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TJ 5.25" Speaker Adapters - NalinMFGSmittybilt Products at Oconee Off-Road!Alloy USA Still Available

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Unread 08-17-2013, 12:16 AM   #1
tinman77
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Ahhhhh CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!

So has anyone other than myself ever had all 3 bolts break on the rear differential mount???? I can't believe this happened just last night as I was pulling on to a street i got this sudden jerk and grind. It sounded and felt like a wheel was loose on the rear. I pulled over and could not see anything wrong. So I grabbed my lug wrench and began checking lug nuts. When i wrenched on the first one the entire wheel moved back and forth. Not good! So I rolled underneath and quickly realized that two of the three bolts that mount to the top of the diff had completely sheared off at the top of the housing. The other bolt broke the cast and actually ripped out of the housing. I just installed a rough country 4 inch Xtream lift about 3000 miles ago. I checked the bolts about 1000 miles after the lift and everything was fine! So now what? It's going to be a challenge getting the broken out!

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Unread 08-17-2013, 04:27 AM   #2
squire_wj
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Ouch...that sucks man. I have the 4 inch rough country x series as well. And that spacer is my only complaint, one of mine is stripped and wont get tight at all while the other two seem to back them selfs out from time to time. I would give rough country a call and see what they could do. Good luck
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Unread 08-17-2013, 04:31 AM   #3
alfaitalia
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Looking at the one that pulled out against the ones that snapped, it looks like theres very little thread in the soft alloy casing to be under quite a bit of load. Id guess that the one snapped out of the casing first which allowed the others to move back and forth until they snapped.
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Unread 08-17-2013, 05:05 AM   #4
99WJ539918
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That's crazy. I would definitely call Rough Country. How's your ball joint?
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Unread 08-17-2013, 09:00 AM   #5
tim0
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Ouch,
I hope it didn't damage much else.

I thought the instructions said to lock tight these bolts in. I know my original ones were and I did lock tight the new ones in.
In your pic there is clearly none on them.
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Unread 08-17-2013, 09:24 AM   #6
alfaitalia
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Since two snapped off and one broke the casing I dont think that them not being Locktighted would have made any difference!
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Unread 08-17-2013, 09:29 AM   #7
doityourselfMM
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What was the hardness of the bolts? Maybe softer than OEM? What a pain to (try to) remove.

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Unread 08-17-2013, 09:50 AM   #8
tinman77
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Lock tite or not I just checked them and they were tight. That is one thing that I noticed is the bolts that come with kit are stamped grade 8 and the factory bolts are stamped grade 10
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Unread 08-17-2013, 12:36 PM   #9
narnwv
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The bolts are too short, as mentioned on here in a few places.

We've been telling them for a while that they need longer bolts.

In my build thread you can see the longer ones.

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Unread 08-17-2013, 03:37 PM   #10
Olese
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Wouldn't longer bolts be the answer if the threads were pulling and stripping, locktite be the answer if they were coming loose, and higher grade bolts if they are snapping off?

Obviously with the addition of the spacer, it is going to put more stress on those bolts. I have never heard of grade 10 but I have heard of grade 9 (which is not in this chart) in SAE. I have also heard of grade Grade 8.8 and 10.9 in metric but doesn't apply in this situation.

In this situation, was it the chicken or the egg first? Did the one bolt pull first causing the other two to shear off or did they shear first causing the one to pull?

I would most certainly measure the depth of the threads in the housing and then add the thickness of the spacer. That would be the length bolts I would purchase and in the highest grade possible.

Is this housing a D44A or a D35? Aren't the D44A's aluminum and D35's cast iron? Possibly another issue.
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Unread 08-18-2013, 10:56 PM   #11
tinman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olese View Post
Wouldn't longer bolts be the answer if the threads were pulling and stripping, locktite be the answer if they were coming loose, and higher grade bolts if they are snapping off?

Obviously with the addition of the spacer, it is going to put more stress on those bolts. I have never heard of grade 10 but I have heard of grade 9 (which is not in this chart) in SAE. I have also heard of grade Grade 8.8 and 10.9 in metric but doesn't apply in this situation.

In this situation, was it the chicken or the egg first? Did the one bolt pull first causing the other two to shear off or did they shear first causing the one to pull?

I would most certainly measure the depth of the threads in the housing and then add the thickness of the spacer. That would be the length bolts I would purchase and in the highest grade possible.

Is this housing a D44A or a D35? Aren't the D44A's aluminum and D35's cast iron? Possibly another issue.

Points well taken I think its literally been over twenty years since I've looked at a bolt chart. The rear is a Dana 44 which means its aluminum...........Regardless of what happened first I suspect the bolts in the kit simply are not long enough nor are they strong enough. Now the hard part is going to be getting them out.
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Unread 08-19-2013, 08:39 AM   #12
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I hope RC pays for your new D44a.

or get a used junkyard axle.
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Unread 08-19-2013, 09:24 AM   #13
Tollmtn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman77 View Post
Lock tite or not I just checked them and they were tight. That is one thing that I noticed is the bolts that come with kit are stamped grade 8 and the factory bolts are stamped grade 10
The stock bolts are M14x35mm class 10.9, they have a flanged head so you don't need a flat washer so the whole 35mm length is usable. For reference the bolts supplied with I.R.O.'s aluminum 2" spacer are M14X80mm class 10.9. With a flat washer the bolt is about 77mm (about 3"). When I compare the stock bolts with the bolt that came with the spacer it looks like to have the same amount of thread engagement the bolts need to be 90MM long rather than 80mm. Still I used and abused the 80mm long bolts for several years on vicious trails and they held up fine.
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Unread 08-19-2013, 11:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman77 View Post
Now the hard part is going to be getting them out.
Well......... If you can't repair the broken-off section of the diff housing, there's really no point in trying to get them out. It'll be time for a new rear axle.

Being an aluminum D44a I suppose it can be aluminum-welded, retapped.... I don't know, I'd want a quality shop to do it if I tried it.

Good luck man, that's rough.
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Unread 08-19-2013, 11:29 PM   #15
tinman77
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So here's the verdict! I guess first things first, thank you to everyone for the vast knowledge of bolt classifications. After doing some digging the factory bolts are class 10.9 and the bolts supplied are class 8.8. Since the case is cracked on one of the bolts I decided to try drilling the other 2 bolts and use an easy out with the axle in place. Since I do not remember using lock tight I figured it would be a cinch. Big mistake! Low and behold after breaking two easy outs the broken bolts still remain. So I ended up removing the entire axle tonight with hope that I did not do any more damage than what was done. I believe now I'm in the market for a new rear axle! So tomorrow I plan on doing some more drilling and cleaning to see if I can salvage my mishap. Still no word from RC so I'll be calling them tomorrow. All I can hope for is that no one else runs into this issue.
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