42re, P1762 and P1763, Governor pressure sensor & Solenoid write-up - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-25-2012, 07:53 PM   #61
autojunkie
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I understand what you are saying, but I as trying to keep it simple while explaining.
I've been doing it this way since I was first taught to do it as a kid back in the 80s and I was trained by professionals. There may be two schools of thought on this, but checking while in Park is absolutely normal. As long as you row through each gear for at least three seconds and have the trans at operating temp before checking.
You can check in Neutral if you like, but when I'm by myself I just use park. All of my automatics that have lasted well over 250K miles, with absolutely zero issues, are proof enough.

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Unread 01-25-2012, 07:59 PM   #62
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So just to add, my method is NOT incorrect, but just different from how you were trained. I have over 25 years f experience with this to prove I'm not wrong and I'm not about to get into a discussion regarding the principals of automatic transmission hydraulics while typing this from my phone.
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Unread 01-25-2012, 08:24 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autojunkie
So just to add, my method is NOT incorrect, but just different from how you were trained. I have over 25 years f experience with this to prove I'm not wrong and I'm not about to get into a discussion regarding the principals of automatic transmission hydraulics while typing this from my phone.
With some manufacturers you do check in park. Chrysler specifies checking in neutral. Chrysler has specified checking in neutral since these transmission series began life as 904s and A-500s due to the fact that they do not have fluid flow through the converter and related circuits in park.

Believe what you will. I trust the instructions from the guys who designed and built the transmission.
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Unread 03-30-2012, 06:09 PM   #64
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Update, March 30, 2012

Just don't have it in me to post an update with all the links and quotes so, if anyone is having issues.........you have to read the whole thread. I apologize but, I have a whole lot going on. Tossed the P1762 code again a few weeks back and the wife and I have been resetting it to get by. Usually needed it once a day and I had the upgraded "Doghouse" stuff installed. Made an appointment with our local legend, that I call Mr Wizard. Accounting degree but, his thing is vehicles. He can smell crap out but, he used some wild wireless scanners to troubleshoot mine and had them running when he road tested mine. He added a ground somewhere that he said was probably unneeded but, he is methodical. He also relocated a harness that could have been rubbing and causing an issue.

His cost was a meager $70 which, I consider decent. He is a little strange but, he advised me to replace the aftermarket parts with OEM if, I had the code again. Popped the code again on Wednesday and I replaced the doghouse stuff tonite with oem parts. I'll see what happens next.
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Unread 05-07-2012, 08:38 PM   #65
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Five weeks later and after replacing the "Doghouse" upgraded parts with the OEM parts.......we are still trouble free. HTH
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Unread 06-10-2012, 05:00 PM   #66
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im planning on doing this in the next week to my friends 04, i found this video answered a couple questions i was wondering about like how the sensor is held in, so im posting it in case someone wanted a visual

http://youtu.be/kvl-_-vY6rk
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Unread 06-12-2012, 07:36 PM   #67
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First of all thanks to everyone who posted in this thread. I just finished taking my WJ for a smooth shifting drive before washing the ATF out of my hair.

I wanted to update this thread because my symptoms where a bit different then others who have had this problem. I had no weird shifting problems or a check engine light before I left work last Tuesday. I had just left the parking lot when the transmission shifted out of first but instead of second gear it shifted into neutral. Pulled over and as soon as I slowed down I had forward gear again, pulled out again thinking that was weird and the same thing happened. Pulled over again I had 1st gear and reverse, and as soon as the tranny should shift into 2nd it instead went into neurtral. I limped to a nearby pulloff where I checked fluid....everything was fine and still no check engine light. There was a nearby gas station so I headed off again to get there and the problem continued. while sitting in the gas station idling the check engine light finally came on but the Jeep was now shifting normally. I drove home where I checked the code, P1762. I cleared the code but that brought the problem right back. So my Jeep would run fine with the check engine light on but only in 1st after clearing the code.

I replaced the transducer and solenoid this evening with parts from Jeep and now I'm back on the road!!

Thanks again, and I hope maybe my situation will help someone in the future!! Sorry for the book!!
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Unread 06-12-2012, 08:03 PM   #68
kc2mrg
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hmm... all these problems makes me want to change mine and do a little preventative maintenance lol
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2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0
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Rusty's 2.5" coil/shock lift
265/70/16 (~31") General Grabber AT2's
custom painted silverblade wheels
Flowmaster 40 series cat-back exhaust
MOPAR transfer case skid plate
Superchips 3875 Flashpaq

2004 BMW 325i Sedan
164,000+ miles


"my project"
factory sport package
5-speed manual
plasti-dipped wheels and wood trim

1997 BMW 328i Sedan
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H&R OE sport springs
Bilstein sport struts/shocks
Eibach sway bar kit


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Unread 06-12-2012, 08:29 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2mrg View Post
hmm... all these problems makes me want to change mine and do a little preventative maintenance lol
Probably not a bad idea!! The first thing I did after getting the code was come here and do a search. I found lots of threads but nothing really fitting my symptoms (I think I read this thread 5 times last night). I went by my local transmission shop yesterday to talk to them thinking they'd have experienced this before. The guy was quick to dismiss the governor transducer/sensor and started throwing large #'s around while saying things like "rebuild" (he said my symptoms didn't match). I read more threads last night and first thing this morning called my local guru, and he agreed with me. His theory was that my car without the light on was getting no signal from the transducer/sensor, and after it finally through the code it went into a pre-programmed default setting which is why it shifted normal on my drive home. I can't tell you whether that is what happened but it seems like an accurate assessment in my case. I'm just glad I didn't tow the car to the transmission shop this morning like originally planned , I've changed the fluid and filter in this Jeep every 30k miles and it was that fact that convinced me that it wasn't an internal mechanical failure.

