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Unread 08-20-2013, 05:30 AM   #16
D0dgeRam1500
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When I installed their A-Arm spacer I noticed the bolts felt light and replaced them with grade 8 bolts. Every bolt under my Jeep is now grade 8.

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Unread 08-20-2013, 07:19 AM   #17
asatxj
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I have a spare D44A from a v8 grand $250 if you want it. A little bit of a drive though. Sorry to hear about your disaster. Keep us posted.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 01:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D0dgeRam1500 View Post
When I installed their A-Arm spacer I noticed the bolts felt light and replaced them with grade 8 bolts. Every bolt under my Jeep is now grade 8.
You likely know this but for those that do not, there is not such a thing as a grade 8 metric bolt. Metric class and inch bolt grade do not equate. An 8.8 class metric bolt is roughly the equivalent of a grade 5 inch bolt, a 10.9 class metric bolt is roughly the equivalent of a grade 8 inch bolt. So I take it you mean you replaced the spacer bolts with class 10.9 bolts.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 01:31 PM   #19
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I 'd take it to someone who has the capacity to pull the broken ones out of the aluminum cast. It can be tricky drilling, easy outing, and possibility retapping. The cost is the tools and your labor, plus getting PO'd, would be worth the price of a good shop. Of course the manufacturer should pick most if not all of this. But they'll weasel their ought of it one way or another.

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Unread 08-20-2013, 06:21 PM   #20
tinman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asatxj
I have a spare D44A from a v8 grand $250 if you want it. A little bit of a drive though. Sorry to hear about your disaster. Keep us posted.
Thanks for the offer I'd struggle driving my motorcycle from Michigan to Denver carrying a dana 44. Lol! Thanks anyway!
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Unread 08-20-2013, 06:25 PM   #21
tinman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marksikern
I 'd take it to someone who has the capacity to pull the broken ones out of the aluminum cast. It can be tricky drilling, easy outing, and possibility retapping. The cost is the tools and your labor, plus getting PO'd, would be worth the price of a good shop. Of course the manufacturer should pick most if not all of this. But they'll weasel their ought of it one way or another.

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after I pulled the axle last night and looked at it again today i think it's beyond repair. I'm not sure i would trust it at 80 miles an hour. Can't even get a return phone call from RC. I called three times throughout the day, maybe tomorrow
Thanks!
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Unread 08-20-2013, 06:30 PM   #22
Marksikern
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I'd just get a different one, might be able to get one from a junk yard fairly reasonable. If your lucky they'll already have it off the old one. Take your old one off, pop on the new one, refill with new, clean gear old and hit those trails. Good luck.

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Unread 08-20-2013, 06:31 PM   #23
Tollmtn
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Originally Posted by tinman77 View Post
So here's the verdict! I guess first things first, thank you to everyone for the vast knowledge of bolt classifications. After doing some digging the factory bolts are class 10.9 and the bolts supplied are class 8.8. Since the case is cracked on one of the bolts I decided to try drilling the other 2 bolts and use an easy out with the axle in place. Since I do not remember using lock tight I figured it would be a cinch. Big mistake! Low and behold after breaking two easy outs the broken bolts still remain. So I ended up removing the entire axle tonight with hope that I did not do any more damage than what was done. I believe now I'm in the market for a new rear axle! So tomorrow I plan on doing some more drilling and cleaning to see if I can salvage my mishap. Still no word from RC so I'll be calling them tomorrow. All I can hope for is that no one else runs into this issue.
Besides supplying the wrong class of bolts exactly how thick is RC's spacer and exactly how long are the bolts they supplied?

Why I ask is after thinking about this and adding up the bolt lengths numbers this could happen to others with other brand spacers. My IRO spacer was 2" thick and they supplied 80mm (3.149") bolts. So IRO's spacer bolts were not as long as they would need to be to screw in as deep as the OEM bolts. Mine lasted fine but I now know all was not as good as it should have been.

