99 WJ Blown Engine. Engine swap advice? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 04-02-2013, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
mcrogers
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1999 WJ 
 
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99 WJ Blown Engine. Engine swap advice?

Hi I have a 99 WJ with a straight 6 4.0 motor. The engine blew a rod about 3 weeks ago and after searching I have finally found a cheap motor on Craigslist. I want to do the swap myself but am in need of a little advice or any tips from someone with a little more experience. I've never done an engine swap before but am mechanically inclined. Most of my questions are about the best way to disconnect the tyranny from the engine.

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post #2 of 15 Old 04-02-2013, 10:43 AM
jpat30
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1 bolt at a time......no just kidding. Make sure that you label all of your connectors so that you can easily remember where they attach. Place a jack under the trans so that it will be held up when the engine is removed. Other than that, it is a fairly straight forward process.
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-02-2013, 11:25 AM
rlordjr
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You wrote:
"disconnect the tyranny from the engine"
Hopefully when his 2nd term ends we'll elect someone less tyrannical who will let the engine of democracy flourish again.
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-02-2013, 12:12 PM
ratmonkey
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Remember, you can only use engines from 99-2004 grand cherokees and 2001-2006 wranglers.

Most plugs can only go one place, label the fuel injector plugs though.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #5 of 15 Old 04-02-2013, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
mcrogers
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Thanks. The engine I found is out of a 99 so everything is exactly the same.

What's the best method when taking out the bolts from the torque converter and flywheel? Should I take off all the engine mounts and lift the engine a little bit or just take out the bolts well the engine is still in the mounts?
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-02-2013, 02:34 PM
ratmonkey
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take the bolts out of the converter before you disconnect any mounts. don't leave the converter on the engine as it will damage the converter during removal. just use a socket on the crank to rotate the motor to the next converter bolt in line.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #7 of 15 Old 04-02-2013, 04:08 PM
drrm123
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You can loosen 8 bolts on crossmember that hold up trans and transfer case. To lower engine with jack in a angle to be able to acces upper 2 engine mount bolts. You can remove drive shaft also depending on how much room you want. Raise back up and replace bolts in cross member after top 2 bolts are removed. Remove inspection plate on front of trans 3 bolts holding on, then you can remove torque convertor bolts 1 at a time. Rotate engine from crank bolt. If you have a digital camera or camera phone take as many pictures of engine, bolt locations and wiring plugs & connectors.

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6 cylinder Selectrac
$2400 installed new radiator 1 window regulator 2 oxygen sensors
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post #8 of 15 Old 04-02-2013, 05:43 PM
car5car
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Hold on, don't buy engine yet, what exactly happened to your engine? "Blew a rod"? Connecting rod is broken? Is there hole in block? 99% of replaced engines could be repaired. It costs $100 to repair crankshaft (welding journal). Connecting rod is about $20.

01 XJ 2wd 4.0
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-03-2013, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
mcrogers
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Is there anything I should replace on the engine well it's out?
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post #10 of 15 Old 04-03-2013, 08:10 PM
Bluefish94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlordjr
You wrote:
"disconnect the tyranny from the engine"
Hopefully when his 2nd term ends we'll elect someone less tyrannical who will let the engine of democracy flourish again.
Amen

Anyway I just had mine done and did the radiator, mounts, thermostat, hoses, belt ect.
Anything that was removed or more accessible with the motor out was changed. The last thing I wanted was in two months to have to pull the radiator to replace when it was already out once.

Sent from my ECM
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post #11 of 15 Old 04-04-2013, 02:17 AM
99WJ539918
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You can also just use a prybar on the flexplate starter teeth to rotate the torque convertor bolts. Once the engine is out might as well replace everything you can afford. I would, at least, replace radiator, water pump, hoses, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gasket, head gasket, exhaust/intake manifold gasket, oil pump, and spark plugs. If money allows, I would replace the lifters as well. To make some of the money back you can sell your old head, valve cover, if the block isn't damaged you can sell that, too. Good luck.
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post #12 of 15 Old 10-23-2013, 03:01 AM
amremt408
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any update? i find myself in a similar situation currently

5.9 ZJ... 4.5" Rubicon Express short arms. Bridgetone REVO 2's... 265/75/16.

2004 WJ... OME HD coils, Bilsteins shocks, JKS adj track bar, MOOG SS, ADDCO rear sway bar with ext., Bridgestone REVO 265/70/17.
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post #13 of 15 Old 10-24-2013, 09:38 PM
Riley/MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
Remember, you can only use engines from 99-2004 grand cherokees and 2001-2006 wranglers.

Most plugs can only go one place, label the fuel injector plugs though.
Why is this? If I just go with a short block is this still the case? I ask because I have the opportunity to buy a 99 WJ that supposedly has a bad engine, but the body looks okay. I have a 93 XJ with just over 100K on the engine. Can anyone confirm that I cannot put my engine in this Jeep for me?

Thanks

~Riley
><>
TMA MN State Rep
http://www.traditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.com
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post #14 of 15 Old 10-24-2013, 10:32 PM
Cirruslydakota
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Engine block casting bosses are different and the cylinder head on WJ's use a coil rail. The previous 0630 heads don't have the bosses cast to mount it.

Bear - 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
Apollo - 2008 Mazdaspeed3
Vivienne - 2015 Chrysler 200S
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post #15 of 15 Old 10-25-2013, 07:16 AM
Riley/MN
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Thanks.

~Riley
><>
TMA MN State Rep
http://www.traditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.com
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