4.7L Head Gasket Replacement Questions - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 07-21-2017, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
jfclk33
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4.7L Head Gasket Replacement Questions

Hey everyone. I'm in the teardown process of my head gasket replacement and I have a few questions.

First, any tips or tricks that will make reassembly easier when it comes to putting the timing chains and gears back in? I've watched multiple YouTube videos, but I'm hoping to hear from some of you that have done this already.

Second, when it comes to removing the harmonic balancer, has anyone used the insert tool that Mopar calls for, or did you just use the rod that comes with a universal puller? Along the same lines, has anyone just threaded the bolt back in most of the way and used that with the puller?

Third, has anyone used aftermarket gaskets instead of Mopar? If so, what is the best choice? Also, what brand did you go with for the timing parts?

That's about it for now, but I'm sure I'll have more as I continue. Thanks in advance for any help, I definitely appreciate it!

2001 GC Limited w/4.7 V8

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post #2 of 21 Old 07-22-2017, 01:21 AM
sdg3205
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The timing chains are quite easy, especially since they come with marked links. My only tip would be to rotate the cams to meet the sprockets, don't try and rotate the sprockets to meet the cam. Use channel locks and have a capable buddy slide the sprocket on while you rotate the cam to place.

Use a GOOD puller. Don't take a chance or you can damage the harmonic balancer. I cheaped out, but got away with it. Wouldn't take that chance again.

I used the Enginetech kit from rock auto. It's a complete rebuild kit with valve seals and every conceivable gasket.
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post #3 of 21 Old 07-23-2017, 06:50 PM
wadewen
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Here's the link from when I did that. Some useful attachments start in post #16. I also threw some notes in at the end on the last post.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...29/index2.html

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post #4 of 21 Old 07-24-2017, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
jfclk33
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Thank you both for the info. Got the heads off yesterday and dropped them off at the machine shop today.

I had an interesting conversation with one of the guys there. He told me that I only needed to have new valve seats pressed in on the intake valves. He based this statement partly on the fact that he's done 4.7 heads that have dropped a valve seat (5 or 6 of them that he recalls) and all of the dropped seats were on the intake valves.

Have any of you ever heard this before? Better yet, does anyone that has had this happen recall whether it was an intake or exhaust valve seat that dropped?

My thought is to have them all done just for the piece of mind, but I'd like to hear what you guys think.

2001 GC Limited w/4.7 V8
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post #5 of 21 Old 07-24-2017, 08:08 PM
wadewen
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I haven't had the valve dropping experience, but when you already have the heads off, it seems like you should just do them all.

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post #6 of 21 Old 07-24-2017, 08:30 PM
sdg3205
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I'd absolutely do them all. He has to pull all the valves to do the grind anyway. I'm also sure the exhaust seats can drop too given their operating conditions.
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post #7 of 21 Old 08-03-2017, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
jfclk33
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We'll, I got the heads back from the machine shop today (BTW, I did have all the valve seats replaced). I'm excited to start putting it back together, although it probably won't be until next weekend, since I have a lot going on this weekend.

I was wondering if any of you bought a universal type wrench to hold the cam gears in place while torquing the bolt down? If so, which one did you get and did it work well? Thanks

2001 GC Limited w/4.7 V8
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post #8 of 21 Old 08-03-2017, 11:06 PM
sdg3205
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Pretty sure channel locks were all we used. What's the torque spec again? 90ft lbs?

We had one channel lock on each cam. So sprockets aligned first and bolts in snug, then get some buddies to hold the channel locks in place while you torque
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post #9 of 21 Old 08-04-2017, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Pretty sure channel locks were all we used. What's the torque spec again? 90ft lbs? We had one channel lock on each cam. So sprockets aligned first and bolts in snug, then get some buddies to hold the channel locks in place while you torque
Me too, but I used vice grips when i did mine. Set them so it takes all your strength to close them so they dont slip on the cam. I was working alone and it worked well.

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post #10 of 21 Old 08-04-2017, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks. That sounds good to me.

2001 GC Limited w/4.7 V8
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post #11 of 21 Old 08-13-2017, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ok everyone, I have another question/problem. I had some serious carbon(?) deposits on the head mounting surface of the block and I've been trying different things to break it up. I finally got rid of most of it, and now I see why it was so difficult.

The picture below shows the worst area of the block and it's pretty bad. This area is not part of the sealing surface, but I'm really concerned that it will cause me problems anyway.

What do you guys think I should do with this (pretty sure I know the answer already)? Also, what would cause that much pitting?



2001 GC Limited w/4.7 V8
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post #12 of 21 Old 08-13-2017, 11:50 PM
sdg3205
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Wow, I've never seen that before. As long as it isn't part of the sealing surface I wouldn't sweat it too much.
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post #13 of 21 Old 08-14-2017, 04:31 AM
Hendrix9
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Mine looked like that, too. Still sealed up good on mine. Really wasn't on the sealing serface.

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post #14 of 21 Old 08-14-2017, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
jfclk33
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Ok, thanks guys. I think I'm going to finish cleaning it up (mostly the other side) and ill be ready to start putting it back together.

Just out of curiosity, anybody change out the freeze plugs while it was a little more open down there.

I was debating on pulling the engine out the rest of the way because the rear main seal (or the front seal on the trans) is leaking. If I pull it, I'll probably do the freeze plugs while I have it out, unless that's one of those things better left alone.

2001 GC Limited w/4.7 V8
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post #15 of 21 Old 08-14-2017, 12:41 PM
sdg3205
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I didn't do the freeze plugs. I assume they're corroded and rusted so firmly in place they've become part of the structural integrity of the block. I've heard only one case where a freeze plug popped out of a 4.7.

If you're going to pull the engine, parts it's worth doing the bottom end.
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