42re, P1762 and P1763, Governor pressure sensor & Solenoid write-up - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-04-2012, 07:42 PM   #46
dnovack2007
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I thought u should check it in nutrel not park?

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Unread 01-06-2012, 07:07 PM   #47
autojunkie
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Park and neutral are essentially the same. Just safer to do it in park. The key is rowing through each gear for about three seconds each.
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Unread 01-06-2012, 09:26 PM   #48
windsors03cobra
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Is it worth it to do the Cascade all in one kit on a trans that has no codes but has a lazy/late 2-3 shift the first couple times when after sitting for 6 hours or more ? 203k.
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Unread 01-07-2012, 06:27 AM   #49
nickblack
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I wouldn't with 203k on the clock. Put that money toward a rebuild. You are already about 50k miles past the normal service life of the 42re.
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Unread 01-07-2012, 10:30 AM   #50
RedlegWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windsors03cobra View Post
Is it worth it to do the Cascade all in one kit on a trans that has no codes but has a lazy/late 2-3 shift the first couple times when after sitting for 6 hours or more ? 203k.
I would just start with a filter change.
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Unread 01-08-2012, 09:50 AM   #51
99JeepGrand
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Finished the Job yesterday guys. For those who are reading this thread for the first time. I replaced my Governor Pressure Sensor and Solenoid for my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo; Transmission 42RE. This is definitely a very easy job to do. All in all it took me a little longer than others to do it, a total of about 4 1/2 hours. I followed every step of this post and watching a few youtube videos on this type of job. A couple of things I ran into was, I purchased the wrong filter for my jeep. Autozone looked up the transmission make for my Jeep which was 42RE and their database showed two types of filters. I selected the wrong one. Apparently, the 1999-2000 models use the same filter. So, I exchanged them and got the correct one. I ordered the solenoid and sensor off eBay from a Mopar dealer for $100.00 total (this is the company that makes the original parts for Christler, Jeep, etc). After putting it on everything fit correctly and I replaced the solenoid and sensor. To do this on my type of transmission the entire governor had to be removed because it was a clamp holding the sensor into the governor (which was easy). Some videos I watched they didn't take out the whole governor for some reason. But after installing all new parts and letting the transmission fluid drain, I had to scrape that GOD AWFUL pan gasket. I don't believe its ever been changed on my jeep, because that stuff would barely come off! I did NOT purchase a gasket scraper (which I highly recommend ) so I used what I had. I used an Ice scraper (plastic), flat-head screw driver, and swiss army knife. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANY OF THESE!! B/C IT COULD DAMAGE THE PAN AND CAUSE LEAKING! This is what took up the bulk of my time. After installing a the new gasket ( NOT the one thats folded in the box with the filter, I ordered one from O'Reily's for about $6) and connected the pan back to the tranny I filled it back up with fluid. I used a total of 5 quarts of ATF+4, this is what the manual recommended. Cranked up, let it sit idle for about 10 minutes and then gear switched for about 10 seconds each. Drove around a little and then took it to the street and then the interstate for about 5 miles and came back. It drives like a CHAMP NOW
Thanks for the write up and discussion b/c it gave me confidence to do it! Otherwise I wouldn't have known how simple it was to do and would have spent that $450! I saved about $330 doing it myself. Although having an extra person helping me out would not have hurt!

Below is an image of my tranny with the pan off.
photo.jpg  
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Unread 01-08-2012, 09:58 AM   #52
99JeepGrand
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Also, before I started I removed the negative cable from my battery so that it could reset the computer in truck and take off the "service engine soon" light. By the way, I drove it again this morning and checked for leaking (because of my gasket scraping tools) and there was none! I have never even changed my own oil or even replaced a battery on my vehicle! For the first time working on my Jeep I can tell you that it wont be the last time; im gonna save so much money.
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Unread 01-08-2012, 11:08 AM   #53
RedlegWJ
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Congrats.
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Unread 01-08-2012, 11:15 AM   #54
nickblack
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Good for you! You live and learn.
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Unread 01-09-2012, 06:21 AM   #55
autojunkie
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Kickass man! Great job
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Unread 01-09-2012, 06:13 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by autojunkie View Post
kickass man! Great job
x1!!
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Unread 01-09-2012, 06:30 PM   #57
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Update

From December 22..............
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Originally Posted by F9K9 View Post
Not quite 3 months later and the P1762 has reappeared...............I cleared the code and will post up any additional info as I discover it.
The code reappeared within a day. Researched my butt off and I found that this code can be related to O2 sensors and the TPS since they share a common ground. I had replaced her TPS awhile back but, didn't want to rule it out. I carry a new spare TPS in my '03 Rubicon trail kit and I verified that it had the same part # for her '04 WJ. I tossed it on thinking....WTH. Almost 20 days and several hundred miles later, no code. I did toss my older code reader in her heep and showed her how to clear it. It will make the heep perform normally for, at least, one driving cycle and get her to her destination should the code reappear.
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Unread 01-11-2012, 05:39 PM   #58
99JeepGrand
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Thanks for the applause guys, almost a week later and still no "service engine soon" light. It's taking off really fast. No leaks no anything I guess ive done well lol (pats back)
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Unread 01-13-2012, 08:25 AM   #59
autojunkie
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Yes you did! And feel free to pay yourself on the back. For someone who claims to never work on cars, that was actually a pretty huge task you've successfully pulled off.
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Unread 01-25-2012, 07:45 PM   #60
WiLieR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autojunkie View Post
Park and neutral are essentially the same. Just safer to do it in park. The key is rowing through each gear for about three seconds each.
This is incorrect. Look at the fluid flow paths in the FSM and you will discover that Park does NOT provide flow to the torque converter, fluid cooler in the radiator, front clutch assembly, L/U valve nor Lock Up Timing Valve. Add in all this and you can have a difference of a quart or more in the two readings.

Always check at normal operating temperatures. Go through the shift sequence P-R-N-D-2-1 back to N, pausing at each position for a few seconds. Now check the fluid level of the trans. Remember, Overfilling can be just as bad for the trans as being low on fluid.
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