Preventive maintenance, is a very good idea, If you haven't replaced these parts go ahead and pick them up for the next time you pull the pan to change the fluid and filter. I made it 129k miles on my original parts!!
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Unread 06-13-2012, 10:44 AM   #70
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well as far as im aware im on my original ones at 152k and i dont think the fluid/filter has been changed, but the fluid looks really clean, and i was gonna service it soon, but i read all this so i might as well spend the extra money and replace them, where did you get your parts? id prefer to stay away from ebay stuff on this one, and jeep wants like $150-180? for both, i cant remember what they quoted me the other day, but i dont want the after-market over-sized one people suggested on here, i mean, its just a 4.0 it doesnt have that much power lol
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2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0
174,000+ miles


Rusty's 2.5" coil/shock lift
265/70/16 (~31") General Grabber AT2's
custom painted silverblade wheels
Flowmaster 40 series cat-back exhaust
MOPAR transfer case skid plate
Superchips 3875 Flashpaq

2004 BMW 325i Sedan
164,000+ miles


"my project"
factory sport package
5-speed manual
plasti-dipped wheels and wood trim

1997 BMW 328i Sedan
236,000+ miles


H&R OE sport springs
Bilstein sport struts/shocks
Eibach sway bar kit


West Virginia Jeep Club member
JEEPINWV.COM
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Unread 06-13-2012, 02:27 PM   #71
moberg12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2mrg View Post
well as far as im aware im on my original ones at 152k and i dont think the fluid/filter has been changed, but the fluid looks really clean, and i was gonna service it soon, but i read all this so i might as well spend the extra money and replace them, where did you get your parts? id prefer to stay away from ebay stuff on this one, and jeep wants like $150-180? for both, i cant remember what they quoted me the other day, but i dont want the after-market over-sized one people suggested on here, i mean, its just a 4.0 it doesnt have that much power lol
I got the parts at my local dealership. Transducer, Solenoid, gasket, filter, and I think the total was $220 plus tax.

List price for these parts when I called were:
Transducer: $92.10
Solenoid: $118
Filter: $22.75
Gasket: $18.20

I asked for the best deal possible when checking out and the guy knocked the price of each part down a bit no questions asked. Whether my dealer was high or low I feel it was a reasonable price to have the parts instantly, no waiting on the UPS guy.

The Jeep Gasket is worth the money, man that thing was impressive.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 05:42 PM   #72
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I'm 10 wks into this and still no "codes" thrown. The dealer parts cost me $157 and that didn't include the gasket and filter. No need for a new gasket, the '04s have that stamped into the tranny pans. I buy the aftermarket filters and they come with a new gasket but, I have reused our oem gasket every time without issue.

I just wish that I hadn't tried to bypass dealer parts on the first go round for the solenoid and switch. I would have been $100 ahead.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 09:07 PM   #73
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yea and i read that part of your post a while back and thats what had me thinking, and yes i know they say its reusable but IMO no gasket is reusable, im also thinking about replacing the gasket that goes above the alum block the solenoid and sensor go into between the block and the valve body, or w/e it bolts too
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Rusty's 2.5" coil/shock lift
265/70/16 (~31") General Grabber AT2's
custom painted silverblade wheels
Flowmaster 40 series cat-back exhaust
MOPAR transfer case skid plate
Superchips 3875 Flashpaq

2004 BMW 325i Sedan
164,000+ miles


"my project"
factory sport package
5-speed manual
plasti-dipped wheels and wood trim

1997 BMW 328i Sedan
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H&R OE sport springs
Bilstein sport struts/shocks
Eibach sway bar kit


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Unread 06-14-2012, 05:21 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2mrg View Post
yea and i read that part of your post a while back and thats what had me thinking, and yes i know they say its reusable but IMO no gasket is reusable, im also thinking about replacing the gasket that goes above the alum block the solenoid and sensor go into between the block and the valve body, or w/e it bolts too
Gotcha Just a matter of preference on the gaskets and to each their own. I use LubeLockers on my TJ's diffs and 42rle. Also, no issues with them and I've had my front's cover off so many times, due to issues, that it's saved me a ton of RTV and time.

I also had issues with my aftermarket tranny pan drain plug. After the second upgraded one started leaking like a sieve, I removed it and welded the hole closed. Unless, you can have a bung welded in, I'd stay away from that mod. I don't know why a drain plug has worked so well in my 42rle but, not so well in our 42re.
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Unread 07-03-2012, 03:41 PM   #75
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I'll be doing this on my ZJ as soon as the parts come in from Ebay. (hopefully by the weekend) I just got back from AAMCO and was quoted $2100.00 to Start! I couldn't help but laugh myself out of the place. They ran diagnostics for free and it gave code 1757 (Governor Pressure Above 3 psi at 0 MPH). Been having rough shifts between 2-3 gear mostly when the jeep is cold. I figure i can't go wrong spending the $125.00 on changing the Solenoid and Sensor. I'll let ya know how i make out!
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