aluminum locks the threads together. The same thing happens in steel but not to the same extent. So....Usually when I am center punching for drilling I am very careful to punch dead center so if I have to drill the bolt all the way out I will not wipe out the threads.

But I also do something else with the center punch or a larger punch. When the bolt broke it was very likely in a lot of tension and it may have been being bent. If I can detect the direction of the force that broke the bolt I try to punch the bolt stub in the opposite direction with enough force to move the threads back toward their original position. Sometimes it works sometimes it does not, every case is different. One other thing that was mentioned by I believe Squire was he heated the area up. I can see where that could help because the aluminum will expand considerably more than the steel bolt stub.
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Unread 03-24-2014, 02:22 PM   #88
squire_wj
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When I did mine I gave up trying to easy out them, I welded a washer on to the broken bolt. And then welded a nut onto the washer and it came right out.
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Unread 03-24-2014, 04:47 PM   #89
Johnyre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brouwmat View Post
Unless you get a pipe that is big enough for the wrench to slide into, you will need the bolts to attach the wrench to the pipe. Otherwise, you will have a pipe and a wrench and nothing attaching them together.


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Yeah that's true. Most people don't keep different size cheaters around
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As I roll down the trail,I hope my traction will not fail.But if I spin & begin to slide,please dear lord protect my ride
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cloud-9-Crawlers/129955857071110
http://fortcollinswheelers.com
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Unread 03-25-2014, 04:42 AM   #90
rlw7353
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Well thanks, thats explaining why these things dont seem to want to come out easy. I dont weld but I saw that process online. Is this a common enough practice that I could I get someone to come out and do that? I ordered some backouts that are a little different from what I've seen before. these have a relatively short reverse thread grabber section that doesn't go down to a point and a hex head on top. It looked to me like it would have less of a possibility of breaking off.
Another question, when I get the 80mm broken stud out and try to put the 90mm bolt in, is the hole tapped all the way down or do I have to add some threads? thanks
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