OEM bolts with just the ball joint screw in 1.200". 80mm bolts w/2" spacer, a washer and ball joint only screw in .855". With a two inch spacer 90mm (3.543") bolts would be best, they would screw in 1.245 so just slightly better than the OEM bolts 1.200" depth. I notice that Kevins supplies 100mm (3.937") bolts with his 2 1/4" spacer, so it looks like Kevins did their homework his bolts screw in the deepest.

Knowing what we know now if anyone has a 2" spacer be aware that you should not take my word for it but check this out for yourself. IMO you add risk of stripping the aluminum holes if your bolts are shorter than 90mm.

I hope this is some ammo for you if you ever get RC to return your calls.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 06:36 PM   #24
tinman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tollmtn

Besides supplying the wrong class of bolts exactly how thick is RC's spacer and exactly how long are the bolts they supply?

Why I ask is after thinking about this and adding up the bolt lengths numbers this could happen to others with other brand spacers. My IRO spacer was 2" thick and they supplied 80mm (3.149") bolts. So IRO's spacer bolts were not as long as they would need to be to screw in as deep as the OEM bolts. Mine lasted fine but I now know all was not as good as it should have been.

OEM bolts with just the ball joint screw in 1.200". 80mm bolts w/2" spacer, a washer and ball joint only screw in .855". With a two inch spacer 90mm (3.543") bolts would be best, they would screw in 1.245 so just slightly better than the OEM bolts 1.200" depth. I notice that Kevins supplies 100mm (3.937") bolts with his 2 1/4" spacer, so it looks like Kevins did their homework his bolts screw in the deepest.

Knowing what we know now if anyone has a 2" spacer be aware that you should not take my word for it but check this out for yourself. IMO you add risk of stripping the aluminum holes if your bolts are shorter than 90mm.
I wish I was at home right now! I believe that the spacer is 2" and the bolts are only 75mm. There is roughly half an inch give or take of bolt left In the casing. I was able to drill all the way through one bolt and did not bottom out in the casting. I still have the by from the kit that did not break, it's slightly bent but I should be able to measure it.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 07:23 PM   #25
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4 link it. Problem solved.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 07:48 PM   #26
Tollmtn
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Originally Posted by tinman77 View Post
I wish I was at home right now! I believe that the spacer is 2" and the bolts are only 75mm. There is roughly half an inch give or take of bolt left In the casing. I was able to drill all the way through one bolt and did not bottom out in the casting. I still have the by from the kit that did not break, it's slightly bent but I should be able to measure it.
X2 on what Skain said or truss it.

If the bolt turn out to be 75MM that's pathetic. I notice that the OEM bolts have a little of the bolt body sticking through the ball joints steel base. So I didn't look at mine when it was apart but I imagine that the diff holes are slightly counter bored to bolt body size at the top. If that is the case the threads do not start till a ways down the hole so you would have had less than 1/2" of threads with full contact.

I would get that all sorted out before I talked to RC. Good luck, in my dealings with another parts supplier on a bad design I had the feeling that they were like the guy that buys a hammer and a saw, builds a chicken coop then thinks he's a carpenter, they had 100 excuses all of them B.S.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 11:07 PM   #27
tinman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tollmtn View Post
Besides supplying the wrong class of bolts exactly how thick is RC's spacer and exactly how long are the bolts they supplied?

Why I ask is after thinking about this and adding up the bolt lengths numbers this could happen to others with other brand spacers. My IRO spacer was 2" thick and they supplied 80mm (3.149") bolts. So IRO's spacer bolts were not as long as they would need to be to screw in as deep as the OEM bolts. Mine lasted fine but I now know all was not as good as it should have been.

OEM bolts with just the ball joint screw in 1.200". 80mm bolts w/2" spacer, a washer and ball joint only screw in .855". With a two inch spacer 90mm (3.543") bolts would be best, they would screw in 1.245 so just slightly better than the OEM bolts 1.200" depth. I notice that Kevins supplies 100mm (3.937") bolts with his 2 1/4" spacer, so it looks like Kevins did their homework his bolts screw in the deepest.

