AC compressor and dryer etc.. the same? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 56 Old 06-13-2017, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
Entropy76
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AC compressor and dryer etc.. the same?

I need to replace my compressor and dryer and I found one but it says for 2002-2004...I have a 2001 GC 4.7. Are they different?

Thanks guys.

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post #2 of 56 Old 06-13-2017, 01:54 AM
Uniblurb
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Probably the most accurate site I've found for comparing different year parts to see if they're the same is Rockauto. You enter in your info then pull the part up you're looking for. Click on the blue part number and it will tell you what years it fits. And just to double check I'll go into the other year to make sure the same part is there too.

As an example I entered in your 2001 4.7 GC. Entered AC compressor in the search box then clicked on it on the list. Probably the best one is the Denso 4710399 w/clutch and 2-pin connector below selling for $161 plus shipping.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....381452&jsn=379

And in clicking on the blue part number it says it fits the 1999-2004. Double checked by entering in the 04 4.7 w/o exiting out of the 01 and it's exactly the same.

Unfortunately the drier/accumulator is completely different and they're broke down by 99-01 or 2000-2001. They even have one w/o a pressure switch but guess that means you need to use your old one. The FourSeasons 56841 drier sells for $32 plus shipping and fits the 99-01.

Not sure if these prices are any better than your looking at?
Don't buy anything from RA w/o using a 5% discount code which are available below. You enter the code in the "How did you hear about us?" box at checkout. Not much off but helps pay for shipping. Good luck.

https://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #3 of 56 Old 06-13-2017, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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I should mention that it includes the dryer, expansion valve, PAG oil and o- rings.
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post #4 of 56 Old 06-13-2017, 02:11 AM
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Where are you finding this kit and do you have a link?

Edit: guess I should have just posted; compressor-yes, drier-no.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #5 of 56 Old 06-13-2017, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help guys. So I found another kit but it doesn't appear to cone with the expansion valve.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Compressor....c100408.m2460

What is the green thing in picture 4?
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post #6 of 56 Old 06-13-2017, 11:32 PM
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You're welcome and that green thing is the orifice tube. It's installed in the orifice tube hose assembly which is more often called the 'liquid line' w/the low pressure port installed in it. But as far as I know you can't install that orifice tube itself because it's crimped inside the end of the liquid line.

Not sure of the brand quality of that reman compressor and they sell the same type kit on Rockauto w/whole liquid line but they're $100 more.

It would be a good idea to install that liquid line since the small orifice can be clogged with dirt and fine metal. Below one on Rockauto is $26 plus shipping. And zoom in on the tube on the left end and you can see the 2 crimps where the actual orifice tube is internally.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....381452&jsn=381

You may want to check around at a local parts store but will probably pay twice the price. It is really difficult to have that line shipped w/o them bending it up.

And even when I bought that liquid line from Advance for my ZJ they had to order it 3-4 times before I got one which didn't look bent up like a pretzel.

I'd avoid Advance since they have real bad reviews on that ToughOne T56523 liquid line for $53 with the bends being 90 degrees off. Helps to take your old line in to match up and good luck.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #7 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Entropy76
Thanks for the help guys. So I found another kit but it doesn't appear to cone with the expansion valve. http://m.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Compressor....c100408.m2460 What is the green thing in picture 4?
To me that green thing looks like a filter assembly you shove inside the line.
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post #8 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
To me that green thing looks like a filter assembly you shove inside the line.
It's the orifice tube. There is a very fine screen to catch metal shavings (or as you would call it, "ware metal") from the compressor as it ages. Here's a close-up of the one that goes in my Suburban: http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...34_665252_4222
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post #9 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 11:30 AM
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^ agree Harry and even that kit says it comes with a "New Orifice Tube EX 10165C".

Kinda funny I used Autozone too in searching it out last night. Odd they say the above orifice tube doesn't fit the 01 WJ but the below one does.

