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Unread 12-29-2011, 08:37 PM   #1
lucer105
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Columbia, Missouri
Posts: 61
About to change valve cover gasket, need your advice

2002 GC Laredo sport, 4.0L I6

About to change valve cover gasket next week, I am going to get the fel-pro one. Several questions before I get started.

1. Do I need to disconnect anything? (battery? any other hose? wires?)

2. What kind of scrape I should use to remove the existing gasket? Plastic or Metal?

3. Do I need silicone all over the contact surface between the cover and the gasket?

4. Can I reuse cylinder head bolts?

5. Do I need to extremely careful when I tighten up the bolts, do they have to be exactly tightened to a specific degree?

Any suggestions? and experience?

Thanks~

And, at last, is this useful guide?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f802d824b

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Unread 12-29-2011, 08:49 PM   #2
jfazio5188
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: warwick, rhode island
Posts: 70
1. I usually always disconnect the neg battery cable for any job. Other then that you may need to move a few vacuum hoses and/or plugs. Just be sure to label everything so it goes back together easily.

2. You never really want to scrap a machined surface, but if its on there real good use plastic.

3. DEFINITELY use RTV if you are scraping the surface. Clean the surface on the head real good then spread it evenly with your finger around the head surface.

4. You shouldn't need to touch the head bolts...? The valve cover has its own bolts.

5. Yes you have to be careful when tightening the bolts. If you snap any of them your in for an annoying day. Torque them all down to 85 INCH pounds.

That guide is to remove a cylinder head. My answers are to change a valve cover gasket. Did you mean head gasket?
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Unread 12-29-2011, 09:13 PM   #3
lucer105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfazio5188 View Post
1. I usually always disconnect the neg battery cable for any job. Other then that you may need to move a few vacuum hoses and/or plugs. Just be sure to label everything so it goes back together easily.

2. You never really want to scrap a machined surface, but if its on there real good use plastic.

3. DEFINITELY use RTV if you are scraping the surface. Clean the surface on the head real good then spread it evenly with your finger around the head surface.

4. You shouldn't need to touch the head bolts...? The valve cover has its own bolts.

errr, meant to say valve cover bolts. Thanks

5. Yes you have to be careful when tightening the bolts. If you snap any of them your in for an annoying day. Torque them all down to 85 INCH pounds.

I need to tighten them up several times, right?


That guide is to remove a cylinder head. My answers are to change a valve cover gasket. Did you mean head gasket?
I did not pay attention.... and when I read that, I was thinking why a gasket is so complicated?....LOL

Thank you~
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Unread 12-29-2011, 09:35 PM   #4
98jgc
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I was worried about disconnecting the cables that run across. I pinched the clips so that I could move them out and around somewhat but did not have to disconnect. If you do it that way tolerances are tight maneuvering the cover on / off but very doable. Resist the temptation to clean any sludge, because if disturbed it may get into the pan and clog the oil pump pick up. My head was very clean except for some sludge around piston #4. I hit it carefully with a few q tips. To get the back bolts you will be laying on top of the engine face down - at this point you will say damn I should have left it alone. Then again I am only 5' 8.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 09:44 PM   #5
jfazio5188
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Some people recommend tightening them to the torque specs, then backing them out half a turn, then torquing them again, but with the bolts only needing 85 inch pounds you shouldn't need to do that. I would get a torque wrench to make it a lot easier.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 10:26 PM   #6
Cirruslydakota
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1. Do I need to disconnect anything? (battery? any other hose? wires?)

Battery cables. Throttle, TV, and Cruise control too.

2. What kind of scrape I should use to remove the existing gasket? Plastic or Metal?

Unless someone used RTV you wont need any kind of scraper. Use a rag and paint thinner/brake clean and wipe down the gasket surface on the head. If you feel its not clean enough grab some scotch-brite to clean your surfaces.

3. Do I need silicone all over the contact surface between the cover and the gasket?

No, unless either surface has been gouged by scraping you dont need to use any type of sealer. The fel-pro part is the mopar part (the're Mopars gasket supplier for OEM). When you pull it out of the box note the mopar P/N stamnped into the metal cross bar in the front. This faces up and forward.

4. Can I reuse cylinder head bolts?

Im assuming you mean the valve cover bolts so yes. You can reuse them. (for the future you shouldnt reuse the cylinder head bolts.)

5. Do I need to extremely careful when I tighten up the bolts, do they have to be exactly tightened to a specific degree?

