Took the WJ to get the AC dried a week ago and filled since my I6 was out for a rebuild before winter. I also told the mechanic I had a leak before the motor was out so it needed checked for leaks. They figured it would be an evap leak. They dried and filled it and checked for leaks but didn't find any especally at the evap. Ice cold when i picked it up but didn't use it since its been cold outside. Ran it yesterday just to try it and it all must have leaked out because now the clutch won't even engage. Really disappointed because its not holding plus i didn't get any leaks identified. Called the mechanic and complained. They are going to take another look at it but if more than an hour, they are going to have to charge me something. My fear is that it is indeed the evap and i know what a chore that will be for me to fix. Any thoughs on what it could be since they did check for leaks with i think they said with a sniffer? How long should i let them look and pay for their time before i say quit? I wouldn't have minded spending the money if i would have gotten something out of it such as knowing where the leak was.
Problems like yours is the reason I quit letting shops work on my Jeep AC systems and now do all the work myself. I'm a little surprised they didn't add a little UV dye with the 134a to make leaks easier to see with a UV light and yellow glasses. But telling if the leak is in the evaporator is harder to detect.
Shops are always in a hurry and after evacuating then pulling vacuum down they don't wait long to see if it bleeds off. Normally I'll let mine set overnight and if the vacuum holds typically you won't have any 134a leaks. In fact that's exactly what I'd ask them to do and they shouldn't charge you for just letting it sit to see if vacuum holds overnight.
But since it did bleed off over time they may just want to evacuate/recharge. But you can bet they're going to try to make you pay for that 134a and oil again.
I have a very slight leak in my evaporator and bought the below sniffer tool from Amazon.
I went over everything AC related in the engine compartment, along with front condenser, and found no leaks. You would think sticking the tip of the sniffer in the middle vent with AC fully charged and on high it would signal a leak in my evaporator if there is one? It didn't but as soon as I moved the sniffer tool about 6" above the dash/vents the alarm sounded. This confirmed I do have an evaporator leak and it takes some experimenting on how to use this tool.
For probably $100 or less you could buy yourself a set of manifold gauges, , can valve, 134a, and pag oil to charge your system yourself. I didn't invest in an AC vacuum pump and just borrow one from one of the local parts stores. Something to think about and good luck.
You're welcome and I didn't know squat about AC systems until about 5 years ago. Self taught and bunches of good info, threads, and videos around.
Would bet you could have done a better job than those shop mechanics did!
PS. You probably were running the AC in cold weather since every time you turn the defroster on the AC kicks on for dry air being fed to the inside of the windshield. At least that's the way it's supposed to work as long as it's charged enough to kick the clutch/compressor on.
Yeah, below is a long-winded thread on when I was having problems with my AC manifold gauge readings in charging my 04 AC system last year. You gave me a good tip 86cj and most of the problems with the readings is I was reading them at idle instead of 1500 rpm. Once I increased the rpm's the readings changed to what they should be read.
Below is the Actron CP7806 AC manifold gauge set I bought 4 years ago. Actually the price has dropped about $15-$20 from what I paid and it's $50 now with a prime account. Not sure why it doesn't show the three 6' hoses but it does come with the set.
Plus a couple cans of reg 134a for under $20 for both.
There you go mustang and forget the shop while diy!
You can prolong pulling the dash and changing out the AC evaporator for quite a while if the leak isn't too big.
PS. I never did use any 134a w/sealer in it. And you have to watch buying 134a with the UV dye because almost all also have a sealer in them. I didn't want to add sealer and gunk the system up but this may be a last resort.
Went back to the garage this morning to find leak. The shop found a leak on the long hose that goes from the passenger side to the pump in cront of valve cover. It was leaking where it changed from metal line to the flex line. It took a little for it to start leaking. Shop is ordering hose and will replace it. Sniffer showed no leaks inside the cabin.
I hope they're covering the second recharge that will be necessary when they replace the line they should have found the first time they worked on it...
