6.5 inch IRO lift questions and opinions - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
golfinWJ
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Wj 6.5 inch IRO lift questions and opinions

Hello everyone. Long time website stalker here, been using this site to help fix or diagnose some problems I've had with my jeep. I am considering purchasing the 6.5 inch iro long arm lift (front long arm only) and am wondering what all I will need when purchasing. I will most likely being getting the adjustable rears LCA's, adjustable trackbar, and the adjustable long arms because I've heard its better to have everything adjustable when lifting a WJ. Just wondering if I am missing anything else, especially anything that will prevent the dreaded Death Wobble. Also....all opinions of the lift would be appreciated, likes/dislikes or pros and cons of the lift. By the way I have an '04 WJ 4.0l with selectrack(or however you spell it) and my jeep is my daily driver at the moment.

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post #2 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 07:42 PM
skain8
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What size tire do you intend to run?

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #3 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
golfinWJ
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Looking to run somewhere around a 32inch tire, most likely a 265/75/16 since its the daily driver for now.
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post #4 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 08:15 PM
MuddyWJ
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You don't need a lift that high for those tires. 3 or 4" would do just fine. Are you planning on doing some hard core wheeling or light trails?
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post #5 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 08:18 PM
skain8
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Oh, geez.

A 6.5" lifted WJ is a terrible daily driver.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #6 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
golfinWJ
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I know I don't technically "need" that high of a lift at the moment but I would rather go big now rather that later. I would like to spend the money now rather than spend more later down the road up grading to a larger size. Plus I like of look of the 6.5 inch better than a 4 inch
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post #7 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 08:29 PM
skain8
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Good luck to you, sir. You will fit in well here.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #8 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skain8 View Post
Oh, geez.

A 6.5" lifted WJ is a terrible daily driver.

My 6.5" lifted WJ is a daily driver and my wife and I swap out driving it instead of our 2012 Explorer they both drive nice.
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1999 Laredo WJ - 4.0L, 6.5" IronRockOffRoad CP lift, 33X10.50X17 BFG MudTerrrains on 2011 JK Wheels w/1.5" spacers,TomWoods front ds,Kevins Dual SS setup,Rusty's adj. trackbar and drop Pitman Arm,RB-1 Nav with in motion hack and Steering wheel controls,10 Disc CD changer,Overland Gauge Cluster,Leather Power Seats,WAAG Brush Guard front and rear w/factory frt tow hooks,WAAG Rear Taillight guards,ROLA Roof Rack,KC OffRoad lights,PEAK Backup camera,Carbon Fiber Dash Trim
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post #9 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
golfinWJ
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I know a 6.5 inch lifted WJ is possible...and looks good while doing it I just wanted to make sure I am getting the right parts to make it happen. Especially when it comes to keeping the death wobble away, I would like to not have to fight that monster if possible. Are long arm lifts more/less prone to the wobble than other lifts?
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post #10 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 08:38 PM
skain8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SENECA View Post

My 6.5" lifted WJ is a daily driver and my wife and I swap out driving it instead of our 2012 Explorer they both drive nice.
Let me guess, drives better than stock too, right?

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #11 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 09:24 PM
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I have a 4" IRO long arm lift and am running 285/70/17's and like others said there is no need to go to 6.5. I had to trim the bumpers a bit. Unless your willing to tinker with her for a year or so and spend lots of money on upgraded other stuff like driveshafts, slip yoke eliminator ect, stick with a 4 inch. I wheel mine fairly hard and it takes me where I want to go.

03 Limited 4.7 4" IRO Long arm rear 4.5" custom radius arm front Currie Fab 9" hp front
247-231 swap BFG TA KO 315/70/17 Black Rock 909 Type D wheels 17x8 5x5 and 5.5 bolt pattern 4.5" backspace
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post #12 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 10:47 PM
SENECA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skain8 View Post
Let me guess, drives better than stock too, right?
It is a little firmer over bumps and such but loads of fun to drive and worth every bit of ride loss in the amount of acolades it gets driving down the road.