Yes 85 in-lbs (INCHES!), if you dont have an inch pound torque wrench then go out and buy 1/4" one. Itll come in handy in many places where a 3/8 one is simply too big. If you can find a 1/4 drive it makes for a much easier time when it comes to torqueing the rear bolts. Youll also find a deep socket and 3" extension both in 1/4 drive handy here.

Any suggestions? and experience?

Torque from the center out in a criss-cross pattern or circular clockwise pattern keeping it even all the way out to the edges. I did mine in two stages first at 40, then up to 85. After a few heating/cooling cycles of the engine recheck your torque. While youre doing this job go ahead and replace the CCV valves and grommets. Trust me, do it now and you wont be doing this job again later. Also, on a piece of paper draw a crude diagram of the cover and mark where all the different bolts go along with which locations have studs and the location of the ground strap stud. Didnt draw one and you already took it all apart? No biggie, I have a crude diagram for reference. Message me if you need it. Heres a good write up with P/N for all the CCV parts. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/
valve.jpg  
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Apollo - 2008 Mazdaspeed3 - Mazdaspeed CAI, Mazdaspeed CBE, Prosport boost gauge.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 11:13 PM   #7
lucer105
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Location: Columbia, Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirruslydakota View Post
1. Do I need to disconnect anything? (battery? any other hose? wires?)

Battery cables. Throttle, TV, and Cruise control too.

2. What kind of scrape I should use to remove the existing gasket? Plastic or Metal?

Unless someone used RTV you wont need any kind of scraper. Use a rag and paint thinner/brake clean and wipe down the gasket surface on the head. If you feel its not clean enough grab some scotch-brite to clean your surfaces.

3. Do I need silicone all over the contact surface between the cover and the gasket?

No, unless either surface has been gouged by scraping you dont need to use any type of sealer. The fel-pro part is the mopar part (the're Mopars gasket supplier for OEM). When you pull it out of the box note the mopar P/N stamnped into the metal cross bar in the front. This faces up and forward.

4. Can I reuse cylinder head bolts?

Im assuming you mean the valve cover bolts so yes. You can reuse them. (for the future you shouldnt reuse the cylinder head bolts.)

5. Do I need to extremely careful when I tighten up the bolts, do they have to be exactly tightened to a specific degree?

Yes 85 in-lbs (INCHES!), if you dont have an inch pound torque wrench then go out and buy 1/4" one. Itll come in handy in many places where a 3/8 one is simply too big. If you can find a 1/4 drive it makes for a much easier time when it comes to torqueing the rear bolts. Youll also find a deep socket and 3" extension both in 1/4 drive handy here.

Any suggestions? and experience?

Torque from the center out in a criss-cross pattern or circular clockwise pattern keeping it even all the way out to the edges. I did mine in two stages first at 40, then up to 85. After a few heating/cooling cycles of the engine recheck your torque. While youre doing this job go ahead and replace the CCV valves and grommets. Trust me, do it now and you wont be doing this job again later. Also, on a piece of paper draw a crude diagram of the cover and mark where all the different bolts go along with which locations have studs and the location of the ground strap stud. Didnt draw one and you already took it all apart? No biggie, I have a crude diagram for reference. Message me if you need it. Heres a good write up with P/N for all the CCV parts. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/

OMG, it is really detailed! Thank you~

I will do that on Saturday, my mechanic said it will take me two days to do the clean, I really want to challenge that.

Thanks again!
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Unread 12-29-2011, 11:24 PM   #8
Cirruslydakota
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Location: Towson, Maryland
Posts: 1,800
I do what I can. Your mechanic is a sissy, of course having a wash tank at your disposal makes cleanup a snap.
untitled.jpg  
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Bear - 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo - 250,000 Miles, BDS 2" lift, Overland rock rails, Dynomax cat back exhaust, 245/75/16 Kumho KL78's, Rebuilt 4.0 @ 244,000 miles.
Apollo - 2008 Mazdaspeed3 - Mazdaspeed CAI, Mazdaspeed CBE, Prosport boost gauge.
Velvet - 2005 Ford Focus ST - Wife's ride
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Unread 12-29-2011, 11:27 PM   #9
malibubts
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 591
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirruslydakota View Post
1. Do I need to disconnect anything? (battery? any other hose? wires?)

Battery cables. Throttle, TV, and Cruise control too.

2. What kind of scrape I should use to remove the existing gasket? Plastic or Metal?

Unless someone used RTV you wont need any kind of scraper. Use a rag and paint thinner/brake clean and wipe down the gasket surface on the head. If you feel its not clean enough grab some scotch-brite to clean your surfaces.

