About to install IRO longarms - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 84 Old 02-12-2014, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
Jaketit
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About to install IRO longarms

Well, I finally saved up enough dollar bills to order the IRO 6.5 critical path front long arm kit. I'm currently running RC basic 4" kit with 2" pucks on top and I've been running it for a year now. As it sits now I have only a small bump steer into DW on a really gnarly bump going 50ish. So I'm my mind I'm thinking this isn't that bad. (Actually thinking it's coming from a slightly loose steering box). Of course the kit came without a bag or two of hardware so now I have to wait around for a couple more days. So as I wait, my mind starts to wander on how long this will take to install, am I gonna get it done in time to get it aligned and drive the kids to school on Monday. Biting my nails. Lol. But my real concern will be is it going to ride so much better, like EVERYONE says long arms do. I also hope I don't have any other bump steer issues worse than it is now. I guess I'm kinda looking for some advise on this lift from people on here that are running it. Believe me I searched the webs for days on IROs kit but there isn't much but a few images, a couple lame videos and a mostly bashing the Clayton argument into my head. Thanks for reading.

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post #2 of 84 Old 02-12-2014, 06:01 PM
skain8
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The install shouldn't take too long. Obviously, have a sharp drill bit for the bracket install, and liberally apply antiseize to all threads.

Unfortunately, long arms won't solve your bumpsteer problem. You will likely find the ride more forgiving due to softened angles, but long arms aren't a cure-all like many make them out to be. In other words, if you have poor geometry on short arms leading to subpar handling (i.e. bumpsteer, etc.), you will have that same poor geometry with long arms.

If you're not changing ride height, there really is no reason to get an alignment. Nothing will change in terms of toe just by swapping links.

Good luck.

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post #3 of 84 Old 02-12-2014, 08:15 PM
FailWheelDrive
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If you're just doin the front long arms it probably won't take you very long. The install is pretty straight forward.

Get an angle finder (if you don't already have one) to set the castor/pinion angle.

My IRO long arms came with spring retainers that required a tap (forget the size) but they were really easy to install.
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post #4 of 84 Old 02-12-2014, 09:13 PM
WJ_allday04
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I dont mean to thread jack but I'm looking into iro long arms but their install instructions are weird. do you totally remove both UCA's or do they go back on or does the driver side y arm replace the UCA's which would mean only one UCA would be setup unless I'm missing something.

2004 WJ 4.7 - 7in lift
Rustys Long Arms//Rustys f+r springs//Rustys crossmember
CSL RLCA//Poly D30 bushings//IRO A arm
Skyjacker Nitro's//JKS trackbar//242HD+IRO SYE

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post #5 of 84 Old 02-12-2014, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ_allday04 View Post
I dont mean to thread jack but I'm looking into iro long arms but their install instructions are weird. do you totally remove both UCA's or do they go back on or does the driver side y arm replace the UCA's which would mean only one UCA would be setup unless I'm missing something.
The iron y replaces both uppers.
It's just the way IRO decided to do it. Definitely weird.
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post #6 of 84 Old 02-12-2014, 10:37 PM
Hack
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Tie some dental floss to your frame inserts before pushing them in. Makes it much easier to fish them into position once they are up inside the unibody.
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post #7 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 05:42 AM
mikeyc1821
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I have brand new everthing in the front and have still had issues with bump steer DW . My buddies did the long arm and he has old tired front end and has had zero issues at all... now this is at 4 inches... I'm sure 6.5 is still going to cause a slight bump steer... but it will be a lot better then your short arms for sure
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post #8 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyc1821 View Post
I have brand new everthing in the front and have still had issues with bump steer DW . My buddies did the long arm and he has old tired front end and has had zero issues at all... now this is at 4 inches... I'm sure 6.5 is still going to cause a slight bump steer... but it will be a lot better then your short arms for sure
No. Bumpsteer is solely a geometry issue. Nothing to do with long or short arms.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #9 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 06:49 AM
fast540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyc1821
I have brand new everthing in the front and have still had issues with bump steer DW . My buddies did the long arm and he has old tired front end and has had zero issues at all... now this is at 4 inches... I'm sure 6.5 is still going to cause a slight bump steer... but it will be a lot better then your short arms for sure
this "lift height causes bumpsteer" thing has been posted a few times in this thread and like skain said they're unrelated. A common cause for bumpsteer and easiest to cure are having the draglink and trackbar out of parralell. Also question to the op. What are you doing about your steering? Mine was maxed at 4" lift in it's stock config
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post #10 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
Jaketit
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Well first off, thanks to all have responded so far. I think I have my bump steer down to two possible issues. One being my steering box is slightly loose or worn. I've yanked on the drag link and can hear and feel a slight clunk up by the pitman arm. Now the second issue is a noob mistake when I first installed the original RC lift. Against everybody's info on here about installing an adjustable track bar, I used the RC track bar drop bracket with the drop pitman arm. I eventually had to get that bracket welded in because it kept coming loose. Well I eventually bought an adjustable track bar and just installed it on the original RC drop bracket. So I think my steering geometry is not right. Here are som pics if the way my steering looks. Please feel free to laugh at this set up

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And from what I keep hearing the track bar and drag link should be absolutely parallel. And they aren't quite
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post #11 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
Jaketit
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And that water line at the O2 sensor passenger side is still there from getting stuck about 6 months ago. Hehe
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post #12 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 09:19 AM
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Dude your bumpstops are in upside down.
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post #13 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
Jaketit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddyWJ
Dude your bumpstops are in upside down.
. Well I guess it's I good thing I've never needed them. Lol
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post #14 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
Jaketit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hack
Tie some dental floss to your frame inserts before pushing them in. Makes it much easier to fish them into position once they are up inside the unibody.
. Those inserts were among the missing parts I didn't receive. Thanks for the tip.
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post #15 of 84 Old 02-13-2014, 12:06 PM
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You can't really tell anything by those pictures. I don't like that trackback drop bracket, even welded in place.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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