1999 Laredo WJ - 4.0L, 6.5" IronRockOffRoad CP lift, 33X10.50X17 BFG MudTerrrains on 2011 JK Wheels w/1.5" spacers,TomWoods front ds,Kevins Dual SS setup,Rusty's adj. trackbar and drop Pitman Arm,RB-1 Nav with in motion hack and Steering wheel controls,10 Disc CD changer,Overland Gauge Cluster,Leather Power Seats,WAAG Brush Guard front and rear w/factory frt tow hooks,WAAG Rear Taillight guards,ROLA Roof Rack,KC OffRoad lights,PEAK Backup camera,Carbon Fiber Dash Trim
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post #13 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 11:50 PM
texlurch
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If you want to daily drive it, get the Addco rear swaybar. For a more dedicated wheeler, leave the stocker on there for better flex.

The higher you go, the harder it is to get the front axle just right to have good alignment and no driveline vibes. Unless you want to cut and weld the inner C's you'll always be on the edge of not enough caster or driveshaft vibes.

I added the larger front bar as I had the base one and it helps immensly with body roll. Your 04 should have the larger, solid bar already.

I have no problem at all jumping in and driving mine anywhere, so yes it can be a daily driver.

So far as tire size, even at 6.5 I still need to trim the bumper to allow full articulation and steering, with 265/75-16 tires.
Wheel offset will play a big part as well.
Keep in mind anything larger than a 33 and you'll be looking at re-gearing to get the driveability back (especially with a 4.0, and assuming you have 3.73 gears already).

Just another old fart in a Jeep... watchout younguns!!!
RC LA, IRO 6 in springs, OTK, Bilsteins, Aussie, Eaton, RCV's, 242-SYE, hidden winch, JCR Stage 3, skidded and trussed & sleeved
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post #14 of 27 Old 08-18-2013, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
golfinWJ
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I know I have to get a new drive shaft already. Probably going to swing by the junk yard and get one like I've heard many others do on here. Is the slip yoke eliminator "needed" right away or can it wait? And as far as wheels go I'm probably going with Cragar wheels, D-windows, 16x8's, 4in bs

texlurch- can you explain a little more about the "The higher you go, the harder it is to get the front axle just right to have good alignment and no driveline vibes. Unless you want to cut and weld the inner C's you'll always be on the edge of not enough caster or driveshaft vibes."
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post #15 of 27 Old 08-18-2013, 06:25 AM
texlurch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfinWJ View Post
I know I have to get a new drive shaft already. Probably going to swing by the junk yard and get one like I've heard many others do on here. Is the slip yoke eliminator "needed" right away or can it wait? And as far as wheels go I'm probably going with Cragar wheels, D-windows, 16x8's, 4in bs

texlurch- can you explain a little more about the "The higher you go, the harder it is to get the front axle just right to have good alignment and no driveline vibes. Unless you want to cut and weld the inner C's you'll always be on the edge of not enough caster or driveshaft vibes."
Most lifts at 4 in and up drop the T-case down to help the angles in the rear, so if you are only mild wheeling you're fine with the stock shaft. But, that also increases the angle on the front shaft, which is where the issues always seem to come from.

So far as the caster versus pinion angles.. the inner C's are fixed. You have very minor caster changes you can do with offset u-joints.

At some point you end up where you have to choose:
A: decent caster angle (2-4 deg)
B: decent pinion angle (1-2 deg)

To get rid of driveline vibes the pinion has to be pointing straight at the driveshaft, i.e. zero degree pinion angle

Problem is, the higher you go, the more you have to roll the pinion up, which kills your caster since you are rolling your inner C forward.

Some have gone to double/double cardan fronts, but that doesn't always fix it.

The "correct" fix is to set your pinion perfect, then cut and roll your inner C back to get the caster you want, and re-weld.

Just another old fart in a Jeep... watchout younguns!!!
RC LA, IRO 6 in springs, OTK, Bilsteins, Aussie, Eaton, RCV's, 242-SYE, hidden winch, JCR Stage 3, skidded and trussed & sleeved
Colorado Jeep Club Member #383
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