Knowing what we know now if anyone has a 2" spacer be aware that you should not take my word for it but check this out for yourself. IMO you add risk of stripping the aluminum holes if your bolts are shorter than 90mm.

I hope this is some ammo for you if you ever get RC to return your calls.
Got it! So what I did tonight was drill a small hole next to the broken easy out and drove a nail in the hole. From there I took a hammer and prison shank and tapped the broken bolt in both directions until it finally turned. So long story short I was able to get out the last two bolts. Cleaned up the threads and installed the factory class10.9 bolts and torqued them to 120ftlbs to test my handy work. Your numbers are right on the money! The supplied bolts are only 75mm. The broken pieces are a 1/2" long. I ordered some 80mm long bolts from fastenall and now I'm second guessing my self I think I'm going to order some 100mm bolts tomorrow just to be safe. The threads on two of the three holes are not the cleanest due to my drilling ability and the broken cast so i it's probably safe to say the 100mm bolts are the route to take.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 11:29 PM   #28
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Thanks for the offer I'd struggle driving my motorcycle from Michigan to Denver carrying a dana 44. Lol! Thanks anyway!
I use to live near Denver many moons ago. There are two pick-a-part yards not far from you. U Pull & Pay and LKQ Pick Your Part. You can check out their inventory online and the prices are in the $100 range. Right now they have some 99 to 02's on their lots. I am not sure what the compatibility with an 04 is. I think that there may be a couple more in that area as well (pick-a-parts).

Is yours a Vari-Lok, I know that it was an option on the Columbia? I think that it was a 3.73.

On your way, make sure that you stop at Sheridan and 120th, the Pearl Wok, killer Chinese!
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Unread 08-20-2013, 11:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by tinman77 View Post
Got it! So what I did tonight was drill a small hole next to the broken easy out and drove a nail in the hole. From there I took a hammer and prison shank and tapped the broken bolt in both directions until it finally turned. So long story short I was able to get out the last two bolts. Cleaned up the threads and installed the factory class10.9 bolts and torqued them to 120ftlbs to test my handy work. Your numbers are right on the money! The supplied bolts are only 75mm. The broken pieces are a 1/2" long. I ordered some 80mm long bolts from fastenall and now I'm second guessing my self I think I'm going to order some 100mm bolts tomorrow just to be safe. The threads on two of the three holes are not the cleanest due to my drilling ability and the broken cast so i it's probably safe to say the 100mm bolts are the route to take.
Good deal.....so forget the pick-a-parts but still hit the Pearl Wok!
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Unread 08-21-2013, 04:15 AM   #30
D0dgeRam1500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tollmtn View Post
You likely know this but for those that do not, there is not such a thing as a grade 8 metric bolt. Metric class and inch bolt grade do not equate. An 8.8 class metric bolt is roughly the equivalent of a grade 5 inch bolt, a 10.9 class metric bolt is roughly the equivalent of a grade 8 inch bolt. So I take it you mean you replaced the spacer bolts with class 10.9 bolts.
I'm all SAE now.
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2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi QC SB 4x4 SLT Texas Ranch Edition #0037 - Sold
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[URL="http://50.87.144.118/~tonkatoy/index.php"]Jersey Jeepers[/URL]

[QUOTE=EugeneTheTJ;15193707]His dad should've pulled out but he failed. Hence the ******* you interacted with.[/QUOTE]

For Sale:
[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f126/99-04-jeep-grand-cherokee-rear-driveshaft-2216857/"]WJ NV247/D44a Rear Drive Shaft[/URL]
[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f128/plug-play-1999-02-jeep-grand-cherokee-sub-woofer-kit-2216849/"]Plug and Play Jeep Grand Cherokee Sub Woofer Kit[/URL]
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