3. Do I need silicone all over the contact surface between the cover and the gasket?

No, unless either surface has been gouged by scraping you dont need to use any type of sealer. The fel-pro part is the mopar part (the're Mopars gasket supplier for OEM). When you pull it out of the box note the mopar P/N stamnped into the metal cross bar in the front. This faces up and forward.

4. Can I reuse cylinder head bolts?

Im assuming you mean the valve cover bolts so yes. You can reuse them. (for the future you shouldnt reuse the cylinder head bolts.)

5. Do I need to extremely careful when I tighten up the bolts, do they have to be exactly tightened to a specific degree?

Yes 85 in-lbs (INCHES!), if you dont have an inch pound torque wrench then go out and buy 1/4" one. Itll come in handy in many places where a 3/8 one is simply too big. If you can find a 1/4 drive it makes for a much easier time when it comes to torqueing the rear bolts. Youll also find a deep socket and 3" extension both in 1/4 drive handy here.

Any suggestions? and experience?

Torque from the center out in a criss-cross pattern or circular clockwise pattern keeping it even all the way out to the edges. I did mine in two stages first at 40, then up to 85. After a few heating/cooling cycles of the engine recheck your torque. While youre doing this job go ahead and replace the CCV valves and grommets. Trust me, do it now and you wont be doing this job again later. Also, on a piece of paper draw a crude diagram of the cover and mark where all the different bolts go along with which locations have studs and the location of the ground strap stud. Didnt draw one and you already took it all apart? No biggie, I have a crude diagram for reference. Message me if you need it. Heres a good write up with P/N for all the CCV parts. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/
I was going to post everything he said down to the CCV Valve replacement. So a big old x2!
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Unread 01-01-2012, 12:17 AM   #10
lucer105
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Columbia, Missouri
Posts: 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirruslydakota View Post
1. Do I need to disconnect anything? (battery? any other hose? wires?)

Battery cables. Throttle, TV, and Cruise control too.

2. What kind of scrape I should use to remove the existing gasket? Plastic or Metal?

Unless someone used RTV you wont need any kind of scraper. Use a rag and paint thinner/brake clean and wipe down the gasket surface on the head. If you feel its not clean enough grab some scotch-brite to clean your surfaces.

3. Do I need silicone all over the contact surface between the cover and the gasket?

No, unless either surface has been gouged by scraping you dont need to use any type of sealer. The fel-pro part is the mopar part (the're Mopars gasket supplier for OEM). When you pull it out of the box note the mopar P/N stamnped into the metal cross bar in the front. This faces up and forward.

4. Can I reuse cylinder head bolts?

Im assuming you mean the valve cover bolts so yes. You can reuse them. (for the future you shouldnt reuse the cylinder head bolts.)

5. Do I need to extremely careful when I tighten up the bolts, do they have to be exactly tightened to a specific degree?

Yes 85 in-lbs (INCHES!), if you dont have an inch pound torque wrench then go out and buy 1/4" one. Itll come in handy in many places where a 3/8 one is simply too big. If you can find a 1/4 drive it makes for a much easier time when it comes to torqueing the rear bolts. Youll also find a deep socket and 3" extension both in 1/4 drive handy here.

Any suggestions? and experience?

Torque from the center out in a criss-cross pattern or circular clockwise pattern keeping it even all the way out to the edges. I did mine in two stages first at 40, then up to 85. After a few heating/cooling cycles of the engine recheck your torque. While youre doing this job go ahead and replace the CCV valves and grommets. Trust me, do it now and you wont be doing this job again later. Also, on a piece of paper draw a crude diagram of the cover and mark where all the different bolts go along with which locations have studs and the location of the ground strap stud. Didnt draw one and you already took it all apart? No biggie, I have a crude diagram for reference. Message me if you need it. Heres a good write up with P/N for all the CCV parts. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/


Okay, thank you again~ I changed both CCV valves and the valve cover gasket. The cover is pretty clean, to my surprise. But I do screwed up a little bit.....

I only screw the very inside bolt tight, but not specifically 85 inch pound, since the torque wrench is too big.....

I also broken the first bolt(count from the passenger location to the bumper, and left if you face the jeep).....

I am wondering will that be problematic? I will get a new bolt for that tomorrow....It was the first time using a torque wrench, not familiar with the click sound....
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Unread 05-07-2013, 06:59 AM   #11
MiniCwik
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 7
Rectifying an old post, there is a mentioned diagram of the valve cover bolts does this happen to include the location of the standard head bolts versus those with protruding threads on top?

I am putting a rebuilt 4.0 in and the shop that built it removed the valve cover before I could get a reference of where the bolts went.

Thank you
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