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...-tube/877053_0

Moot point since you can't install it in the liquid line anyhow since it's crimped in. But have seen some go to extremes and cut the old orifice tube out while brazing a new one back in. But you sure wouldn't want to get any heat near that plastic or fine mesh screen.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #10 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryH3
It's the orifice tube. There is a very fine screen to catch metal shavings (or as you would call it, "ware metal") from the compressor as it ages. Here's a close-up of the one that goes in my Suburban: http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...34_665252_4222
interesting. My Cummins has a disk with a tiny hole in it crimped in the line. Why not shove something in there, I guess.....
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post #11 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again guys. I'm kinda getting overwhelmed though. The shop wants $775 to replace the compressor and dryer, along with parts, labor and taxes so I thought I would have them evacuate the cooling system and then replace the parts myself then have them charge it up.

Problem is, I see on the Denso compressor on Rock Auto that the warranty requires proof of new orifice line (it expansion valve), new dryer and a system flush. Is a flush necessary? It requires the solvent and a $100 flush tool. Not to mention it seems pretty complicated and time consuming. Then on top of that it's recommended to replace the evaporator which is going to require dash removal.

Any advice guess?
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post #12 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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*guys not guess...

P.s. How do you edit your posts on this forum?
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post #13 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 06:35 PM
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The problem with a compressor failure is it puts contaminants everywhere in the system. So a total flush or replace with new parts is needed just to ensure the compressor or reed valve assembly doesn't ingest something and cause another failure.

A place in Florida called Poller (the bear) something is where I bought my flush gun and solvent when I needed it. I bought a clutch removal tool kit there also as well as parts to rebuild the Sanden compressor on my old dodge Daytona.
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post #14 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 06:38 PM
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That's the problem in working on AC systems and the parts along with costs keep adding up. But those shop prices are too high so do most of it yourself.

The system should be flushed to get any fine metal/contaminants out of the system. The below AC flush tool is $35 while the flush itself is $15/qt.

https://www.amazon.com/FJC-2710-Syst.../dp/B0002JMEQW

A cheaper method would be to use the aerosol can AC flush but I'm unfamiliar with them and maybe 1 can wouldn't be enough? edit: problems with the Advance auto links again and it's $17/17oz can which may be enough.

You should install a new liquid line since that orifice tube in it could be clogged. Plus there will be metal/dirt on that fine screen which will stay even if flushed.

The evaporator is the tricky part trying to tell if it has a leak in it or not? You could install all your new parts then pull vacuum down on the AC system to see if it holds? But no guarantee it may not leak in the near future even if vacuum holds.

I don't own an AC vacuum pump but always borrow one at one of the local parts stores like Autozone or Advance. And I always keep it on there overnight to make sure vacuum is going to hold before charging.

With a completely empty system you should be able to charge it yourself. Just go by the spec for amount of PAG oil and amount of 134a an empty system takes. And the PAG oil should be split between multiple components according to once specs like compressor, drier, and condenser before assembly.

It's nice to have an AC manifold gauge set but it's not an absolute necessity in charging a completely empty system. But suggest using one if adding about 1/4 oz of AC UV dye to tell where any leaks may develop.

Don't use cans of 134a w/UV dye already in it because most also have a sealer in there you don't want use. Good luck.

PS. to edit a post I can click on the bottom of any of my posts since it has an 'edit' button at the bottom. You may need 20 posts to see the button or be able to edit.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #15 of 56 Old 06-15-2017, 07:12 PM
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It really depends on the cause of failure. If this is an internal failure that produced metal shaving then yeah, you need a flush, new drier and orifice tube. But if you're replacing the compressor because of a bad clutch, leaky/bad seal etc., then the above is not necessary. A new drier is still highly recommended in any case.

Stay away from reman compressors if you can. Many are just used parts that are spray painted. And if it was repaired, they probably just replaced what was broken (like putting a new seal), which means you are buying a used working unit with 15-20 yrs old internals, bearing and clutch. That's outrageously expensive for what you get. You might as well get one at the bone yard.

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