Doubtful. I was expecting to pay for a second recharge since i knew there was a leak and the only way to find the leak was to charge it. I figure the first charge was basically payment to find the leak.
Doubtful. I was expecting to pay for a second recharge since i knew there was a leak and the only way to find the leak was to charge it. I figure the first charge was basically payment to find the leak.
I know the average Joe doesn't have easy access but a shop that knows AC and fixes them often should have a bottle of nitrogen and use that instead of 134a.
I recently dealt with this on my Expedition. A/C was blowing hot. The dealer said it had 1oz in the system. They put a vacuum on it, said there were no leaks that they could find, filled it back up (with dye), checked it again, and sent me on my way with a $200 bill. 3 weeks later, it was back in for a new condenser. My warranty covered the second visit and since I complained about spending $200 for nothing, they didn't charge me the "extras" the warranty didn't cover. They tried telling me the $200 recharge at the first visit was the "diagnosis fee". Right.
It's unbelievable what those dealers come up with to charge you the 2nd time around and "diagnosis fee" could be any work they do. I'm like you and the "squeaky wheel gets the grease" where if you don't complain they'll rip you off what they should have found/fixed to begin with. Either that or I won't be back. Glad you talked them out of the 2nd fees.
BTW, it was last June I recharged my 04 4.7 myself. It was just blowing hot air before the recharge. I found a slight leak in the evaporator when my new sniffer tool alarm went off right up the front/middle dash vents. I didn't use any sealer in the 134a but just added dye. Must be an awful small leak since I'm happy to say my AC is still blowing real cold almost a year later. Knock on wood!
I recently dealt with this on my Expedition. A/C was blowing hot. The dealer said it had 1oz in the system. They put a vacuum on it, said there were no leaks that they could find, filled it back up (with dye), checked it again, and sent me on my way with a $200 bill. 3 weeks later, it was back in for a new condenser. My warranty covered the second visit and since I complained about spending $200 for nothing, they didn't charge me the "extras" the warranty didn't cover. They tried telling me the $200 recharge at the first visit was the "diagnosis fee". Right.
Well, my ac is no longer working. Compressor clutch is cycling. It worked on 7/1 for sure. Got back from vacation afer about a week and no more ac. Lasted about 2mo this time which is better that the 4 days it lasted last time. I have one of these gauges so put it on. It read 60 psi which is in the overcharge zone. I'm thinking, ok, maybe it somehow overcharged and there is no leak. I then started it put the ac on. When it cycles, it drops down to 15 psi. Why would it read high when it isn't running? If i go to the auto store, can i just pick a couple cans of freon up and use this hose to charge? What psi do i charge to, 40 psi in the blue? I wonder if it sitting for several days not running was a factor. Thanks.
The compressor must be running or that gauge will not be useful. The static pressure of r134a rises as the ambient temp rises. That's the pressure you're reading when the compressor is off. 15 PSI with the compressor on indicates a low charge. It also indicates that either your gauge is out of calibration or the low pressure switch in your a/c system is not working properly. It should turn of the compressor when the low side drops into the 25-30 PSI range.
You're really shooting in the dark with that gauge. A proper set of manifold gauges will provide much more useful info, even the cheap set from Harbor Freight.
My ac just died today, will have to go and check it tomorrow, if it comes to worst I will buy used compressor from junkyard. Just hoping it is not leaking. As I live in middle east and finding reasonably priced parts is difficult out here..
Got a can of stp freon withna sealer in it and filled up. Looked into the schrader valve after filling and i see air bubbles comming up. I'm guessing that is where my leak may be.
It's fairly common for the schrader valves to start leaking after a gauge has been connected. I've had to replace a couple over the years that leaked. Cheap part, but it requires evacuating the system to replace unless you have a very expensive specialty tool.
Too late now, since it's already in, but I've never heard or read anything good about those a/c system sealers.
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