ABS help.. - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 10 Old 12-07-2016, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
jimbos76cj
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ABS help..

had my ABS codes run today.

rear wheel sensors
Hydraulic unit malfunction
Electronic control unit Malfunctions.

Ive seen a few write ups for other vehicle and jeep ECU just being some bad solder joints. any one ever had this go wrong? How did you fix it.

How hard is the hydraulic unit to replace?


88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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post #2 of 10 Old 12-07-2016, 02:57 PM
AVR2
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At the risk of stating the obvious, make sure you do full diagnostics before you think about replacing something like the hydraulic unit. All those codes could easily be caused just by bad solder joints and/or broken wires.

If the hydraulic unit really is at fault, then it's not hard to replace - just crack all the fluid lines and unbolt it! However, you'll absolutely need to run a full ABS bleed using a DRB3 or equivalent scan tool once you have the replacement plumbed in.
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post #3 of 10 Old 12-07-2016, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
jimbos76cj
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Thanks.. I'm not much of a soldering guy but from what I read I just need to melt the solder around most of the power joints and let them make better connections? Is this the same as the older gran Cherokees?

And no I don't plan on going crazy and just throwing money at it. Figured I'd sort out the ecu first and see if that has any change on the hydraulic pump.

88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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post #4 of 10 Old 12-08-2016, 12:19 AM
sdg3205
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Clear the codes (if you haven't already) and see if they come back. Sometimes I'll get an ABS code for an hour that disappears forever. Who knows. If you get the speed sensor code again, use real mopar speed sensors.

The hydraulic unit doesn't need to be removed. You can actually bolt on a new/used pump without opening the system.

Sometimes eBay is your friend. Search the ABS module code printed on your module and see what comes up. I got a used module and pump assembly for $40! Of course you have eBay buyer protection. Hard to beat.
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post #5 of 10 Old 12-08-2016, 01:23 AM
losttech
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Just about anytime I mess with the brakes I will get a ABS light I always check the bolts and make sure things are greased when I do a rotation of the tires.
Seems they always last a day or two I take them to the car wash and clean everything off and the light goes away had this happen on both my 99 4.7 and my 2000 4.0.
Don't know if I an knocking gunk down in there or what but happens about everytime the code clears and never comes back until I mess with it again.
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post #6 of 10 Old 12-08-2016, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
jimbos76cj
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I'm pretty certain my plan off attach is going to be repair/replace the ecu first and clear/rerun the codes. I have to replace the shocks so Ill clean the abs wheels and pick ups while I'm there.

Does any one have a link for repairing the 99-01 control units?

88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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post #7 of 10 Old 12-08-2016, 11:57 AM
Dan_in_MN
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Here's my thread on repairing the ABS unit. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...dered-3811658/

2000 WJ Grand Cherokee Black 236,000+ miles
Needs: Left rear wheel bearing. Front right CV joint.
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post #8 of 10 Old 12-11-2016, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
jimbos76cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_in_MN View Post
Here's my thread on repairing the ABS unit. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...dered-3811658/

Thanks so much for the help Dan.. I looked at your repair link and I have a few questions.

#1 What exactly did you solder up? was it just the prongs where the power come into the unit?

#2 what type of iron/gun and solder did you use?

#3 is there a clear jelly over the circuit board and how did you get it off?
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88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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post #9 of 10 Old 12-11-2016, 07:17 PM
Dan_in_MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbos76cj View Post
Thanks so much for the help Dan.. I looked at your repair link and I have a few questions.

#1 What exactly did you solder up? was it just the prongs where the power come into the unit?

#2 what type of iron/gun and solder did you use?

#3 is there a clear jelly over the circuit board and how did you get it off?
Yes I soldered the two pins.

I have a few soldering irons. I used one of them.

The "clear jelly" if there was any wasn't an issue.

I heated the pins until the solder flowed and then added more flux core solder.

I used gray silicone to seal the box back up.

2000 WJ Grand Cherokee Black 236,000+ miles
Needs: Left rear wheel bearing. Front right CV joint.
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post #10 of 10 Old 12-16-2016, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
jimbos76cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_in_MN View Post
Yes I soldered the two pins.

I have a few soldering irons. I used one of them.

The "clear jelly" if there was any wasn't an issue.

I heated the pins until the solder flowed and then added more flux core solder.

I used gray silicone to seal the box back up.
Thanks Dan.. Fixing that comp is on my list now.. not high but top 5. Next up is get the AC vacuumed and charged.
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88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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